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HISTORIC FAMILIES, 
IRotable people, anb flDemorabilla, 

OF 


TJE3IE Hi IF] 1ST TsT O IXA 


(Tlie Districts embraced in this Volume are LEVEN, LOCHLOMOND, and CARDROSS). 


BY 


DONALD MACLEOD, 

11 

Author of “Poets and Poetry of the Lennox<kc. 


DUMBARTON: 

Printed for the Author by 
A. LAWRANCE, Church Place. 

1891 . 





?a. 







'QLht Jtuthxrr, 

WITH FEELINGS OF DEEPEST RESPECT, 
DEDICATES THIS WORK TO 

©Tllexeir) dei? \ifyl le, Bscj^, 

OF CORDALF, 

WHO BY HIS PEN, HIS VOICE, HIS PURSE, 

AND HIS EXAMPLE, 

HAS DONE WHAT HE COULD TO BRIDGE OVER 
THE YAWNING GULF WHICH SO LONG AND SO DISASTROUSLY 
SEPARATED THE MASSES FROM THE CLASSES OF 
SOCIETY, AND THUS RENDERED GOOD SERVICE 
TO ALL RANKS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN 
WITHIN THE BORDERS OF OUR 
COMMON COUNTRY. 








Cable of Contents. 


Renton, 

Cardross, - 

Alexandria, 

Bonhill, - 

Jamestown, 

Kilmaronock, 

Buchanan, 

Luss, 

Arrochae, - 


Page. 

9 

45 


102 


132 

168 

173 


182 


200 


226 



INDEX. 


A 


C— Continued. 


Auchenvole, David,- - - -35 

Aikens of Dalmoak and Kipperoch, 81 
Alexandria, Village described, - 102 
Alexandria, Church and Church¬ 
yard of,.104 

Allison, Rev. James, - - - 114 

Alexandria, Ewing Gilmour Insti¬ 
tute for Men, - - - 119 

Alexandria, Ewing Gilmour Insti¬ 
tute for Women, - - - 124 

Ashtree, famous, erstwhile of Bon- 
hill Churchyard, - - - 134 

Alstons and Kippens of Westerton 
and Ballagan, - - - 162 

Auclienheglish, Ancient Kirk and 
Kirkyard of, 211 

Arrochar,.226 


B 

Burns, John William, - - 11-67 

Bontines of Ardoch, - - - 57 

Bains of Bainfield, - - - - 64 

Burns’ of Kilmahew and Cumber¬ 
nauld, .65 

Burns, Sir George, Bart., - - 66 

Barrs of Burnfoot, - - - - 82 

Buchanan, Robert, - - - - 90 

Buchanan. Major Walter, - - 95 

Bonhill Parish Cemetery, - - 103 

Brown, John Fleming Cullen, M.D., 

C.M., &e.,.112 

Backer, Father de, - 115 

Brocks of Auclienheglish, - - 128 

Bonhill — Village, Kirk, Manse, 
Hall, and Burying Ground, - 132 

Blair, Robert,. 139 

Buchanans of Boturicli and Ar¬ 
doch, .... 159-161 

Brown, A. J. Dennistoun, - - 161 

Boyd, R.ev. Mr, - - - - 174 

Buchanans of Drumakill and Ross, 176 
Buchanan, Kirk and Parish, - - 182 

Buchanan, Parish Burial Place, - 186 
Buchanans of that Ilk, - - - 190 

Ballyhenan Burial Place, - - 228 


c 

Calico Printing, beginning of, in 
the Vale of Leven, - - 10 

Carman Cattle Market, - - - 43 

Cardross, Village and Kirks and 
Ministers thereof, - . - 45 

Campbells of Co]grain, - . - 80 

Craig, Robert, Sheriff Clerk, • . 99 


Cullen, three generations of Drs, - 111 
Christie, John, - - - 129 

Cam burn, Rev. Martin Luther - 116 
Campbell, R,ev. John, - - - 116 
Collins, Rev. T., - - - 143 

Campbells of Tullicliewan, - - 164 

Cunningham, John of Gartocharn, 180 
Colquhoun, Robert (deer keeper), - 215 
Campbell, Rev. Duncan, Luss, - 217 
Colquhouns of Colquhoun and Luss, 219 
Colquhoun, John, - 222 


D 


Dalquhurn (old) House, - - - 10 

Donaldson, James of Keppocli, - 62 
Dennistouns of Colgrain and Den¬ 
nistoun, .69 

Donalds of Llyleston, - - - 70 
Donald, William MacAlister,- - 70 
Dumbarton, Collegiate Church of,- 149 
Dunlop, Rev. James, - - - 174 
Dewar, Rev. James, M.A., - - 227 

E 

Edmonstones of Cardross Park, - 57 
Ewing, Hugh Moody Robertson, - 64 
Ewing, Sir Archd. Orr, Bart.,- - 145 
Ewings of Strathleven, - - - 162 

Elder, Rev. John R., - - - 239 

F 

Fergusson, Archd., - - - - ill 

Findlays of Boturich, - - .160 

,G 

Geils’ of Ardardan, Ardmore, and 

Geilston,.58 

Geils, Captain John Edward, of 

Dumbuck,. 53 

Guthrie, Lewis, .... 109 
Gilmour, William Ewing, - 116-123 

Gilmour, Mrs W. Ewing, - 120-124 

Gilmour, Allan, of Eaglesham, - 118 
Gildea, Major General, C.B., - - 127 

Gilmour, Allan, & Co., - - - 119 

Gregor, Rev. William, - - - 139 

Garvie, Capt. Archd. Fraser, - - 156 

Galbraith, James, .... isi 
Gildard, Thomas, .... 218 
Gildard, J, E.,.218 


H 

Hildersley, Rev. W. II., . . . ng 
Haldane of Gleneagles, . . -159 








Index— Continued. 


I 

Inch-Calliacli, - 

J 

Jones, E. J., - 

Jamestown, - 
Jubb, Rev. Thomas E., Luss, - 

K 

Kinloch, George, 

Kinloch, Graham, - 
Kidd, Rev. William, 
Kilmaronock, - 
Kilmaronock, The Lands of, - 


- 186 


- 146 

- 168 
- 217 


- 20 
• 20 

- 107 

- 173 

- 175 


L 

Leckie, Dr Alexander, - - - 141 

Lennox, Earls and Dukes of, - - 147 

Lennox, Partition of the, - - 151 

Lindsays of Bonhill, - - - 152 

Lang, Robert,.Ill 

Lumsdens of Arden, - - - 165 

Luss,.200 

Luss Kirk and Kirkyard,- - -203 

Luss, New Church of, - . - 212 

M 

Matheson, John, jr., - - - 14 

Matheson, Brigadier General Sir 
Donald, K.C.B., - 16 

MacLeod, John, - . - - 27 

Mitchell, Dugald, M.B., C.M., - 28 

M'Kellar, Peter, - 36 

Montgomery, Richard, - - - 36 

Maclnnes, John, of Auchenfroe, - 61 
MacBrayne, David, - - - - 91 

Murray, David, M.A., LL.D.,- - 93 

MacIntyre, Major John, - - - 94 

MacIntyre, Donald, C.C., - - 97 

MacLachlan, W. A., M.D., - - 100 

M‘Lean, Donald, - - - 108 

MacLean, Thomas, - - - 109 

MacKinlay, William, - - - 110 

Mushet, James, F.E.I.S., - - 130 

MacFarlane, William, - - - 111 

Martins of Auchendennan, - ' - 166 
MacLean, Bailie. - 156 

Miller, Rev. D. J., - - - - 169 

Mackenzies of Caldarvan, - - 17S 

MacKintosh, Rev. Dr., - - - 183 

MacPhie, Charles, - - - - 1S4 

Montrose Family Burying Place, - 185 
Montrose, Ducal House of, - - 192 

Montrose Holiday Home, - - 194 

MacGregor, Rob Roy, - - - 195 

Maidorven, Dean of Lennox, - - 203 

MacKessog, Saint, - 204 

Michael, Chapel of Saint, - - 205 

MacAuslan, Baroness, - - - 207 

M'Nicol, Duncan, - 219 

MacGregor, James, - - - 219-227 

MacGregor, Donald, - - 219-226 

MlAuslane Family, - - - - 223 

M'Farlane. Rev. Dr, - - - 227 

M‘Nab, John.227 


M—Continued. 


M'Pherson, Alex., - 

- 228 

MacMurrichs of Stuckgown, - 

229-232 

MacFarlanes of that Ilk,- 

- 230 

N 


Napiers of Kilmahew, 

49-157 

Nollies of Ardardan and Ferine 

, . 67 

Nairn, Robert, 

. 136 

o 


Ormidale, Lord, 

. 218 

P 


Pollok, Gilmour & Co., . 

. 117 

R 


Renton, Village and Churches and 

Ministers of, 

29-40 


Renton, Recent improvements in,. 41 
Renton, Victoria Institute, . . 42 

Renton, Miss Cecilia, . . .44 

Rouets of Auchendennan-Rhie, . 156 


. 9 

. 11 
and Cor 
12, 25, 42, 43 
. 13 


Smollett, Tobias, 

Spreulls of Dalquliurn, 

Stirlings of Dalquliurn 
dale, . 

Stirling, James, 

Smith, Alexander, 

Scott. George, . 

Smollett, P. B., 

Snodgrass, Allan, 

Smollett, Alexander, of Bonhill, 
Smolletts of Bonhill, 

Smollett Mausoleum 
Smith, Rev. J. Cromarty, M.A. 
B.D., 

Sutherland, Rev. William, 
Stewart, Arthur & Co., . 

Scott, Robert, , 

Simpson, Rev. William, . 

Smith. Rev. William, 

Stewart, Sir John, of Darnley, 
Stuart, Rev. John, D.D., F.R.S 


37 
37 
42 
85 

105 
105-153 

106 


113 

114 
27 

141 

142 
144 
159 
206 


Turnbulls, Place of Bonhill, . . 25 

Thomson, Captain W. B., . . 98 
Turnbull & Arthur,. . . .26 


V/ 

Wylie, Alex., . . .20, 40, 41, 42 


Wylie, John,.21 

Wylie, Hugh.22 

Wylie, Mrs Alex., . . . 24-63 

Wylie, Miss,.24 

Watson, Jean (Mrs Moore), . . 56 

Watson, Robert Boog, . . .89 

Watson, Arthur & Co., . . .26 

Walker,' John, . . . , .208 

Walker, Mary,.209 

Y 

Yuile, John of Darleitli,. . 49 













•Entrcluutortt. 


Most Courteous Reader, “ I greit you weil,” and bespeak a 
kindly welcome at your hands for this new-born offspring of my 
brain. 

It is fourteen years since, when in my tenth lustrum, I essayed 
my first flight in the domain of letters. Since that period, I have 
given to the world nine volumes, all of which were—with two 
exceptions—devoted to the setting forth of Dumbartonshire 
subjects. Not the least successful of the series was the work 
termed the “ God’s Acres of Dumbarton.” This present volume, 
while in part running on similar lines with the book just men¬ 
tioned, yet in the main diverges considerably from it, inasmuch 
as the new aspirant for public favour embraces a greater variety 
of themes than its forerunner did, and treats of the living as well 
as of the dead. 

I have in this work honestly endeavoured so to set forth my 
matter as to make it attractive not only to those connected with 
the Yale of Leven, Lochlomond, and Cardross, but to many 
people outwith these localities. Time will show whether I have 
hit or fallen short of the mark aimed it. 

In the preparation of the book for the press, I own my 
indebtedness for assistance to Sir James Colquhoun, of Colquhoun 
and Luss, Bart. ; Miss Colquhoun, Edinburgh; Mr Thomas 
Gildard, Glasgow ; Mr John MacLeod, Renton ; Rev. Wm. 
Simpson, Bonhill ; Rev. Dr Mackintosh, Buchanan ; Mr Robert 
Craig, Sheriff-Clerk of Dumbartonshire ; and other gentlemen. 
I have also obtained for the work information of considerable 
importance from Irving’s invaluable “History of Dumbartonshire,” 
and from other sources. 

Having made these acknowledgements, I return most hearty 
thanks to those named above—and to those unnamed—for the 
kindly services rendered so willingly by them to their obliged 
servant, 

Donald MacLeod. 

Balclutha Lodge, 

Dumbarton. 




HISTORIC FAMILIES , NOTABLE PEOPLE, AND MEMORABILIA, 

OF 

LEVEN, L0CHL0M0ND, AND CARDROSS, 


Chapter £. 

RENTON. 

intelligent reader of anything concerning Kenton in a general 
& way—such as this notice of it is—hut has before his mind’s 
eye Tobias Smollett, the greatest man in the domain of literature 
Dumbartonshire has ever produced. In more than one of my 
former works somewhat lengthened notices of him were given, so 
I will not now go into matters of detail regarding his history. I 
will merely say that in the south end of the village, opposite the 
Public School, a monument of the Tuscan order of architecture 
stands, which was erected to his memory by his cousin, the laird 
of Bonhill. In his latter days the historian almost lacked bread* 
but after his demise he had this goodly stone given as a propiti¬ 
atory sacrifice to his manes. Thus not infrequently are the earth s 
great ones treated—neglected when living; adored when dead. 














































10 


RENTON’. 


The site of the old house of Balquhurn, in which Tobias 
Smollett was born in 1721, is embraced within the bounds of a 
field at the south end of the village, overlooking the Leven. 
Balquhurn House was a three-storey, gaunt, prosaic building, of 
a severely plain style of architecture Its northren front showed 
unadorned walls, pierced with three oblong windows in each flat. 
It had a one-storey wing at its west end, the whole being sur¬ 
rounded by a low wall. The old mansion house stood on a com¬ 
manding knoll, which dominated the river at one of its most 
beauteous links. Its northern windows commanded a fine view 
cf the Leven Valley, and from its southern ones prospects of the 
castle and town of Bumbarton, and their beautifully diversified 
surroundings, could be obtained, so that while the “auld hoose ” 
was in itself unlovely, its position was most attractive. There are 
people still living who remember the stones of this interesting 
building, in which the immortal “Toby ” was cradled, being carted 
away to fence the neighbouring fields. To such base uses did they 
come at last. The foundation stones of the old edifice were du" 
out two or three years ago, and a sand pit now marks the place 
where a great genius was born, whose reputation stands firm on 
the rock of public esteem. 

Six years after the birth of Tobias Smollett, the erstwhile 
pastoral valley of the Leven was invaded by the manufacturing 
tribe, who have altered its character almost entirely from north 
to south, converting it into a congeries of smoky, populous, pros¬ 
perous manufacturing villages, the great seat in Scotland of the 
Turkey-red dyeing and calico printing industries. But that 
transformation has not entirely defaced the scene. Between 
Balquhurn and Cordale, and Bonhill and Balloch, there still re¬ 
mains much of the beauty of which of old time Tobias Smollett 
wrote in his imperishable “ Ode to Leven Water.” Before the 
old house of Balquhurn was razed, an educationist lived in one or 


RENTON. 


11 


two of the more habitable of its apartments, and in that classic 
spot “ taught the young idea how to shoot.” 

Of old time, the house in which Tobias Smollett was born, and 
the estate attached to it, belonged to the ancient and distinguished 

family of the 

SPREULLS OF DALQUHURN. 

Duncan, Earl of Lennox, in a charter dated at Balloch 12th 
February, 1421, granted the lands of Dalchurne to Walter Spreull 
and the heirs male of his body. Fifteen different instruments of 
sasine, from that date down to 1621, confirm the family in the 
estate. In 1645 a charter was granted of the lands by the Com¬ 
missioners of the Duke of Lennox to Mr Archibald Dennistoun 
(son-in-law of James Spreull), heir apparent of John Dennistoun 
of Dalchurne, upon the resignation of the latter, 

On 30th July, 1669, it is on record that Archibald Dennistoun 
made a resignation of the lands of Dalchurne in favour of Mr 
Thomas Fleming, merchant, burgess of Dumbarton, and his son 
Charles, in fee, with reservation of the lands of Over and Nether 
Cordells in favour of John Semple of Fulwood. Charles Fleming, 
in 1692, sold Dalquhurn estate to Sir James Smollett of Bonhill, 
in the hands of whose decendants it still remains. 

After holding the estate of Dalquhurn for two hundred and 
seventy-one years, the Spreulls ceased to have a landed interest 
in the parish of Cardross. However, the family is still substan¬ 
tially represented within its borders by a descendant in the 
female line in the person of John William Burns, of Kilmahew 
and Cumbernauld—whose ancestor, Walter Spreull, was Senes¬ 
chal of the Lennox in the days of Wallace. Of a verity, the 
laird of Kilmahew is “ of auld and honourable descent,” and 
as far as that goes—and in many other respects—may “ cock his 
beaver ” with the best in the county. 

Renton has been peculiarly blessed in having in its midst 


RENTON. 


1 ° 
i «N 

as residenters, for a long period of time in succession, leading men 
and women of a superior type. The old 

STIRLINGS OF DALQUIIURN AND CORDALE 

were men of mark, who left their impress on it for good, and their 
long and honourable connection with the place, which they may 
be said to have made, is well worth recording. 

In 1727 the feu of Nether-Cordale was conveyed to Walter 
Stirling and Archibald Buchanan, as trustees for the Dalquhurn 
bleaching Company. In 1770 the lands of Upper Cordale were 
feued from Campbell of Stonefield, and a “print field” was 
erected thereon, and business begun therein by William Stirling 
in co-partnery with his three sons—Andrew, John, and James—• 
under the title, William Stirling & Sons. William. Stirling died 
at the age of sixty-seven several years after he settled in the 
Leven Valley, leaving three sons : Andrew of Drumpellier, John 
of Tullichewan, and James of Stair; and two daughters, one 
of whom—Elizabeth—was mother of Sir William Hamilton, the 
eminent scholar and philosopher, and Thomas Hamilton, author 
of “ Cyril Thornton,” one of the very best novels extant, full as it 
is of a healthy, natural sensationalism, and vivid descriptions of 
scenes at home and abroad during the Napoleonic wars. The 
other daughter, Agnes, was the mother of Andrew and Dugald 
John Bannatyne, eminent men in their time. 

The sons, after old Mr Stirling’s death, carried on the business 
energetically. In 1791, their relative conveyed to them the feu 
and works of Dalquhurn, thus enabling them to further extend 
their operations. Andrew, the eldest of the brothers, withdrew 
from the concern in 1792, and ultimately John Stirling of Tullich¬ 
ewan became sole partner, and on his decease the works passed 
into the hands of his sons, William and George, handsome men 
whom I well remember. George, who was born in 1783, died in 
1848. He married his cousin Anna, daughter of James Stirling of 


RENTON. 


13 


Stair, and left an only daughter, who married Colonel Roth. 
The other brother, William, born 1780, married Margaret Hamil¬ 
ton, daughter of James Ritchie of Craigton and Busby, and by 
her had sixteen children. William Stirling died 1847. His 
son, John, was killed in India while leading an assault, and a 
monument was erected by his brother officers, to his memory, in 
the nave of Glasgow Cathedral. The second son, 

JAMES STIRLING, 

as the resident partner, occupied Cordale House in succession to 
his uncle George, and for a time efficiently discharged the duties 
appertaining to his position ; but that position proving irksome, 
and for the purpose of indulging in more congenial pursuits, he 
retired from the firm in 1854, along with his brother Charles, 
leaving their brother William sole partner. James Stirling was 
chairman of the Monkland Canal. In politics he was a keen 
disciple of the old W hig school. Mr Stirling had fine literary 
tastes, and a trenchant style of writing. In 185G he paid a visit 
to the United States of America ; and upon his return home, he 
published a work embodying his experiences, styled, “ Letters 
from the Slave States,” which created a considerable sensation. 
In 1859 he wrote, “ Failure of the Forbes-Mackenzie Act,” a 
small pamphlet of a plain, outspoken nature, which was well 
received by a section of the community. But in spite of his 
pronouncement, the Forbes-Mackenzie Act has been no failure. 
He (James Stirling) wrote too soon after the event to give a calm, 
unprejudiced, enlightened judgment on the subject. In 1865 
he gave to the world, in book form, “ Practical Considerations on 
Banks and Bank Management.” This work, like all its prede¬ 
cessors from the same source, was written in a clear, vigorous, 
cultured style. In 1865 he contested with Patrick Boyle 
Smollett of Bonhill for the representation of Dumbartonshire in 
the British House of Commons. Both candidates had seemingly 


14 


RENTON 


received an equal amount of support at the poll, hut on a scrutiny, 
Mr Smollett was declared duly elected by one vote. 

When James Stirling removed from Cordale House, he took up 
his residence at Rockend House, Helensburgh, where he passed 
quietly away at the ripe age of 78. He was survived by three 
brothers--Charles, Richard, and William—the latter of whom 
died about two years ago. (He was the great grandson of William 
Stirling primus, of date 1770.) He severed his connection with 
the old firm in 187G, leaving the business in the hands of his sole 
co-partner, 


JOHN MATIIESON, JUNK., 

of Cordale, who worthily stepped into the shoes of the old 
Stirlings, and marched onward in their footsteps, blessing and 
being blessed. Besides having business capacities of a high order, 
he had literary acquirements of no mean description. In 1870 he . 
published a handsome volume entitled “ England to Delhi,’’ which 
was w T ell received by the public. His status in musical and 
scientific ranks was high. To the regret of all who knew him, he 
was suddenly called hence in 1878. On 4th June, 1879, a 
memorial bust of Mr Matlieson, Junr., was presented, by the sub¬ 
scribers, to the Corporation of Glasgow—Lord Provost Collins in 
the chair. Sir Peter Coats, in making the presentation, said :— 
It was felt that a valuable life had departed, and it has occurred 
to some of us that the public estimate of Ins excellent abilities 
and his many admirable virtues should have some definite and 
enduring expression. We have therefore to ask your Lordship, 
as representing the city, to accept of this bust of our deceased and 
much lamented friend, with the view of having it placed in the 
Corporation Galleries, among the memorials of other honoured 
citizens.” It may be stated that the bust was executed by the late 
George E, Ewing, of Glasgow, and is considered a meritorious 
work* 


RKNTON. 


15 


The following verses, penned by Mr Matheson, junr, fully 
thirty years ago, are well worth giving here. They are entitled— 

CONCERNING THEM WHICH ARE ASLEEP. 

Shadows o'er the evening falling, 

o o 7 

Softly gather, gently creep, 

Where, silent till the trumpet’s calling, 

Lie those that sleep ; 

For there the earth, with bosom swelling, 

Guardeth love’s treasures in the deep, 

And calm and hallowed is the dwelling 
Of them that sleep. 

Sunbeams from the morning flowing ! 

Downward from the mountains leap, 

And linger with their brightest glowing 
O’er those that sleep : 

For, folding them in sheen of glory, 

A seemly vigil there ye keep ! 

So bright and shining is the story 
Of them that sleep. 

Hearts that know not how to falter ! 

Eyes that cannot choose but weep ! 

Hold fast your priesthood at the altar 
Of them that sleep ! 

For life is but a stinted measure, 

Swift to the goal the moments sweep ; 

Beyond ye have a laid up treasure 
In them that sleep. 

Sowers in the vale of sadness ! 

Halcyon harvests shall ye reap— 

Yet glean on earth some fruit of gladness 
In them that sleep ; 

For, from beyond Heaven’s star-built portals, 

Blazoned on the midnight steep, 

Responsive love is shed on mortals 
From them that sleep, 


16 


RENTON. 


BRIGADIER GENERAL SIR DONALD MATHESON, K.C.B. 

This distinguished man is the son of the late John Matheson, 
Esq., of the firm of John Matheson & Co., Turkey-Red Dyers and 
Calico Printers, Glasgow ; of which city he is a native. His 
early commercial training was acquired when engaged with Messrs 
Reed it Dennistoun, a foreign commission house in Glasgow. At 
a later period he established and conducted, simultaneously, the 
businesses of Donald Matheson tfc Co., Dyers ; and Matheson & 
Alston, East India Merchants ; both being carried on in Glasgow. 
When, in 1878, the death occurred of Mr John Matheson, junior, 
the sole-surviving partner of the old-established house of William 
Stirling A: Sons, Colonel Matheson formed a partnership by whom 
that business was acquired, with its extensive dyeing and calico 
printing works in Dumbartonshire. He is, however, not so 
familiarly known to the majority of my readers as a captain of 
industry as he is as a most successful Volunteer Engineer Officer; 
and to that feature in his life, the following notice will be devoted 
principally. The matter embraced in it has in great measure 
been obtained from the Volunteer Record , of date April 2nd, 1887. 
Although Sir Donald is now in command of the Senior Engineer 
Corps north of the Border, he took his first degrees in the 1st 
Lanark Artillery, joining that regiment at the end of 1859, when 
No. 6 Company was formed, he being one of the first officers 
posted to it, and he was one of those presented to Her Majesty 
at the Levee in St. James’ Palace, in March, I860. So assiduously 
did he devote himself to acquiring a knowledge of artillery work, 
that when, in the summer of 1860, a tenth company was raised, 
the members being mainly composed by men from among the 
employees of the firm of Messrs Walker, Birrell & Co., Lieutenant 
Matheson was selected for its Captaincy. Up to this time the 
1st Lanark Artillery had been without the services of an Adjutant. 
However, in July, 1860,it became necessary to make arrangements, 
in view of the forthcoming Royal Review, to fill the vacant 


RENTON. 


17 


appointment. Colonel Morrison, who then commanded the corps, 
made Captain Matheson Acting-Adjutant (it may be mentioned 
that he had some time previously qualified for the duties he was 
called upon to perform by gaining a certificate of competence to 
superintend gun practice). This post he held with great credit to 
himself and advantage to the service until an officer of the Royal 
Artillery was appointed, some twelve months later. As Acting- 
Adjutant he carried out his duties with that rare ability which 
has distinguished him throughout his various services as a Volun- 
teer, and won for him the distinction of a Companionship of the 
Bath, bestowed on him by the Queen 20 years later. Towards 
the close of 1860 he, in company with a brother officer, acted as 
a deputation from his corps to the War Office, in favour of a 
gentleman whose services they were anxious to secure as perma¬ 
nent Adjutant. In 1863, when the 1st Lanark Engineers were 
consolidated, and field officers were appointed ; Captain Matheson 
was invited, in view of his well-earned popularity as an officer in 
the sister branch, to accept the commission of Major. Two years 
after, on the retirement of Colonel Johnstone to honorary rank, 
Major Matheson became Lieutenant-Colonel, his commission 
being dated 25th November, 1865, and he has held the appoint¬ 
ment to the present time. He has therefore entered on the 
twenty-second year of his command, and is, in virtue of 
his long service, the senior Lieutenant-Colonel of Volunteers 
in the West of Scotland. His services as a Volunteer 
Officer are by no means confined to the performance of his duties 
in connection with his own corps, for he has on several occasions 
acted as Aide-de-Camp and Brigade Major in the various field 
days of the Scottish Volunteers. Moreover, his reputation as an 
Engineer is almost as great south of the Tweed as in his native 
city. Ten years ago he had the distinction of being appointed 
to the command of the first Engineer A olunteer encampment, 
which was held at Upnor, near Chatham, when about 600 men 


18 


KENTON. 


and 35 officers were, for purposes of instruction, drawn to¬ 
gether from all the Engineer Corps of the kingdom. He also 
commanded the Engineer Volunteer camp formed at Chatham in 
the following year, to take part in the great siege operations of 
that season. At the conclusions of these operations Colonel 
Matheson was highly complimented on the manner in which lie 
had carried out the duties of his command : a hasty redoubt, 
capable of affording shelter to 1500 men and two guns, which had 
been constructed by the Volunteer Engineers alone, under his 
command, elicited the warmest encomiums from the inspecting 
officers. As regards the 1 st Lanark Engineers, it maintains a 
high and yearly increasing efficiency under Col. Matheson. Every 
year a strong detachment from the corps proceeds to Chatham 
and undergoes a fortnight’s practical training in engineering. 
The value and quality of the work performed by them has raised 
them very considerably in the estimation of the Military Engine¬ 
ering Authorities ; while the Submarine Company, which was 
formed in connection with the corps some time since, has per¬ 
formed duties of a most valuable kind. This special company, 
which was raised in 1886, under Captain Black, numbers 60 
men, who averaged 50 drills, has to perform an amount of work 
which is much greater than that done by the ordinary engineer, 
and every man is bound bv the terms of his engagement to go 
through a course of training, extending over 14 days, every year. 
The defensive works at Fort Matilda, near Gourock, will prove of 
the greatest possible benefit to this company for training purposes. 
It may be mentioned that the men of the special company are 
paid 5s per day when out for training, and that the Capitation 
Grant earned by them is £5 per man. Colonel Matheson may 
be congratulated on having this smart and efficient company 
attached to his battalion. 

For many years Lanarkshire stood alone among Scottish 
counties as regards the possession of an Engineer Volunteer Corps 


KENTON. 


19 


—such other corps as were formed during the earlier days of the 
movement, having died out—and it was not till 1878 that 
Aberdeen followed in the wake of Lanark, and established a 
scientific corps. The last return shows the condition of the 1st 
L.E.V. to be as follows :—enrolled strength, G4G ; efficients, 613 ; 
proficients, 65 ; passed in tatics, 9 ; increase from last year, 32. 
In 1881 the Queen created Colonel Matheson a Companion of the 
Bath (Civil Division), and in 1885 he was advanced to full 
Colonel. In virtue of this promotion he ranks as Colonel, and 
Lieutenant-Colonel commanding his corps. 

On the occasion of the Queen’s Jubilee, Her Majesty decided 
that among the honours then bestowed only one K.C.B. should be 
conferred upon the auxiliary forces of her Empire, and the 
Secretary of State for War selected Colonel Matheson, C.B., as 
the recipient of that distinguished honour. 

Sir Donald’s position is, at present, Justice of the Peace and 
Deputy Lieutenant for the County of Lanark ; Colonel Command¬ 
ing the Lanarkshire Volunteer Royal Engineers ; Hon. Command¬ 
ant of the Clyde Division Submarine Miners Royal Engineers ; 
Brigadier General commanding the Clyde Brigade Infantry 
Volunteers—which comprises the Infantry Volunteers of Dum¬ 
bartonshire, Argyllshire, Ayrshire, and Renfrewshire. 

He still retains his partnership interest in the old and honour¬ 
able firm of William Stirling & Sons, Turkey-Red Dyers and 
Printers, Dalquhurn and Cordale, Vale of Leven. Sir Donald’s 
town house is 6 Park Terrace. Glasgow; and his country residence 
is at Bourtreeliill, Ayrshire. 

The Brigadier General has never been married ; his widowed 
sister, Mrs. George Coats, and he live together. 

I now go on to give a biographical sketch of the resident partner 
of the firm of William Stirling & Sons, who has been an unmixed 
blessing to the village of Renton and district. 


20 


flENTON. 


ALEXANDER WYLIE OF CORDATE. 

This widely-known Vale of Leven man’s family on both sides 
have been long and intimately connected with the dyeing and 
calico printing industries, both of his grandfathers having been 
men of mark in the calico printing world in the latter part of 
the past and in the earlier part of the present century, and noted 
for their public spirit and benevolence. 

Mr Wylie’s maternal grandfather, Mr George Kinloch (whose 
father settled in Dumbartonshire, near Helensburgh, about the 
middle of last century), was one of tw o or three leading men who, 
in 1786, built the first seceding church in the Vale of Leven, 
which still exists, and is now known as the Renton Levenside 
Free Church, the interesting history of which you will find in one 
or more of the pages of this work further on. 

Mr Wylie’s uncle-—Mr Graham Kinloch—built the Ferryfield 
Print Work, Alexandria, in company with Mr William Guthrie ; 
and there for many years the firm of Guthrie, Kinloch ct Com¬ 
pany carried on a successful business. 

Mr Graham Kinloch established the first bank in Alexandria. 
It was a branch of the Clydesdale, and had its habitation in the 
Ferry Loan, now called, after the monetary establishment, Bank 
Street. 

He was Chairman of the company which first brought gravita¬ 
tion water into the village; and he took a leading part in all the 
social and religious movements in the Ahde of Leven. 

Mr Wylie’s father—Mr John AVylie—was of a long-lived 
Ayrshire race (his father having lived to eighty-seven, and his 
grandfather to one hundred and five years of age), who for 
several generations possessed a comfortable competency, and gave 
many admirable members to society. 

Mr John Wylie was trained at Campsie, under his own father, 
to colour making and calico printing, and here also he acquired 
a knowledge of what is called “the old process,” from Mr A, 


KENTON. 


21 


M‘Bean, one of the famous old turkey red dyers, who had been 
formerly with the Stirlings, and afterwards with the Monteiths. 

Mr John Wylie went to Lancashire for the purpose of increas¬ 
ing his technical knowledge, and from thence came to the Vale of 
Leven, to the works of Messrs John Ovr Ewing & Co., Croften- 
gea, now known in its greatly enlarged state as “ Alexandria 
Turkey-red Print and Dye Works.’’ 

Mr John Wylie was a man of the most unswerving integrity 
and uprightness, and possessed of a very modest, retiring, and 
amiable disposition ; and from the time he came to the district 
until his lamented death in 1880, in his 81st year—a period of 
about five-and-forty years—he endeared himself to the people of 
the Vale of Leven by his unostentatious benevolence and kindly 
dealings. 

When in Lancashire, he acquired a knowledge of what is 
termed “the new process” of turkey red dyeing, and in 1843 
he enou<md, for what was then and still continues to be the 
very enterprising and go-nhead firm of Messrs John Orr Ewing & 
Co., two practical workmen (the brothers Holland), who in con¬ 
junction with himself, successfully wrought out and introduced 
this process to the Vale of Leven, upon which a large portion of 
its prosperity has since rested. It not only enables tuikey led 
dyeing to be carried on in the winter as well as the summer (to 
which the old process had been restricted), but it secures a 
brilliancy of colour unequalled by any other process j et in\ented , 
and the Vale of Leven is now the only district in which it is 
extensively prosecuted. 

Whilst in Croftengea, Sir Archd. Orr Ewing, Bart., as a mere 
lad came to join the works of his brother, by whom he was at first 
placed with Mr Wylie to be initiated into the mysteries of colour 
making and calico printing. The mutual kindly feelings which then 
began between teacher and pupil continued until Mr Wylie’s death. 

In 1845, when Sir Archibald Orr Ewing resolved to start 


00 


RENTON. 


business on his own account, Mr John Wylie left the older firm 
and removed to Levenbank Works, which Sir Archibald had 
acquired, and which Mr Wylie had the satisfaction of seeing 
grow up from small dimensions to be one of the most extensive 
and best managed print and dye works in the kingdom. 

In this prosperous concern Alexander Wylie, now of Cordale, 
when sixteen years of age, began to learn colour making and 
calico printing under his father’s watchful eye, and in that position 
he remained for several years, until he mastered these crafts, and 
then he entered Glasgow University as a student. When he left 
the University he joined the town department of Sir Archibald 
Orr Ewing & Co.’s business, which, under its energetic and able 
head, had become the largest and most successful turkey red 
dyeing concern in the world. 

In 1874 Mr Wylie transferred his services to Messrs William 
Stirling & Sons, and on the death of Mr John Matheson, junr. 
(with whom he was just going into partnership), in 1878, he formed 
a co-partnery, which bought the business, and ever since he has con¬ 
tinued to be the resident partner of the firm, which now holds an 
even better position in the turkey red dyeing and calico printing 
world than it has done in the past. 

Quite recently, his brother, Mr Hugh Wylie, has been assumed 
as a partner. 

Mr Wylie, although most attentive to business, has never 
allowed himself to be entirely absorbed by it. In the domain of 
letters, he has contributed to Meliora , Fraser's Magazine , 
The Scottish Church, and other magazines. In 1884 he wrote 
a work on “ Labour, Leisure, and Luxury,” which was pub¬ 
lished by Longmans, of London, and was commended by almost 
the whole press of the country as one of the ablest treatises on our 
great social questions. A popular edition of the work has sine* 
been published. 

Mr Wylie is a Director of the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce, 



RENTON. 


23 


He is also a J.P. for the County of Dumbarton, and has taken 
a most active interest in all matters relating to its welfare, both 
in the committees of*the old Commissioners of Supply and in 
those of the new County Council. 

He has taken a deep concern in educational matters, having 
been a member of Cardross School Board for twelve years, and 
its chairman for the last six. While taking this interest in the 
development of the minds of the children and youths of the parish, 
he has not been unmindful of their physical development. He is 
a great advocate of muscular Christianity, and, believing strongly 
in a sound mind being furnished with a sound body through which 
to work out its behests, he takes a lively interest in athletics. 
The famous Benton football team, for two or three years cham¬ 
pions of the world, came under Mr Wylie’s fostering care when 
mere lads, and into these he infused a spirit of fair play that bore 
precious fruit. 

Mr Alexander Wylie’s nature is a many-sided one, and his tastes 
and sympathies are wide. He takes a particular pleasure in 
attending ploughing matches and cattle shows, and is well up in 
agricultural matters in general. Those who follow the plough 
have in him a good friend. 

Inheriting the benevolent instincts of his forefathers, and follow¬ 
ing in their footsteps, he strives to act like a father to those in his 
employment, so as to improve their material and moral condition 
as much as lies in his power—and in that noble work he has not 
laboured in vain. 

Though encroaching enormously on his business time, and even 
more so on his hours of leisure, the doors of Cordale House are 
ever open to the widow, the fatherless, and all the deserving 
poor of Renton ; to the office-bearers of all kinds of societies 
and associations ; to all who are interested in the improvement and 
amusement of the people, and to all others who seek his assistance 

and advice. 


24 


RENTON. 


In 1880, Mr Alexander Wylie married Miss Mylrea, daughter of 
P.Mylrea,Esq.,of Waterloo, Liverpool, a lady who entered enthusi¬ 
astically into all her husband’s benevolent Schemes. In the year 
1883—when this most estimable lady had been withdrawn by the 
hand of Death from the activities of life, amid the deep, heartfelt 
regrets of the whole community—the good work carried on by her 
so energetically for the spiritual and temporal elevation of the 
villagers of Renton was taken vigorously up by her sister-in-law, 
Miss Wylie of Cordale, who had had large practice in the carrying 
on of such agencies in Jamestown, where her pious labours were 
as eminently successful as they are in her new field of operations. 

Since Mr Wylie, thirteen years ago, became resident partner of 
the firm of Messrs William Stirling & Sons, the works have been 
much improved and enlarged ; and, greatly by his aid and judici¬ 
ous guidance, the village of Renton has undergone a wondrous 
transformation. Its entire aspect is changed for the better. It 
has a commodious Public Hall, a useful and ornamental Victoria 
Institute, it has been well drained, and has acquired an abundant 
supply of purest gravitation water, and in other directions has 
made marked progress. 

Mr Wylie has been recently selected by the Unionist party 
in Dumbartonshire as their candidate in the next contest for 
the representation of the county in the House of Commons. 
His suitability for that exalted position can hardly be challenged. 
While he is no advocate for despoiling any section of the com¬ 
munity, yet his sympathies are with the masses. He has written 
on their behalf, and for their interests he has spent much time and 
money, preferring such labour to selfish, inglorious ease. Where 
he is best known, he is beloved the best. In Mr Wylie we have 
the type of man this world sorely needs, to steer it through a sea 
of troubles into a desired haven of rest, peace, and prosperity. 


HENTCK, 


0 fj 
0j t J 

Another of the old manufacturing firms of Renton which is 
now and always has been held in the highest esteem, is that of 

TIIE TURNBULLS, PLACE OF B0NHILL, 

which has been connected with the Yale of Leven for over a 
century. This family belonged originally to Bedrule, in Rox¬ 
burghshire, but left it and settled in Lanarkshire, where they 
were long tacksmen of Blantyre farm. Family tradition says 
that they held that position for over two hundred years ; and 
this is to a certain extent corroborated by an old document in the 
possession of the Scots of Blantyre farm, dated 1G54, which shows 
that James Turnbull was at that date tenant or tacksman or the 
farm. John Turnbull, a grandson of the James Turnbull men¬ 
tioned in the document, was born at Blantyre farm in 1710. 
He, with his son John, removed to Govan in 1750, where they 
carried on business as wood merchants, becoming afterwards 
calico printers at Dawsholm. While there, they became connected 
with William Stirling & Sons, who were then also printers at 
Dawsholm, and from an indenture in the possession of A . S. 
Turnbull, Place of Bonhill, it appears that his great grandfather 
engaged with the Stirlings in 1773, to take charge of the Cordale 
works, which they had recently started. John Turnbull, sen., 
with his son, became partners in William Stirling & Sons’ firm 
in 1790 ; the son retiring from the firm in 1805, and the father 
in 1809, receiving, as part re-payment of their capital, the works 
of Croftengea, then occupied by the Stirlings. 

Those works were carried on by Turnbull dr Jones as a bleach- 
work, and afterwards by S. Turnbull, Arthurs & Co., as a Turkey- 
red dye-work, the first of the kind in the Yale of Leven. In 
1840, they sold the work to Mr John Orr Ewing, and it is now 
carried on by his firm of John Orr Ewing & Co. In, 1790, John 
Turnbull, jun., had become a partner in Arthurs, Neale & Co., 
who had their works at Pollockshaws, Charles MTntosh was 


26 


RENTON. 


also a partner in the concern, and he it was who afterwards, with 
Dr Couper and Charles Tennent, sen., started the St. Rollox 
works. 

About the beginning of the century, the firm became Turnbull 
& Ramsay. (Mr Ramsay was the father of the present Sir 
Andrew Ramsay, the geologist.) In 1806, the firm purchased the 
old mill at Barrowfield, and built their present works there. 
These were carried on in connection with the Millburn pyro¬ 
ligneous works, which had been started prior to the beginning of 
the century, and were the first of the kind in Scotland, and the 
second in the kingdom, old Sir Robert Peel having brought the 
process from France to his works in Lancashire, from whom John 
Turnbull obtained a knowledge of it. The firm shortly afterwards 
started the Bo’ness works, in the same line ; then those at Aber- 
foyle in 1316; Tayvallich in 1826; Portsonnachan in 1828; 
followed in more recent years by those at the Maidens and Kilker- 
ran in Ayrshire, Bingliampton in America, Coloony in Sligo, 
Balmaha, Perth, Stirling, and Crinan, 

W. S. Turnbull’s grandfather also carried on, for some time, 
the Dillichip calico printing works, in partnership with his 
brother-in-law, Robert Arthur (who purchased them from the 
Todds), the firm being Turnbull & Arthur. The works were 
ultimately sold by the trustees of Miss Mary Arthur to Sir 
Archibald Orr Ewing, Bart., and are now carried on by his firm. 

W. S. Turnbull’s great grandfather, after leaving Cordale, lived 
in Dalquhurn House for some years, and came to the Place of 
Bonhill in 1806. The old house of Bonhill was then deserted by 
the Smollett.s, and in ruins, but was restored by John Turnbull, 
in accordance with an arrangement made with Captain Smollett, 
the then laird of Bonhill. 

Relatives of W. S. Turnbull’s mother (Watson, Arthur & Co.) 
built the first Levenbank works in 1784. In 1808, they passed 
into the hands of his grandfather, John Stewart, and were 


RENTON. 


27 

carried on under the style or firm of Stewart, Arthur & Co. ; 
becoming, in 1845, the property, by purchase, of Messrs Arclid. 
Orr Ewing & Co. And here ends my notice of the oldest business 
firm in the Vale of Leven, which is still in the hands of the 
descendants of those who originally instituted it. 

JOHN MACLEOD, ENGINEER, 

One of the best known and one of the most useful of the 
inhabitants of Renton, was bom in Oban about 1830, where his 

father was piermaster. The family after a time removed to 
Bonawe, 12 miles distant from Oban, where the father died, 

leaving a widow and four young children, of whom the subject of 
this memoir was the second eldest, and only five years of age. 
For the sake of securing employment for her young family, the 
mother took her offspring to Renton in 1835, where and when 
the subject of this sketch began his industrial life as a “ tearcr 
in Cordate works. By-and-bye, he was promoted to the post of 
taking charge of the block-print house, and in 1857 he was 
apprenticed as a mill-wright with the owners of the works, Messrs 
William Stirling & Sons, and served his seven years with them 
to the trade. 

In 1854, when he became a journeyman, he entered the em¬ 
ployment of Messrs Tulloch it Denny, Engineers, Dumbarton, 
travelling morning and night from and to Renton, where he abode 
with his mother. In 1859, he received the appointment of 
engineer and mill architect of the works of the Messrs Stirling, 
at Cordale and Dalquhurn. 

In his new capacity, Mr MacLeod has shown marked ability. 
So far back as 1864, he designed and patented a yarn-tramping 
machine for liquoring yarns, and also a yarn-washing machine. 
In 1865 he invented and patented a machine for dyeing yarns 
for 120-lbs, and in 1867 he patented a second machine for dyeing, 
clearing, and washing 300-lbs of yarn. In 1878 he patented a 


REN’TON. 


28 

hydraulic bundling press. In 1879 he patented a stove filling 
and stripping apparatus, but that has been superseded. The 
other machines, however, are all in use at this present. 

John MacLeod’s abilities as an architect have found a good 
field in the village Many of its private, and a few of its public 
buildings have been designed by him, including the last addition 
to the public school. He is a member of the School Board. He 
was for years president and secretary of the old Renton Public 
School Society, and was its president when the school was trans. 
ferred along with the teacher’s house to the School Board. In 
fine, I ask my readers to carefully peruse the portion of this bock 
which refers to recent improvements in Renton, a few pages 
further on, and take my word for it, that John MacLeod had a 
great deal to do with them all. More especially was he identified 
with the introduction of gas and water into the village. 

O O 

DUGALD MITCHELL, M.B., C.M. 

Among the notable men of most communities, those of the 
medical profession occupy a prominent position. Renton is no 
exception to the rule. Dr Mitchell, its medico, is one of its 
leading lights. He was born at Tarbert, Lochfyne, 6th February, 
1853--son of Alexander Mitchell, general merchant there. 
Educated at local schools, and afterwards at High School, 
Glasgow. He assisted his father in the conduct of his business 
for about three years, and then turned his attention to medicine, 
and matriculated at Glasgow University in 1875. Graduated 
M.B., C.M., July, 1879. After acting as assistant for a brief 
period, and practising for about a year in Tillicoultry, he settled in 
Renton in 1881. He holds the appointment of sanitary medical 
officer of Renton. Has served on Cardross School Board since 
1885. The Doctor takes an active interest in all matters having 
for their object the improvement of the village and villagers. He 
is an enthusiastic bowler, and feels interested in all athletic 


29 


KENTON. 

sports. In addition, lie is an elder in Levenside Free Church, 
and author of a well-written, reliable work on “ Tarbert, Past and 
Present,'’ published in 1886, which met with a good reception at 
the hands of the critics and the public. The Doctor is a benedict, 
having married in 1884. 

CHURCHES OF RENTON. 

Contrary to the plan carried out by me in other portions of this 
work, wherein I confine myself to giving the history of the 
Parish Church of each locality, I here give a somewhat lengthened 
notice of the various churches of Renton. My reasons for doing 
so are that the first chapel erected in Renton was one built by 
dissenters, and that the God’s Acre of the village is also connected 
with a place of worship which does not own its allegiance to the 
Church of Scotland. The first house of prayer erected in Renton 
was the one at the head of the Red Row, which was called the 

RENTON LEVENSIDE ASSOCIATE BURGHER CHURCH— 

a longish title, and one which would require a Philadelphia lawyer 
to make plain its meaning to the present generation. The site 
was the gift of William Stirling & Sons. The church—a plain, 
unattractive edifice—was built in 1786. Its erection was beset 
with considerable difficulties on account of the various obstacles 
put in the way of its promoters by the heritors and others, who 
even went the length of requesting employers of labour to discharge 
from their service the seceders who were erecting a chapel “which 
might be instrumental in closing the doo^s of the Parish Church.” 
But in vain did these boycotters make that appeal; for, to their 
honour be it spoken, the printfield owners turned a deaf ear to 
their entreaties. On the opening day of the chapel it is on record 
that: “All the men put into the plate paper, and all the boys 
silver.” The Rev. William Taylor was first minister of the chapel, 
and remained in that position for twenty years, removing to 


30 


RENTON'. 

4 

Perth in 1806. The minister, on communion occasions, had as many 
as nine clergymen assisting him, and people not only from the 
surrounding district, hut from Greenock, Paisley, and Glasgow, 
Hocked to these solemnities in thousands, sometimes as many as 
seven thousand being present, the service being held on the green 
behind the chapel. 

The place of worship remained till 1842 in connection with the 
body which founded it, but at that date the congregation joined 
the Reformed Presbyterian or “ Cameronian body, and continued 
in that connection until 1876, when once more a change was 
effected by amalgamating with the Pree Church. Mr Taylor’s 
successor in the pastorate of the chapel was the Rev. John 
M‘Kinlay, who, for fully half a century, went out and in among 
the people, full of the Holy Ghost and with great power and 
acceptance. On 2nd Oct., 1856, his jubilee as minister of the chapel 
was held, and in the following year he died in the seventy-fourth 
year of his age. He preached to his people the second Sabbath 
before his death. His successor was the Rev. John Hamilton, 
who, for seventeen years, with great ability and earnestness 
ministered unto the people in holy things. At the end of that 
period he was called to the Pree West Church, Glasgow, from 
whence, after a few years of faithful work, he was called to join 
the Church Triumphant. His comparatively early decease was 
much deplored. Mr Hamilton’s successor in the Levenside Free 
Church was the Rev. Geo. Davidson, who only remained in the 
charge seventeen months, when he accepted a call to the Pree 
Barony Church, Glasgow. Next in order came the Rev. Arclid. 
Bell, an accomplished and faithful man, who, following the 
example of the majority of his predecessors in the charge, left it 
early—1886 being the date when he accepted a call to the Pree 
Dean Church, Edinburgh. His successor in the Levenside Chapel 
is the Rev. James M‘Robert, M.A., who was born and brought 
up iu Glasgow, and was an alumnus of its University. He was 


RENTON. 


31 

licensed in June, 1886, and in the September of same year lie was 
ordained and inducted to his present charge. 

ESTABLISHED CHURCH. 

Renton being the most populous village or place in the parish 
of Cardross, it is not to be wondered at that a goodly number of 
its residenters belonged to the Established Church, and walked 
over Carman Hill to worship in the Kirk of the Parish. The 
parish minister held religious services and administered the sacra¬ 
ment of baptism at stated intervals in the village school, for the 
convenience of those of his parishioners who dwelt in or near the 
place. The heritors, in 1852, built in the village a mission house, 
and school for females, which they ultimately enlarged when, on 
28th February, 1870, the Renton district was created a quoad 
sacra parish —the opening day being 17th April of same year. 

The Rev. D. H. Wilson, who had been for some time officiating 
as missionary, was ordained first minister of the church. On 18th 
October, 1887, the Rev. A. Cameron Watson, R.l)., was inducted 
as colleague and successor in the charge. Quite recently it was 
fully realised that the church was structurally in an unsatisfactory 

condition, and a bazaar—that favourite device for raising money 

# 

for church purposes—was held, to raise money for the thorough 
renovation of the old edifice, or the building of a new one. The 
outcome of the movement was of such an entirely satisfactory 
nature that a new and handsome Parish Kirk is being erected on 
a suitable site, the lord of the manor, P. B. Smollett, Esq., of 
Bonhill, having granted such almost free of charge. 

Mr Wylie of Cordale was the main-spring of the operations 
which have brought about this most desirable consummation. The 
old place of worship passes into the hands of the United Presby¬ 
terians (at the price of £400) when the new Parish Kirk of 
Renton is ready for occupancy. The new church, which is being built 
in Leyen Street, will cost about £3000, and will give accommoda- 


R KNTOX 


elation to 800 worshippers. Messrs H. & D. Barclay, of Glasgow, 
are the architects, and it is confidently expected that the edifice 
will prove a beautiful and comfortable place of worship, and a 
great ornament to the village. Mr James Barlas, Alexandria, 
does the mason work, and Mr John Gillies, Alexandria, executes 
the wright work. 

[As I write, there is a rumour—and I believe a well founded 
one—that our Roman Catholic Brethren who dwell in Renton are 
about to erect therein a place of worship on a suitable site-—which 
will satisfy a felt want of long duration.] 

The minister of Renton’s biography is as follows :— 

REV. ALEXANDER CAMERON WATSON, M.A., B.D. 

This clergyman was born in Glasgow, on April 3rd, 1857. 
Ancestors on both sides, farmers; father, a baker : deacon of cor¬ 
poration a year or two before he died, about 1863. Mr Watson 
brought up for first ten years of his life in country on grandfather’s 
farm. Joined the High School of Glasgow in 1867, and was 
educated there. Took a good place in most classes—received 
prizes in Latin and Mathematics. Went from High School 
to Glasgow College in 1874. Held Forfar Bursary (.£20) for four 
years, also Town Council Bursary in Divinity Hall for three years; 
was 1th in Middle Mathematics : 6th in Logic : 5th in Moral 
Philosophy : 2nd in Political Economy : 3rd and 2nd (with two 
special prizes) in Hebrew ; 3rd or 4th each year in Divinity Hall: 
3rd in Biblical Criticisms : 1st (special) in Church History: 
graduated in Arts and Theology, M.A. and B.D. : was treasurer 
and President of University Missionary Society, and member of 
Conservative Club Committee : was for two years Missionary to 
Dr. Burns, Glasgow Cathedral, and has brother an elder of same. 
Licensed by Glasgow Presbytery in May, 1882 : assistant to 
Rev. Mr King, New Kilpatrick, 1882-83, working in that capacity 


lliSNTOK.' * 3 3 

chiefly among the miners of Netherton and Knightswood. In 
Oct., 1883, was ordained by Dumbarton Presbytery as Missionary 
to Madras, India, and wrought for a year chiefly in the Church 
of Scotland Institution along with Principal Sinclair, who recently 
died. Had a serious illness, and was ordered home at end of 
1884 : was appointed assistant to Rev. David Hunter, St. Mary’s 
Parish, Partick—March, 1885 : Oct., 1887; Inducted to Renton, 
18th Oct., 1887. 

Mr Watson is a Burgess of the City of Glasgow, and member 
of the Corporation of Bakers. He is also Chaplain of Lodge St. 
Bryde, Uddingstone (579), and lion, member of the “Star of the 
Yale” Sons of Temperance Lodge, Renton. Married in July, 
1888, and has one son. 

MILLBURN FREE CIIURC1I AND BURYING GROUND. 

This place of worship and its adjoining place of sepulture, at 
the north end of Renton, owe their origin to the Disruption of 
1843, which rent asunder the goodly structure of the Church of 
Scotland. In 1845 the late William Campbell, laird of Tullich- 
ewan, erected at his own expense the elegant small Gothic chapel 
of Millburn—which is adorned with a fine ornate steeple—and 
also secured ample ground around the same for a sleeping place 
for the dead. This place of prayer was opened on December 14th, 
1845. In May, 1846, the church was sanctioned as a separate 
charge. The congregation, on 4th January, 1847, called the Rev. 
John Isdale to become their minister ; but the Presbytery of 
Kirkcaldy refused to sanction his translation. After this repulse, 
the people—in Nov., 1847—gave a. unanimous call to the Rev. 
Walter M‘Kay Dempster, who had been acceptably labour¬ 
ing amongst them for some time previous. The call was 
signed by 91 members and 46 adherents. This call was not 
in vain, for the reverend gentleman answered favourably. He 
was ordained to the charge on 24th February, 1848, For fully 


34 


RENTON. 


forty years Mr Dempster went out and in amongst the villagers 
as a faithful pastor, who took a warm interest, not only in 
the spiritual affairs of his flock, hut also in their temporal ones. 

On account of the infirmities incidental to advancing years, he 
resigned his charge in June, 1888—so far as discharging the active 
duties of the same were concerned—and died 3rd August, 1891, 
aged 75. His colleague, the Rev. John Blades, succeeded him 
in the charge, and was ordained on Wednesday, 11th March, 1891. 
This divine is a Dumbartonshire man, having been born in Cum¬ 
bernauld in December, 1856. His parents having removed to 
Armadale, there their son was brought up and educated. In 
course of time Mr Blades went to Glasgow, where he engaged for 
a short time in business pursuits, being cashier to a large firm. 
He also closely allied himself at this period with Free Saint 
Mark’s Church, Glasgow, of which lie was Sabbath School Super¬ 
intendent, and one of the most active and efficient members of the 
church in all its various organisations. 

Mr Blades having resolved to devote himself to the work of 
the ministry, with a view to the same he studied in the University 
of Glasgow, and at the close of his curriculum he went to Addie- 
well as a missionary, where he ministered most diligently, his 
labours having been crowned with much success. He having 
conducted worship in Millburn Free Church, the members thereof 
at once came to the conclusion that at last the hour had brought 

o 

the longed-for man, and, immediately on his being licensed by the 
Free Church Presbytery of Glasgow, the congregation put into 
his hands a unanimous call, which was at once accepted by him. 

Before the ground around Millburn Free Church was set apart 
for the burying of the dead, the deceased villagers were buried, 
either in the graveyard connected with the Relief Church (now 
U.P.); West Bridgend, Dumbarton; in Bonhill Churchyard; or in 
the Parish Kirkyard at Cardross, between the latter of which 
and Renton the steep hill of Carman rears its smooth, grassy 


KENTON. 


35 


form. During the journey from the one place to the other over 
the connecting road, some of the most beautiful views in Scotland 
are obtained, the whole valley of the Leven and a goodly portion 
of Loclilomond being spread out before the gaze on the one side, 
and the Vale of Clyde and its noble firth are visible for many a 
league on the other. 

I will now in this connection <nve a few brief sketches of 

O 

SOME NOTABLE DECEASED EENTONIANS 

whose mortal remains, in the majority of cases, are interred in 
the God’s Acre of Millburn Church. 

DAVID AUCHINVOLE, J.P.. 

was for many years a well known figure on the streets of Renton. 
He was a joiner to trade, and served his apprenticeship with 
James M‘Alester of Dumbarton. At an early date he became 
lessee of the Leven fishings at Dalquhurn, and as the fish were 
numerous and far famed for their quality, this turned out a very 
lucrative business, which enabled him in a few years to retire from 
it in easy circumstances. Having plenty of spare time on his 
hands, and being of a genial, happy, and obliging temperament, 
he made himself very useful in the village of which he was 
jokularly called provost. He was widely known and highly 
respected. He was fond of a good story and a spicy joke, and 
being often in the shop of his brother-in-law, Peter APKellar, a 
grocer and spirit merchant, immediately below where he lived, he 
had many opportunities of meeting a large number of friends “oe’r 
a wee drappie o’t.” He was a keen sportsman, and enjoyed shooting 
very much ; and he often shot over the moors in the vicinity 
along with the late William Stirling of Dalquhurn. David 
Auchenvole was also very fond of the “ roaring game,” and was a 
keen, keen curler, playing often on Carman Loch with evident 
relish. Now Renton knoweth no more this genial soul. Long 


ob 


RfeNToN. 


ago lie departed thence, “ to that undiscovered country from 
whose bourne no traveller returns.” 

PETER M‘KELLAR, 

who began life as a calico printer, was for many years a grocer and 
spirit merchant in the Main Street of Renton. His house was the 
principal place of business in the village, and was used by Mr 
Smollett’s factors in collecting his feu duties, and is still used for 
this purpose. Mr M‘Kellar was for many years a leading villager, 
and took an active part and a deep interest in all the old institu¬ 
tions of the place, such as : “ The Charity School Society,” “ The 
Public School Society,” and the “ Renton Public Library.” He 
was a pleasant man, a good story-teller and an admirable joker, 
and had a large fund of anecdotes at his command. These quali¬ 
fications made his place of business much frequented, and his 
company much sought after. He rests from his labours in the 
West Bridgend Burying Place, Dumbarton, where his tombstone 
declares that he died August 16th, 1862, aged 63 years. 

RICHARD MONTGOMERY 

was another well-known villager. He began life as a calico 

o o 

printer, and ultimately blossomed into a shopkeeper in the 
village. Beginning with earthenware, he by slow degrees and 
more and more became a general merchant. Along with much 
simplicity of character, his manner had a tendency to lead a 
stranger to think that he was somewhat harsh in disposition, but 
he possessed warm and kindly feelings, and in the high jinks of 
the old villagers, he often took an active part. His views on 
politics in the old days when Chartism was rampant might be 
considered extreme. He was an enthusiastic “ Free Mason,” and 
took great interest in lodge matters in general, and particularly 
in the decoration of the late Mr Murray’s Masonic Hall in Black 
Bull Inn. The embellishments were executed principally under his 


ftENTOtf. 


37 


superintendence, and when completed a number of friends 
entertained him to supper, and presented him with his portrait, 
which still hangs on the wall of Renton Masonic Hall. His 
remains were interred with masonic honours; and now the village 
of Renton has “ a worthy ” the fewer within its borders. 

ALEXANDER SMITH, SHIP CARPENTER, 

who was a Dumbartonian—born in 1815 ; died in Renton 18S7, 
aged 72 years. In early life he was apprenticed to Deacon 
MacAlester, Dumbarton, to learn the trade of ship carpenter. In 
after life he was for many years employed by Messrs William 
Denny & Bros, at his craft. For a few years before he was called 
hence he lived in Renton, and held a post of some kind at 
Dalquhurn Works. Old Sandy in his time did admirable work 
in preserving the rights-of-way of the Dumbarton public in con¬ 
nection with the Washingstone Green, Grugie’s Burn, Strowan’s 
Well, and Mill Lade, and deserves honourable mention for his 
arduous, disinterested services. No stone marks his place of 
sepulture in the Renton place of graves—“ True, ’tis pity ; and 
pity ’tis, ’tis true.” 

There is vet another name I would add to the foregoing list, 
and that is 


GEORGE SCOTT. 

In the early days of Renton the interments of its deceased in¬ 
habitants took place in various kirkyards in its neighbourhood, as 
has been already stated ; but there is a place of burial near 
Dalquhurn Mansion House tenanted by only one inhabitant, and 
that one a George Scott, erstwhile in extensive business in 
Glasgow and abroad, who married Miss Stirling. He lived for a 
time at Dalquhurn Cottage, the road which leads to it and to 
Dalquhurn House being still called after him—“Scott's Avenue.’’ 
He died in London, but left strict orders that his body should be 


38 


RENTON. 


taken to Dalquhurn and buried where it now lies, beneath a stone 
of memorial having engraved on it a Latin inscription of which 
the following is a literal translation :— 

HERE LIES 

GEORGE SCOTT, 

SON OF A MERCHANT, 

LATE OF GLASGOW. 

IIE SOJOURNED IN INDIA FOR 
FIFTEEN YEARS. 

IMMEDIATELY AFTER HIS RETURN 
TO BRITAIN HE DIED AT LONDON, 

ON THE SIXTH DAY OF NOVEMBER, 

] 767, IN THE 37th YEAR OF HIS AGE. 

HIS REMAINS WERE BROUGHT HERE 
BY HIS BROTHERS CHARLES AND 
WILLIAM, 

WHERE HE WISHED TO BE BURIED. 

It has been considered bv many that this tombstone covered 
the remains of one or other of the members of the Smollett family 
who lived at Dalquhurn House, but that conjecture is erroneons. 

FREE GAELIC CHURCH. 

The Free Church Highlanders of the Vale of Leven, about the 
year 1850, being desirous of enjoying religious services in their 
mother tongue, secured a series of missionaries to conduct the 
same in a mission house. In 1856, when the numbers of those 
worshipping in that place had considerably increased, they erected 
the Renton Free Gaelic Church. To this charge the Rev. 
Alexander Cameron was ordained in 1859. He was translated 
to Brodick, Arran, in 1865, and has a year or two ago deceased. 
He was an eminent Gaelic scholar. 

The Rev. Mr Cameron’s immediate successors in Renton were 
the Revs. James Dempster, translated to Lybster in 1879 ; D. 
Colvin, who after a ministry of four years was called to Auchter- 


RENTON. 


39 


arder, 1884 ; and Alexander Miller, present minister, inducted 
1884. 

The Rev. A. Miller was born in the parish of Dores, near banks 
of Loch Ness, Inverness-shire, 5th November, 1843. He was 
educated at Dores Parish School, and High School, Inverness. 
Entered Glasgow Free Church Normal Seminary in the begin¬ 
ning of 1863. Went through the usual course of training 
for two years there. At Christmas, 1865, was appointed 
assistant master in a Free Church School, Edinburgh (afterwards 
a public school). Went through the University curriculum in 
Arts while employed in this School, gaining some prizes in Uni¬ 
versity. Was then appointed one of the Masters in George 
Watson’s College School for boys, Edinburgh, where he continued 
for two years, when he was appointed to the head-mastership of 
school where previously assisted. In this school continued till 
entered New College, Edinburgh, to study for the ministry of the 
Free Church, in Nov., 1876. Had good deal to do in musical 
world in Edinburgh, by way of training choirs, musical associa¬ 
tions, &c. Licensed by Edinburgh Free Presbytery in May, 
1880. Then took charge of preaching station at Invergarry, 
Inverness-shire, for three months, and afterwards of Struan 
station for several months. Called to the Free Church Congrega¬ 
tion, Kirkmichael, Banffshire, in 1881, and ordained there first 
Sabbath of June same year. Called to Gaelic Church, Renton, 1881. 
Call accepted, although Kirkmichael congregation unanimously 
petitioned Free Presbytery of Abernethy to set call aside. In¬ 
ducted in Renton on 10th June, 1884. Married, on T 6th Sept., 
1884, second daughter of Rev. Colin Sinclair, Free Church, 
Invergordon. 

Mr Miller is author of a work on “ Everlasting Salvation,” 
which is an able production of a severely Calvinistic type, 
published in 1887, in which year he also issued a pamphlet on 
“Armenianism and Evangelism,” 


40 


RENTOK. 


On account of dissatisfaction arising from causes which need 
not he stated, quite a number of members and adherents of 
the Free Gaelic Church, hived off from it and settled in a tempor¬ 
ary place of worship, being ministered to by probationers of the 
Free Church. Quite recently serious attempts were made to have 
the congregation constituted by the Presbytery into a regular 
charge. If this be acceeded to, it will bring up the number of 
Free Churches in the village to four. The Free Church Presby¬ 
tery of Dumbarton has ineffectually tried, time after time, to 
bring about the fusion of parties, so as to lessen the number; but 
Wilful’ men maun ha’e their way.” When friends fall out, the 
strife is bitter. 


UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 

A few years ago, the United Presbyterians of Renton found 
themselves numerically strong enough to erect a temporary 
wooden house of worship, to which the Rev. David Sutherland 
was ordained first minister in 1882. From small beginnings, the 
number attending this church has 'increased wonderfully. In 
1890 a successful bazaar was held to raise funds for the erection 
of a new church, for which purpose the firm of Messrs William 
Stirling A: Sons, in the most generous and catholic spirit, voted 
£100. Mr Alexander Wylie, the resident partner of the firm, 
stated at the close of the bazaar that, in the event of the congre¬ 
gation erecting a manse within the bounds cf Renton for their 
minister within two years from October, 1890, his firm would 
grant for that object £200. The congregation have arranged to 
purchase the Parish Church when it is vacated, for the sum of 
£400. 

This ends my rapid resume of the history of the six churches of 
the village of Renton—a number probably unparalleled by that 
of any other place of similar population (5000) in the United 
Kingdom, 


41 


RENTON. 


RECENT IMPROVEMENTS. 

Since I first wrote in a former book of the village of Renton, 

O J 

many things have happened in its history. In 1882 its drainage, 
its water supply, and its general sanitary condition were in a 
very unsatisfactory state—so much so that the Board of Super¬ 
vision declared to the Local Authority that if these matters were 
not forthwith put right by them, they would be put right for them 
at their cost. This threat led to immediate action being taken. 
A Provisional Order was obtained, the necessary cash arranged 
for, and the work pushed so energetically forward that the ample 
and pure gravitation water supply from Carman Hill was turned 
on to the village by Mr Alexander Wylie of Cordale, the good 
genius of the place,- on 16th October, 1886, to the great joy of 
the inhabitants. The storage pond is so ample that, if required, 
it could be made to contain one hundred million gallons of water. 
The opening day was one ever to be remembered in the history of 
Renton, for on it there was also laid the foundation stone of the 
Victoria Institute. The villagers on that auspicious occasion held 
high holiday. They turned out in their hundreds in festive garb, 
with bands of music, floating banners, and other signs of jubilation, 
marching first to Carman Loch, and from thence back to the 
village to assist in the foundation stone-laying function of the 
Victoria Institute. When these matters of great pith and moment 
were transacted, Mr Wylie hospitably entertained about three 
hundred guests at Cordale House. The entire cost of the drain¬ 
age and introduction of water was £1200, which sum was borrowed 
at 3§ per cent, payable in thirty years. Mr Wylie, to emphasize 
the importance of the day, presented to the inhabitants two highly 
ornamental drinking fountains, which are much appreciated, and 
extensively drawn upon for the silverine treasures they freely 
yield without money and without price. 

In my early days Renton was an old-fashioned place—a sort of 
sleepy hollow. The oil eruizie and the candle of tallow illumin- 


42 


RENTON. 


ated o’ nights the dwellings of the people; and one chapel—that 
of the Cameronians—afforded the natives spiritual illumination. 
Since those primitive times there have been erected two Free 
Churches, one Established Church, to which a parish has been 
assigned; and a United Presbyterian Church. The onward 
movement of the village began with the introduction of eras in 
1860. That illuminant apparently threw light on many deficien¬ 
cies in the social economics of the place, to which the people did 
well to take heed. In 1882 the Public Hall was built, and on it 
and the other three public schemes already mentioned there was 
spent the not inconsiderable sum of £8000. 

The people of Penton, since ever it was a village, were a 
reading set. In 1797 they founded a library, which ultimately 
found a resting place in the village school. As time went on it was 
considered that this was not the most suitable place for its habita¬ 
tion. A member of the committee which had charge of the library 
suggested that it should be housed in a more suitable place, which 
led up to the erection of the Victoria Institute, consisting of 
library, reading, and recreation rooms. The library contains 
three thousand volumes, which is a very creditable number indeed 
for the place, all things considered. Towards the building and 
equipping of the Institute the firm of William Stirling & Sons 
gave <£600 ; P. B. Smollett, lord of the manor, gave <£250 ; and 
the goodly sum of £500 was secured by voluntary subscriptions 
obtained from divers parties. 

The foundation stone of this important public building was laid 
by Patrick Boyle Smollett of Bonhill on 16th October, 1886, and 
it was opened to the public, with an imposing ceremony, by 
Alexander Wylie of Cordale, on 21st June, 1887. I was present 
on the latter occasion by invitation, and I and those who were 
similarly situated were hospitably entertained after the event, al 
fresco, in the Cordale House policies, in tip top style. The 
weather was glorious, and all went merry as a marriage bell. 


RENTON. 


43 


This Institute is being favourably taken advantage of. At 
present (1891) the membership is 169. 738 volumes have been 

issued from the library during one quarter, which is an increase 
of 25 compared with the corresponding quarter of last year* 
The library comprises history, literature, essays, biographies, 
poetry, magazines, miscellaneous literature, religious works, fiction, 
arts and sciences, geography, and travels. The reading room is now 
but poorly patronised, the average attendance being about twelve. 
In the billiard-room section the interest has fallen off considerably, 
which tells against the funds. The recreation rooms are 
attended fairly well, one feature in this department being a 
draught club, which is very well patronised. Financially this 
institute is largely indebted to the purse of Messrs William 
Stirling & Sons. 

In the gay and festive time of my life, left now several decades 
behind, Carman or Dumbarton Cattle Market made a wondrous 
stir in the town of Dumbarton and in the village of Renton. The 
low of cattle, the bleat of sheep, and the neigh of horses going to 
and returning from the fair, was suggestive of far-reaching 
monetary influences which stirred even the trading instinct of 
the remoter Hebrides. The annual occurrence of the cattle market 
brought many gangarel bodies into the village. Some of these 
came a few days before, and some remained a few days after its 
advent. Their principal houf was Molly Lang’s lodging house in 
Thimble Street, and during the time they were its inmates many 
a strange scene was enacted therein, which to the spectator con¬ 
jured up visions of Burns’Jolly Beggars. 

Penny reels were at that time prevalent in the village during 
the fair, and I am under the impression that over two score years 
ago, “ In life’s morning march, when my bosom was young,'’ I 
participated in them on more than one occasion. The opinion of 
Mrs Grundy was not so dreaded then as it is now by the com¬ 
munity. Forty years ago a wider margin was allowed within which 


44 


RENTON. 


one might cut his cantrips and yet not be considered reprobate. 
The fair is now a ghost of its former self, and the big fights 
between the Dumbarton Carpenters and the Yale of Leven printers 
over their cups, during its continuance, are numbered amongst the 
things that were. The fashion of all things changeth. The 
picturesqueness of life has almost vanished. We have become 
virtuous, and profess to no longer love cakes and ale. 

In my time, Renton has not only improved greatly in sanitary 
matters, but architecturally it has made most gratifying advances. 
There is a row of workmen’s houses at the south end of the village 
which would be a credit to any town in the country, and here and 
there through the bounds of the place there are some indications 
of good taste in the style of new buildings which I was not 
prepared for. Notably is that the case on each side of the Main 
Street at or near the Cross. On the west side, there is a hand¬ 
some freestone, turretted, picturesque building, somewhat in the 
old Scotch baronial style, used as business premises and dwelling 
houses; and on the east side there is a quaint, substantial, antique¬ 
looking edifice, used as dwelling houses, having one large pane of 
glass in the lower sashes of the windows, and a number of small 
panes in the upper ones. An inscription on a tablet, in the queer, 
auld-fashioned style of lettering prevalent centuries ago, states— 
House Re-built, 1S90. 

While the more central parts of the village have been much im¬ 
proved, the outskirts also show signs of advancement. Many 
charming villas and cottages rear their fascinating forms there, 
’mid trim kept lawns and fair gardens, testifying to the wider 
diffusion of wealth and taste to what prevailed in our fathers’ 
time. Renton bids fair to become, by-and-bye, a model village. 

In conclusion it may be stated that the village w^as called after 
a Miss Cecilia Renton who in last century married Alexander 
Telfer-Smollett, grandfather of the present laird of Bonhill, and 
nephew of Tobias George Smollett, M.D. 


1®J 

rsJraJ naJ rsJ naJ (g»°l raJ raJ rsJ nil raj f=t=| rau raJ na! raJ rai!' nil nUTU raTraJl 

M 

1 

i 

i 


i 

§ 

§ 


si 

raj raj raj rmj raj mm raj rau raj rsJ rs_i ral nu rsJ raj ran mm raj rsJ raj rai reJ If® 1 1 

—rr - - - - - ■--—-■■■■;-— - J 


(Chapter £ £. 


CARD] loss. 


^THE present village of Oardross is a comparatively modern 
one, and the name it hears applies, or rather applied, to the 
Sand point portion of the parish, opposite the Castle of Dumbarton, 
on which for many centuries the church of the parish and adjoin¬ 
ing clachan stood—Ross, “ The Point; ” Car, “ of the muirish 
ridge, ” being its Celtic etymology. 

The village in all probability took its rise in or about 1644, 
when the ancient kirk of the parish at Levengrove, Dumbarton, 
was shut up, and given over to neglect and decay. At that period 
a new church, the predecessor of the present one, was built, and a 
God's Acre set apart for the burial of the dead in the new and 
more central position. 

The ancient place of graves (with its guardian belt of noble trees) 


which lay adjacent to the deserted Kirk o’ Cardross, although not 
used so frequently after the house ceased to be a house of prayer. 














































46 


CAEDROSS. 


yet, clown to a date within the remembrance of one or two of the 
oldest inhabitants of Dumbarton, the interments were by no means 
so uncommon as one might think. 

In 1805 the Levengrove estate passed from Richard Dennistoun 
of Kelvingrove into the hands of the Dixons, and John Dixon, 
the new laird, about 1820, caused the graveyard to be ploughed 
up, the gravestones to be displaced and destroyed, and the ground 
to be embraced in his policies. There are, however, still to be 
seen, near the ruins of the auld kirk, two old, large, flat stones of 
memorial which have survived the general wreck—one outside 
the ruined walls, without inscription, but having by way of orna¬ 
ment a shield and cross bones ; the other, which is inside the walls, 
has an Ionic cross covering its whole extent. On the one end of 
this stone there is engraven “ The XII Aprel, ” and on the other 
end, “ Heir Lyes, 17. ” 

Within the area of the small, plain, roofless, centuries-old kirk 
of Carclross, many members of the Dixon family are laid to rest. 
Suitable monuments have been erected to their memory. One of 
exceptional excellence has been placed therein by the present laird 
of Levengrove, to the memory of his father. 

There was in close proximity to the sacred edifice a clachan 
called Under Kirkton, now entirely swept away, in one of the 
houses of which the venerable Alexander Ewing, erstwhile carrier 
between Dumbarton and Glasgow, now resident in the village of 
Cardross, was born. 

The well which supplied the clachan with water was ycleped 
St. Shear’s, or St. Serfs well (the holy well in which St. Serf bap¬ 
tized his converts). It also for many years did the same kindly 
office to the burgh of Dumbarton. It is now a drinking fountain 
for the frequenters of Levengrove Public Park, the gift of Messrs 
John M‘Millan and Peter Denny, in which the fair policies, 
the goodly gardens and pleasure grounds of the Dixon family, are 
all now embraced, making an area of thirty two acres in extent. 


CARDROSS. 


17 


This public park is indeed a most delectable one both for situation 
and for the admirable way in which it is laid out and kept. The 
cost to the donors was at least -£20,000. 

As far back as 1225, distinct mention is made in history of the 
kirk of Cardross, and for three centuries the Bishops of Glasgow 
and their Deans and Chapters held it. From 1480, when Robert 
Blackadder was rector of Cardross, down to the present day, 
when Mr Maxwell is its incumbent, twenty-three ministers in 
succession have attended to the spiritual wants of the parishioners. 
The present parish church was built in 1826, and is seated for 
800. (The kirk it supplanted, of date middle of seventeenth 
century, was only seated for 400.) It has a noble, square, 
pinnacled tower, and is altogether a favourable specimen of the 
Gothic architecture affected by the more advanced heritors of 
Scotland in the erection of the churches of its era. Recently 
the edifice has been much improved, an organ has been introduced, 
and four memorial painted glass windows, representing Matthew, 
Mark, Luke and John, have been put in position by the following 
parties :—the late Colin Campbell of Colgrain; the late Alexander 
Smollett of Bonhill; Alexander Dunlop of Garbraid, and 
William Carstares Dunlop, in memory of their grandfather, Alex¬ 
ander Dunlop of Keppoch ; and the last of the number was 
erected by subscribers in acknowledgement of the liberality of 
the deceased Mr Donaldson of Keppoch, in restoring and renovat¬ 
ing the Church, thereby making it a beautiful as well as a holy 
house of prayer. The sacred edifice stands in the midst of its 
God’s Acre, on a gentle eminence fringed with trees of goodly 
proportions. It overlooks the Dumbarton and Helensburgh road, 
and commands a charming view of the spacious firth of Clyde, 
the sweet village of Cardross, and its fertile, well-watered fields. 
’Twere difficult to conceive of a bonnier situation for a kirk and 
kirk yard. 

From the considerable number of local lauded gentry whose 


CARD ROSS 


48 

mortal remains have been laid in this hallowed spot to sleep their 
long sleep, within walls of hewn masonry, or ornamental railed-off 
spaces, having within their confines imposing stones of memorial, 
the graveyard, more especially at its western boundary, has 
somewhat of a city aspect added to its rustic beauty. 

While the general appearance of the place of burial exhibits a 
tidiness which is an agreeable contrast to what obtained in it 
down to recent years, yet it can by no means be termed a garden 
cemetery. 

Having given above a general description of the kirk and kirk- 
yard of Cardross, I proceed to give biographies cf some of the more 
prominent of those who dwell ’neatli the cool green turf and meek 
faced daisies, where statedly on the Lord’s day the air is filled 
with the voice of prayer and praise as it welleth forth from the 
sacred fane which rears its form in the midst of their lowly 
places of rest. The first to be noticed are several of the ministers 
of the parish. 

The oldest gravestone that I can find in the kirkyard is that 
erected to the memory of the 

REV. ROBERT WATSON, 

who succeeded his father as minister of the parish in 1651, and 
died in 1671, at the early age of 42. He was minister therefore 
for twenty years, and can only have been twenty-two years of age 
at the time of his appointment. He was married to a daughter 
of Principal Baillie of Glasgow University, one of the most emin¬ 
ent, and perhaps the most moderate of all the Scottish Presby¬ 
terian clergy during the time of the Civil War. Shortly after the 
Restoration, when Charles II. came to the throne, a proclamation 
was issued announcing the restoration of Episcopacy. A number 
of the ministers in the Presbytery of Dumbarton were ejected from 
their parishes for remaining faithful to the Presbyterian form of 
church government; but Mr Watson conformed to the new order 


CARDROSS. 


49 


of tilings. However, of liis parishioners there were cited to appear 
before the Commissioners appointed to suppress conventicles in 
Dumbartonshire, John Napier of Kilmahew and Lilias Colquhoun 
his wife ; Esobel Buchanan, widow of Archd. Buchanan of Drum¬ 
head ; and John Yuille of Darleith. Napier of Kilmahew, failing 
to compear, was treated as having admitted the charge, and fined 
£3000 sterling; Isobel Buchanan was fined in the sum of <£100* 
John Yuille appeared to answer the charge made against him ; he 
was fined in the sum of £1000 sterling, and as he refused payment 
of the amount was conveyed a prisoner to the Castle of Dumbarton. 
These were counted worthy to suffer for righteousness sake. The 
inscription on Mr Watson’s monument is in Latin verse ; I give 
it as translated by the Rev. Mr Maxwell, minister of the parish. 


“Sacred to the memory of Master Robert Watson.— 

Oli, sad to tell, this humble tomb contains Watson, for twice ten years 
parish minister of C'ardross, a brilliant ornament in the mystic sciences, a 
helper of the wretched, and a distinguished athlete for the Lord : eloquent, 
fluent, in piety second to none : having fought a good fight, now encircled 
with the crown. He died 7th Sept., 1071, aged 42 years. ” 


REVS. J. GARTSIIORE AND OTHERS. 

Mr Watson was succeeded in 1672 by James Gartshore, who 
was minister for twelve years, and was then translated to the 
parish of Tranent. He was succeeded in 1683 by Hugh Gordon 
or Gardener, who had been minister of Row for eighteen years 
previously. This divine was a very zealous High Churchman, 
avIio warmly espoused the side of King James, and resented the 
coming- of William of Orange. This was manifested on the occa- 
sion of a baptism in the church. In reply to his inquiry as to what 
was to be the child’s name, the father replied, *' William. ” This 
was too much for the tory minister, who at once said “Na, na; we’ve 
had owre mony Williams already; the bairn’s name maun be 
James.” Mr Gordon was ousted at the revolution. His son James 
became minister of Row. He inherited his father’s attachment 


50 


CARDROSS. 


to High Churchism and the exiled king. Refusing to pray for 
King William and Queen Mary, he was libelled before the Pres¬ 
bytery, found guilty, and ejected from his parish. Mr Gordon 
was succeeded, in 1689, by one Neil Gillies, who was a few months 
later translated to Glasgow, and in 1690 James Gordon became 
minister of Cardross. He was “ ane Ireland minister. ” The in¬ 
scription on Mr Gordon’s tombstone 1 have not been able to 
decipher; but I think the Rev. Mr Maxwell has done so effect¬ 
ually with the help of the Rev. Mr Watson of the Free Church. 
They had a very difficult task, but it is curious what a fascin¬ 
ation a puzzle such as this offers to those of antiquarian tastes. 
It is in Latin verse ; here is the translation, as executed by the 
Rev. Mr Maxwell. 

“ To the memory of Master James Gordon, minister of Cardross. 
Gordon fell by the stroke of all conquering death, and his distinguished 
frame lies by this tombstone. He proved by his cleverness that the sublime 
parts comprehend more wonderful things than belong to nature; high-souled, 
in good things daring as eagle, but as to praises indifferent, nor did the 
highest wisdom lie hid from the learned man. Too early did the joys of 
the life above snatch him from us. ” 

Mr Gordon was succeeded by Archibald Wallace, who was 
inducted in 1695. He married a daughter of Donald of Lyle- 
ston. His monument is the flat stone in the corner next the 

manse. Mr Wallace was succeeded bv 

%/ 

REV. JOHN EDMONSTONE. 

who was appointed by the Crown to the living of Cardross, and 
ordained in 1726. He for forty-four years faithfully discharged 
the duties of his office, and sank to rest universally beloved. His 
remains are interred in the south side of the churchyard, where 
an ornate, quaint monument sets forth the record of his many 
virtues and accomplishments in elegant Latin, as follows :—■ 


CARDROSS. 


51' 


M. S. 

Ad hoc marmor, deposited sunt reliquiae 
Viri plurimum reverendi doctissimique, 

Joannis Edmonstone, A.M., 

Qui in Parochia de Cardross, per annos quater undecim, 

Pastoris praestantissimi muneribus functus est. 

Ab adolescentia studiis optimarum artium deditius 
Yerum et honestum sensit, coluit commendavit. 

Rerum divinarum hunianarumque scientia inter paucissimos excultus ; 

Erga summum numen pietatum, erga genus humanum amorem, 

In concionibus, in congressibus, voce multum vita tnagis, 

Docuit. 

Ab initis officiis adusque vitie finem stamins, firmus atque stabilis 
Yirtutis verse, pacisque Christianae custos et satelles. 

In rudioris et labascentis initis et miserieores 
Etiam in turbulentos, vix ascerbus, 

Menses Martii xxi, anni mdcclxxi 
Mortem obiit octogenarius 

Andreas, filius natu maximus optimo, parenti moerens posuit 

V.S.L.M. 

TRANSLATION. 

Near this stone are laid the remains of the very reverend and learned 
John Edmonstone, A.M., V.D.M., who in the parish of Cardross performed 
the duties of pastor with rare excellence for a period of forty-four years. 

Devoted from his earliest years to the study of the fine arts, he lovingly 
cherished and commended all that was true and upright. 

Endowed as few men are with wisdom in things divine and human, he 
taught in Synod and Assembly, even more by purity of life and work than 
by power of word and precept, the bear of God and Love towaids man. 

From the commencement of his duties to the end of his days a firm 
upholder of honest virtue and an unswerving ally and champion of Christian 
peace, tender and compassionate to the ignorant and erring, patient and 
forbearing to the wayward, he died 21st March, 1 1 /l, in his 80th yeai. 

Erected to the memory of his dear father, by Andrew, his eldest son. 

The Rev. John Edmonstone’s successor was the 

REV. JOHN MACAULAY, 

who was inducted minister of Cardross in 1774. He was born in 


52 


CARDROSS. 


1720, at Harris—of which place his father was minister—and 
graduated as M.A., at King’s College, Aberdeen. In 1745 he 
was ordained minister of South Uist. In 1756 he removed to 
Lismore ; and nine years thereafter went to Inveraray and was 
minister thereof when Dr Johnson and Boswell visited that town 
during their journey to the Hebrides. The clergyman spent a 
pleasant evening with the travellers at their inn. Mr Macaulay’s 
translation to Cardross was strenuously opposed by the ultra 
Calvinistic section of the presbytery on account of his belonging 
to the Moderate party, but it was ultimately carried through in 
1774. He married Margaret, third daughter of Colin Campbell, 
Inversregan, by whom he had twelve children, of whom the 
youngest, John, died in infancy. One of the family rose to the 
rank of General in the East India Company’s service. Another, 
Zachary, became a merchant in Sierra Leone, and on returning to 
this country became a most useful and prominent member of the 
party which then laboured devotedly for the abolition of slavery 
in the British possessions. Zachary, by his marriage with a 
Miss Mills, daughter of a Bristol merchant, had a son, the late 
Thomas Babington, the illustrious critic, historian, and statesman, 
created Lord Macaulay of Bothley. A sister of Zachary married 
Thomas Babington, an English gentleman, after whom the his¬ 
torian was named. John Macaulay died minister of Cardross in 
1789, and there his remains are interred. 

In 1790, John MacAulay’s son, Alexander, was presented by 
the Crown to the living. He was succeeded in 1801 by Archibald 
Wilson, who died in 1839, and is buried close by the Rev. John 
MacAulay in the south-east corner of the graveyard, where a 
monument is erected to his memory. During the last twelve years 
of his incumbency he was in great measure unable, on account of 
ill heath, to discharge the duties of his sacred office, and he was 
fortunate in having, during the last year of his life, the services 
of him who was his colleague and much esteemed successor, the 


CARDROSS, 


53 


REV. WILLIAM DUNN, 

who afterwards lived and laboured in the full charge of the parish 
for forty years as its minister, He was bom in the year 1811, in 
the parish of Doune, Perthshire, where his father held a small 
farm. His home was a simple, well-ordered, pious one, so that he 
was brought up in the nurture and admonition of the Lord, and 
started life under very favourable auspices. After a good sound 
training in the parish school, he went to college, first at Glasgow 
and subsequently at Edinburgh, to which latter place l)r 
Chalmers’ fame in those days attracted many students of theology. 
On leaving college he held a tutorship for some time. 

After he was licensed, his first appointment was that of mis¬ 
sionary to the district of Stockbridge, ,in Edinburgh. He had not 
filled that post long until the “Glasgow Church Building Society,” 
which in 18.35 began the work of church extension, appointed him 
to the pastoral charge of their newly erected church of St. Peter. 

The church was opened in May, 1836, and on 21st July fol¬ 
lowing Mr Dunn was ordained as its first minister. In this charge 
he was eminently successful. After two years of hard labour in 
this field, he was offered the appointment of assistant and successor 
to the Rev. Mr Wilson, minister of Cardross, and accepted it. 

Mr Dunn came to the parish in 1838, and succeeded to the full 
charge on Mr Wilson’s death, in 1S39. Those were stirring times 
in the history of the kirk of Scotland—the “Ten Years’ Conflict” 
was in full swing, and in the parish of Cardross as elsewhere 
party feeling ran high ; and while Mr Dunn sympathized to a 
certain extent with the “ non-intrusion ” party, yet, when the 
crisis came in 1843, he could not see it to be his duty to desert 
the Church of his fathers, so he remained by it and kept the great 
bulk of his comoreo-ation with him. After that time he took 

~ O 

little share in the public affairs of the Church, henceforth devot¬ 
ing himself to the work of his parish and to the furthering of the 
interests of the Church in his neighbourhood. When the districts 


54 


CARDRORS. 


of Renton and Dalreoch, within the bounds of his parish, grew too 
populous for their spiritual interests to be properly attended to 
even by his unwearied zeal and energy, he set himself to the task 
of securing their disjunction and endowment as quoad sacra 
parishes, and he never halted till that was accomplished. 

Forty years before his demise, Mr Dunn married Miss Croil, 
step-daughter of Mr Donaldson of Keppoch, who by her admirable 
tact, womanly sympathy, and unflagging zeal in well-doing, 
strengthened her husband’s hands in the parish mightily. In 
1877, feeling the approach of those infirmities incidental to advanc¬ 
ing years, Mr Dunn appointed as his assistant the Rev. William 
Maxwell, M.A., then just licensed ; and four years later, to meet 
the wishes of the congregation, who were desirous to secure Mr 
Maxwell’s services permanently, Mr Dunn consented to his being 
ordained assistant and successor. For a few years before his 
lamented demise Mr Dunn resided at Helensburgh, but there he 
forgot not his old parishioners. He often visited them, to joy 
with them in their joy and sorrow with them in their sorrow. 

Of a verity, when Mr Dunn died on 8th December, 1885, aged 
74 years, he left this record behind him—that he was “a man 
greatly beloved “a good man, full of the Holy Ghost and of 
faith“ a workman needing not to be ashamed of his labours.” 
Now he rests from those labours, and his works do follow him. 
On December 20th, the first Sunday after his funeral, Mr Dunn’s 
attached friend and co-presbyter, the Rev. Dr R. H. Story, of 
Rosneath, now Professor of Church History in Glasgow Univer¬ 
sity, preached his funeral sermon to a large and deeply affected 
congregation, the major portion of whom the deceased had 
baptised. His text was : “I am Alpha and Omega, the Begin¬ 
ning and the End ”—Revelations xxi., 6. 

Mr Dunn not only preached, but practised the gospel. His 
walk and conversation were becoming one who was an ambassador 
for Christ, His sermons were carefully thought out, and delivered 


CARDRORS. 


55 


with much unction. His prayers breathed the very air of 
Heaven, and bore you up on their wings to the throne of the 
Most High. I loved to listen to the old man eloquent Now he 
has entered into the rest that remaineth to the people of God. 
He is survived by his widow, a most estimable Christian lady, who 
is greatly beloved by all who know her. 

The Rev. Mr Dunn’s mortal remains are buried near the 
southern extremity of the west boundary wall of the kirkyard. 
The enclosure in which they rest has at its extremity a polished 
freestone wall divided into three pointed Gothic compartments. 
On the northmost of these there is the following inscription :— 

In memory of the Rev. William Dunn, for forty years Minister of this 
Parish. Died at Collinslea, Helensburgh, on the 8th December, 1885. 
“ My God shall supply all your need.”-^-Phil. iv., 19.” 

REV. WILLIAM MAXWELL, M.A. 

This ecclesiastic was born in the town of Hamilton thirty-five 
years ago, and he received his early education at its academy. 
From there he proceeded to the University of Glasgow, where he 
made a good record. In particular, he was successful in gaining 
the Dowanhill prize of <£21. He was licensed by the Presbytery 
of Hamilton in November, 1877, and on the following Sunday 
he began duty at Cardross as assistant to the late minister of the 
parish, the Rev. William Dunn. In February, 1881, lie was 
ordained as assistant and successor, at the unanimous request of 
the congregation and with the cordial consent of Mr Dunn. 

Between the two ministers the most friendly relations existed. 
As remarked by Mr Maxwell, in his sermon on the Sunday after 
Mr Dunn’s death, the relationship in which they stood to each 
other was not like that of colleagues, but more like that of father 
and son. The Rev. Mr Maxwell succeeded to the full charge of 
the parish in December, 1885. 

The parish minister is a member of Cardross Parochial Board, 


56 


CARDROSS. 


in the conduct of the affairs of which he takes a warm interest, as 
he does also in regard to all other matters calculated to advance 
the spiritual, intellectual, and temporal interests of his parishion¬ 
ers. The reverend gentleman is much beloved by his Hock, and 
on the occasion of his recent marriage he received tangible tokens 
of their esteem in the shape of a handsome present and an illum¬ 
inated address. 


JEAN WATSON, alias MRS MOORE, 

certainly ranks among the most notable of all the people of Oar- 
dross, past or present. I know not where Mrs Moore’s mortal 
relics lie, but I cannot do wrong in giving her biography in con¬ 
nection with my description of the God’s Acres of the parish to 
which her munificent “ Mortification” has been so helpful. 

Her origin was lowly. In the opening of her womanhood she 
became a domestic servant in the household of Whitehill of 
Keppoch. While there she had been in the habit of betimes giving 
her indigent mother, who lived in the neighbourhood, a small piece 
of salt beef out of the barrel which contained the farmer’s 
“ mart.” One dark winter morning, by mistake, she took from 
thence a fine tongue, which was pickled exclusively for her 
master’s use, and handed it to her mother. It was not lonj}‘ till 
Jean found out her error, and then she proceeded hot foot to 
the maternal domicile ; but, alas, all too late to rescue the tongue 
from the teeth of the spoiler—it had been partly eaten. Over¬ 
whelmed with a sense of impending disgrace, the erring maiden 
fled from the house in haste, but her flight was arrested at the 
burn of Auchinfroe, which was in spate. While sitting discon¬ 
solately upon its banks, she is said to have vowed that if ever she 
had the means she would “ build a brig o’er the burn,” which in 
her brighter days she did—and placed upon it a tablet with this 
inscription : “Jean Watson. Not we, but God,” which can still 
be seen on its north parapet wall. 


CARDROSS. 


The heroine of my little tale found her way to Leith, where she 
was married to a shipbroker named Moore, who afterwards settled 
in business in London, where he amassed a considerable fortune, 
which at his death he left to his widow. She, about the close of the 
17th century, bequeathed to the minister, heritors, and kirk session 
of Cardross, for behoof of the poor of that parish resident between 
Auchinfroe Burn and Keppoch, the sum of about ,£700, to be 
invested in land. Out of that fund the trustees, in 1708, bought 
the lands of Ballimenach, paying for the same 11,500 merks Scots, 
equivalent to £G39 sterling—or two years’ purchase of present 
rental, apart from what is received out of the estate in the shape 
of feu duties, etc. It is computed that the capital value of the 
property is fully twenty times the original cost, keeping out of 
account what may accrue to it from further feuing. 

BONTINES OF ARDOCII. 

For well on to four centuries the Bontines had been a family of 
note in the Parish of Cardross. Their erstwhile estate stretches 
from near the village of Cardross on the west to Dumbarton on 
the east. About the close of last century !S T icol Bontine conveyed 
it to his cousin, Robert Graham, second son of Graham of Gart- 
more, in whose line it in part still remains. Portions of the 
estate, however, have been already disposed of, and the rest is in 
the market, so that in all probability before long the Graham 
family as a territorial one will also go out in the parish, <k like the 

end o’ an auld sang.” The mansion house of Ardoch was in near 

< > 

proximity to Ardoch farm house, two miles or so from Dumbarton. 

EDMONSTONES OF CARDROSS PARK. 

This family, who owned Cardross Park, were connected with 
the West Indies, if I recollect aright. As far as I know, they 
have left no representatives, at least in this quarter. Their 
estates now form Kipperminshok and part of Kilmahew. Their 

E 


53 


cAnnrcoss. 


place of interment, which is now used as a mortuary, is immedi¬ 
ately to the north of the plot wherein the Rev. Mr Dunn is 
buried. The dead Ed monstones lie in a massive, square, battle- 
mented building, of about twelve feet in height. Over its wooden 
entrance door there is engraven the family coat of arms, having 
as crest a hand holding a pair of compasses, and motto on scroll, 
“ Gauge and Measure.” To the right of the door there is inscribed, 
within a circular moulding: “Charles Edmonstone of Cardross 
Park, died on the 29th November, 1827, in the 71st year of his age. 

THE GEILS FAMILY OF ARDARDAN, ARDMORE, AND GEILSTON. 

The Geils family settled in Cardross in 1798, when General 
Thomas Geils, of the Madras Artillery (son of Andrew Geils, Esq., 
merchant, Greenock), bought of his brother-in-law, William Noble, 
the properties of Ardardan and Ardmore. After the General’s 
death, Major Edward Geils, his younger son, succeeded to these 
lands, and on Hill-Ardmore built a commodious residence for him¬ 
self on a charming spot. The heritable subjects alluded to above 
continued in the family down to quite recently, when they were 
acquired by Captain Noble, C.B.R.A,, the representative of the 
Nobles of Ardardan and Ardmore, who held these and other lands 
in the parish for many centuries. 

About 1805, General Geils bought from the representatives of 
John Lennox of Antermony the lands of Geilston, and entailed 
them upon his second son, Lieut.-Colonel Thomas Geils, one of 
whose descendants is still in possession. The estate of Dumbuck, 
parish of Old Kilpatrick, was bought by the General about the 
same period from Sir Charles Edmonstone, Bart., of Duntreath, 
and settled on his eldest son, Colonel Andrew Geils, whose son, 
Captain John Edward Geils, still holds the property. He is the 
last male representative of the martial race of Geils, which gave 
for at least three generations a host of warriors to defend the 
honour and integrity of the empire. 


CARDROSS. 


59 


One of the burying places of the family is at the north end of 
the Edmonstone tomb, and is composed of a goodly-sized, carefully 
tended plot, having in front a parapet wall surmounted by a rail¬ 
ing, and at the back the boundary wall of the kirkyard, into which 
there is inserted a white marble tablet framed with freestone, 
bearing this inscription:—“In memory of Catherine Tucker, 
daughter of Joseph Tucker, merchant, and of Christina Ceils, his 
wife : died at Geilston, January 8th, 1858, aged 80, beloved and 
respected by all. £ Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord/— 
Kev. xiv., 13.” 

There are other three stones of memorial reared against the 
kirkyard wall, each having red granite slab and freestone base and 
border, standing about six feet in height. The most elaborate of 
these is the most northern. It is Gothic in style, and is sur¬ 
mounted by a cross, underneath which the family arms appear. 
At each side of the slab of this monument there is a polished grey 
granite pillar supporting the pedestal, the general effect being 
decidedly good. 

Beginning at the southmost of the three headstones, the inscrip¬ 
tions run as follows : — 

“Sacred to the memory of Thomas Geils of Geilston, Ardmore, and 
Ardardan, who died 20th November, 1869. aged 35 years, only son of the 
late Captain J. E. Geils of Geilston, and the Madras Horse Artillery.— 
Psalm cxxi.” 

“ Sacred to the memory of Thomas Edmund Geils of Geilston, Captain 
Madras Horse Artillery, born 4th Dee., 1805, died at sea 2nd Dec., 1845 ; 
and of Charlotte E. Forres, his widow, died at Greenock 25th Nov., 
1852, interred here ; and of Charlotte Mary Geils, their child, born 15th 
July, 1843, died 26th June, 1865, interred Nunhead Cemetery, London.” 

“Sacred to the memory of Thomas Geils of Geilston, Lieut.-Colonel 
II.M. 3rd Foot Guards ; born 18th January, 1777, died 28th March, 182S, 
aged 51 ; and of Dorcas Tucker, his wife, born 5th February, 1780, died 
2nd July, 1866, aged 86 ; and of Mary Pascal Geils, their daughter, born 
17th May, 1804, died — May, 1836; and of Dorcas West Geils, their 
daughter, born 21st April, 1807, died 19th October, 1867. 


60 


CARDROSS 


The other part of the God’s Acre of Cardross where members of 
the house of Geils sleep their long sleep is at the back of the 
church, in tombs to the eastward of the Dennistoun vault, into 
the east wall of which there are tablets inserted which contain the 
following inscriptions : — 

“In memory of Mary Geils, daughter of Lieut.-Colonel Thomas Geils of 
Ardmore, born 9th April, 1778, died 3rd March, 182S ; widow of Thomas 
Cooksley, Lieutenant, Madras Artillery, killed at Seringapatain, 1799; and 
of Courtney Crow Kenny, Captain H.M. 9th Foot, killed at Burgos 1812. 

In memory of Lieut.-General Geils of Ardmore, son of Andrew Geils, 
Esq., merchant, Greenock, and of Catherine Donald, his wife, daughter of 
Thomas Donald, Esq., of Geilston ; born 20th July, 1747, died at Ardmore 
24th October, 1815, after a long and distinguished service in the H.E.I. 
Company’s Artillery, Madras Presidency ; and in memory of Mary Pascal, 
his wife.” 

“In memory of Edward Geils, Esq., of Ardmore, Major H.M. 19th 
Light Dragoons (Lancers) ; born 21st February, 1779, died 12th February, 
1836 ; youngest son of Lieut.-General Thomas Geils of Ardmore.” 

“In memory of Joseph Tucker Geils, Major H.E.I.C.S., 60th Regiment 
B.N.I.; born at Geilston, November 22, 1808, died at Geilston, October 
18th, 1871.—‘ Looking unto Jesus.’—Heb. xii, 2.” 

“ To the memory of Jessie (Janet), the beloved wife of Captain J. T. Geils, 
60th Regiment, B.N.I., who was removed from this world of care and sorrow 
at Landour, East India, on the 6th of June, 1850, and is here interred. 

‘ But, ye beloved, building up yourselves in your most holy faith, praying 
in the Holy Ghost, keep yourselves in the love of God, looking for the 
mercy of our Lord Jesus Christ unto eternal life.’ ” 

“ Sacred to the memory of Mary Ann Evans Kenny (grand-daughter of 
Lieut.-General Thomas Geils of Ardmore), wife of Lieut.-Colonel Edward 
Evans Kenny, died at Ardoch, Cardross, 3rd April, 1875 ; and of Lieut. 
Colonel Edward E. Kenny, 89th Regiment, died at Liverpool, 12th Jan., 
1879; and of their son, Edward Geils Courtenay Kenny, Lieutenant H. M. 
84th Regiment, died at sea in the Bay of Bengal, March, 1856 ; and of their 
son, Henry thomas William Oxley Kenny, Lieutenant H.M 84th Reo-i- 
ment, died at Cawnpore 24th August, 1857, with his regiment, under the 
general command of Sir Henry Havelock.” 


CARDROSS. 


G1 


“In memory of Nathan Wilson, K.H., Lieut.-Colonel H.M. 4tli Light 
Dragoons, died in London, 1st August, 1847, aged 69-re-interred here 
January 81st., 187*2 ; and of Jane Turner, Ids wife, died and is buried at 
Kaira, E.I., Sept. 16, 1814, aged 30 ; and of William John, their son, born 
at Bombay, Aug.27th, 1810, died 14tli May, 1S11 ; and of Jane Catherine, 
their daughter, born at Kaira, E.I., Sept 11th, 1814, died at Boulogne Sur- 
Mer, January 14th, 1842—re-interred here January 31st., 1872. ‘The 
Lord redeemeth the soul of his servants.’—Psalm xxxiv., 22.” 

Colonel Wilson was nephew of General Geils, Ardmore. 

It may interest some of my readers to know that before General 
Geils bought Geilston, Dr Moore, of Glasgow, rented the mansion 
house of the estate from Mr Donald, its then owner; and during 
the doctor’s tenancy, his son, the great Sir John Moore of song 
and story, was when a boy nearly drowned in the Geilston Burn. 

THE AUCIIINFROE FAMILY BURYING PLACE. 

Still moving northwards, we come to an enclosed tomb (a repeat 
of that of the Edmonstones). Over its door lintel there is cutout 
in the stone, “John MTnnes, Esq., of Auchenfroe, 1837.” In 
looking through the iron gate of entrance there is to be seen to 
the left a white marble table stone of remembrance, bearing on its 
face an inscription which I have failed to get an opportunity of 
transcribing. 

There is another monument in the building, also of white marble, 
which stands to the right of the one described. It was erected in 
1831 by Miss M‘Innes, in affectionate remembrance of her nurse, 
Felicity Oglevie (a negress), a native of the West Indies, who 
died at Auchenfroe, 22nd May, 1829, aged 19 years, beloved and 
respected by all who knew her. The inscription on this stone can 
be read from the outside of the building, through its iron entrance 
gate. 

Mr M‘Innes was a wealthy West India merchant, sometime of 
Grenada. His wife was Isabella TJrquhart. They had an only 
child, Agnes Joanna MTnnes, who was married to E. S. Gordon, 


02 


CARDROSS. 


advocate, afterward Lord Advocate of Scotland, and latterly 
Judge of Appeal in the Law Courts of London. 

On selling Auchenfroe to Mr Burns, the family retained a small 
cottage which stands on the estate near the railway, so as to still 
hold some little interest in the parish, in which for a period they 
played an important part. 

JAMES DONALDSON OF KEPPOCII, 

born at Nether bank Hill, Redgorton, Perthshire, 15th July, 1788, 
died at Keppoch, 2nd April, 1875 ; and of Jane Richardson, his 
wife, born at Glasgow, 24th September, 1790, died at Keppoch 
10th March, 1882.—In peace. “Here we have no continuing- 
city, but we seek one to come.”—Hebrews xii., 14. 

So runs the inscription on the laird’s tombstone. Mr Donald¬ 
son’s body is buried at the southern extremity of the west wall of 
the graveyard, beside members of the Croil family and the Rev. 
Mr Dunn. The front portion of the space wherein they lie is 
fenced off by a low parapet wall and ornamental iron railing. 

Mr Donaldson was a most amiable county gentleman, of the old 
courtly school. He was a universal favourite. He contributed 
very liberally towards the erection and endowment of the quoad 
sacra churches of Renton and Dalreoch, as well as to the 
general schemes of the Church of Scotland and other laudable 
objects. 

In Dalreoch Church there is a beautiful tablet erected to his 
memory. The design of this work of art is in the form of an orna¬ 
mental Gothic arch, of Cayenne stone, having red streaked marble 
pillars, and with marble slab set in arch, on which is the following 
inscription :— 

“ In honour of James Donaldson of Keppoch, who (besides largely con¬ 
tributing to the Church), in conjunction with the Endowment Committee 
of the Church of Scotland, munificently erected the district into the Parish 
of Dalreoch in the year 1873. ‘ Blessed are ye who sow beside all waters.’ 

Isaiah 32, 20.” 


CARDROSS. 


G3 


Mr Donaldson, early in his business career, became a clerk in the 
head office of Mr Croil, West India merchant, Glasgow. In course 
of time he was dispatched as book-keeper to the estate owned by the 
firm in the West Indies. After a period of time thus spent he 
returned to Glasgow, and, his employer having died, he succeeded 
him in his wife, family, and business, and possibly also in a slice 
of his fortune. 


MRS ALEXANDER WYLIE OF CORDALE. 

N ear the north-west extremity of the God’s Acre of the parish 
there is to be seen, reared over the lowly tomb of Mrs Wylie, a 
monument of quite exceptional excellence. It is of Gothic design, 
in the form of the pointed arch, standing seven feet or so high. 
The lowermost step of the same is of grey granite, and the super¬ 
incumbent portion is of white Sicilian marble, elaborately carved 
and beautifully proportioned. This stone of memorial has on it 
the following inscription :— 

“In memory of Annie Mylrea Wylie, wife of Alex. Wylie of Cordale, 
who died 16th November, 1883, aged 27 years. To relieve the poor and 
needy, to minister by the bedsides of the sick and suffering, to gladden and 
elevate Renton, ‘ She did what she could.’—Mark xiv., 8.” 

The sculptors are Messrs J. & G. Mossman, Glasgow. 

Having given this most excellent lady’s life history in a former 
work of mine, I will content myself with merely appending one or 
two sentences which arose in my mind spontaneously after penning 
the above. 

Mysterious are the ways of God. Here was one of his minister- 
inor angels, whose life was devoted to the doing of good, cut down 
ere her life had reached its meredian. It is just possible that her 
sudden removal from the activities of this life may have been the 
means, in the good providence of God, of impressing upon many 
careless ones the necessity of being prepared for death, judgement, 
and eternity. Oft-times the good die first, and they whose 


Cl 


CARDIlOSS. 


hearts are dry as summer dust burn to the socket.” The spiritual 
seed Mrs Wylie scattered so liberally is still growing in the souls 
of many, and blessing hundreds of humble hearts in the Yale of 
Leven which but for her agency might have been given over to 
darkness and despair. If “To live in hearts we leave behind is 
not to die,” then Annie Mylrea Wylie in her nobler escence still 
dwells amongst us, a powerful factor for good. 

TOMB OF THE BAINS OF BAINFIELD. 

Beyond the monument erected to the memory of Mrs Wylie 
there is the enclosed burying place of the above family. Its plain 
walls are about eight feet in height, and access is obtained to the 
ground within its bounds by an iron gate, through the bars of 
which I could see nothing, by reason of the bramble and other 
bushes which grew thickly within. When the affairs of the 
Napier lairds of Kilmahew, by reason of extravagance and litiga¬ 
tion, began to get involved, several portions of their at one time 
large domain were feued, set at long lease, or otherwise alienated. 
The portion known as Bainfield w r as purchased by the Bain family. 
Colonel Bain inherited the property from a relative—Miss Bain. 
From him it passed to his son, Edwin Sandys Bain, sergeant-at- 
law, whose heirs disposed of it recently to Mr Burns of Kilmahew. 
The sergeant died at his estate of Li\ elands, near Stirling, 30th 
December, 1874, and is buri'ed in the kirkyard of St. Ninians, and 
this country side knoweth the Bains of Bainfield no longer. 

The farthest north of the tombs abutting on the "west wall of 
the kirkyard is that wherein sleeps 

HUGH MOODY ROBERTSON EWING. 

It is a sweet resting place beneath the green sod and the quiet, 
meek faced daisies. There is erected on that spot to his memory 
a white marble Latin cross, resting on three bases of the same 
material. The combined whole stands five feet high, On the 


CARDROSS. 


arms of the cross there is inscribed : “ Blessed are the poor in 
heart,” and two of the bases contain what follows :— 

“In loving memory of Hugh Moody Robertson Ewing, born at Liver¬ 
pool 18th December, 1859 ; Died at Cardross 2nd December, 1889.” 

The deceased was a member of the firm of John Orr Ewing & 

.O 

Co., turkey red dyers, Alexandria (of which his uncle, John Orr 
Ewing, was principal partner). He was also Major of the local 
Volunteer Rifles, and was esteemed highly by everyone who knew 
him. He has left a widow and family, and troops of friends, to 
mourn over his early withdrawal into the land of silence and 
forgetfulness. 


BURNS FAMILY OF KILMAHEW AND CUMBERNAULD. 

Their place of sepulture is situated at the north-west corner of 
the graveyard. The boundary wall, which here has been formed 
into a floral Gothic monument of many compartments, presents a 
very imposing appearance. Into the western wall there is inserted 
a red granite slab bearing this inscription :—“ In memory of Jane 
Bayly O’Halloran, widow of General Sir C. Moyle Slierer, K.C. 
S.I. Hied 22nd November, 1887, aged 73.” Upon the north 
wall, beneath the family arms, there is inscribed as follows :—“In 
Memory of James Burns of Kilmahew, sixth son of Rev. John 
Burns, H.D., of Barony, Glasgow, and Elizabeth Stevenson ; born 
25th June, 1789, died 6th Sept., 1871 ; and of his wife Margaret, 
daughter of William Shortridge and Elizabeth Yuille ; born 17th 
September, 1794, died 6th March, 1880.” 

James Burns, first of the family to settle in this district, was 
sixth son of the Rev. Dr. John Burns, minister of the Barony 
Parish, Glasgow, for the long period of seventy-two years, and 
who died in 1835, aged ninety-six years. James Burns, who was 
born in 1789, became engaged, in 1824, in conjunction with his 
youngest brother, George, in the steam navigation business, then 
assuming considerable dimensions. Shortly afterwards they 


G6 


CAliDHOSS. 


founded the Cunard Company, of world-wide reputation. The 
inception of the operations of the company was due to Mr S. 
Cunard, whose name was given to the undertaking ; hut it was 
in great measure due to the Messrs Burns’ tact, enterprise, and 
capital, that the undertaking became an accomplished fact. Of 
recent years the Cunard Company has become one of limited 
liability, but the Burns family still holds a large stake in the 
concern. 

In the evening of his days, Mr James Burns retired from the 
management of the noble business he had done so much to found 
and develope ; but for all that, as a landed proprietor, a Deputy- 
Lieutenant of the County of Dumbarton, a leading member of the 
Free Church, and as a man having many investments to look after, 
he led by no means an idle life. It may literally be said that 
when, on September 6th, 1871, he received the summons to de¬ 
part this life, he died in harness, aged eighty-two years. 

Incidentally it may here be noticed that his brother and partner, 
Sir George Burns, Bart., died 2nd June, 1890, aged ninety-five 
years. 

James Burns was a man of large views and great liberality. He 
was a munificent supporter of the home and foreign schemes of 
the Fi •ee Church of Scotland. A few years before his death he, 
in conjunction with his son, John William, now of Kilmahew and 
Cumbernauld, built a new Free Church at Cardross, in the early 
English style of architecture, which is quite an ornament to the 
village. 

James Burns, by his wife, Margaret, daughter of William Short- 
ridge of Levenfield, Yale of Leven (one of whose forebears was 
Walter Spreul, Seneschal of the Lennox in the days of Wallace), 
left one son, John William, mentioned above, who now owns most 
of the territory which erstwhile belonged to the Napiers of Kil¬ 
mahew and several other old families—and a fair domain these 
make. 


cardross. 


67 


Nigh to the ruined castle of Kilmahew, of old the goodly resi¬ 
dence of the Napiers, the new laird has erected a mansion house 
which, for beauty of situation and design, quite excels any other 

in the parish. 

In many ways John William Burns has greatly improved his 
various estates since they came into his hands. He has lavished 
money upon them to good purpose. 

On the 10th December, 1861, the laird of Kilmahew was 
married to Helen, only daughter of General Sir C. Moyle Slierer, 
Iv.C.S.I, having issue James, Captain Royal Horse Guards ; John 
William, Lieutenant 3rd King’s Own Hussars ; also Helen Slierer 
and Margaret Shortridge. His daughter Helen Slierer was 
married on 5th February, 1891, to Captain Archibald Spencer 
Drummond, Scots Guards. 

In 1875 Mr J. W. Burns bought the fine estate of Cumbernauld, 
so long associated with the historic family of Fleeming, Earls of 
Wigtown and Lords Fleeming, paying for the same £160,000. 

The laird of Ivilmahew and Cumbernauld is a Justice of the 
Peace and Deputy Lieutenent for the County of Dumbarton. He 
is also chairman of Cardross School Board. He was for many 
years chairman of Cardross Parochial Board. He takes a deep 
and intelligent interest in all matters affecting the weal of the 
county in which he has such a heavy stake. ‘In politics Mr 
Burns is and always has been a Liberal, and in that interest con¬ 
tested for the representation of the county unsuccessfully, but for 
all that he made a good fight for it. 

NOBLES OF FERME AND ARDARDAN. 

The burying place of this old county family is at the north¬ 
western margin of the churchyard, immediately to the eastward of 
the Kilmahew burying ground. The place of sepulture is guarded 
in front by a low wall and an ornamental iron railing. The back 
is protected by the boundary wall of the graveyard, which is at 


68 


' CARDR0SS. 


this point, as at several others, of hewn masonry of good design. 
Under the central portion of the back wall, which is raised some¬ 
what above the ordinary level, there is a rough, square block of 
freestone inserted, evidently with a view to the arms of the 
family being engraven thereon. To the left of this there is a 
grey granite slab in the wall bearing the following inscriptions 

“ In Memory of Isabella Duncanson Noble, daughter of William 
Noble, Esq., formerly of Ardardan—born 12th January, 1830 : died at 
Brooks, 17th February, 1870; also her two last surviving brothers, 
Lieutenant-Colonel John Noble, C.B., Commander of Madras Horse 
Artillery, born 15th June, 1776 : died loth July, 1827 ; Lieutenant-Colonel 
James Noble, Madras Native Infantry, born 28th July, 1788 : died 30th 
April, 1877, in camp, while Commanding a Brigade M.N.I.—Jesus said : 
‘ I am the ressurection and the life. He that believeth on Me, though 
dead, yet shall he live.’ ” 

The family of Noble of Ferine (near Rutherglen) has been 
connected with the parish of Cardross since about the year 1500, 
at which period it is known that Ardardan-Noble belonged to a 
member of that ancient house. In 1537 James Noble of Ferine 
became possessed of Ardardan Lyle (or wester), in whose family 
it remained till 1708, when it was sold to James Donald, first of 
Lyleston. Quite recently, Captain Noble, C.B.R.A., a descendant 
of James Noble, bought the property from the representative of 
James Donald. Ardardan-Noble, or Mid-Ardardan, continued, 
along with the estate of Ardmore, in the hands of male represen¬ 
tatives of the family of Noble till 1798, when William Noble sold 
both of these properties to his brother-in-law, General Thomas 
Ceils. These estates, after having been out of the hands of the 
family of Noble for close upon a century, have also just been 
re-acquired by Captain Noble, C.B.R.A., one of the most eminent 
scientists of the day, and a leading member of Lord Armstrong’s 
firm, Newcastle-on-Tyne. 

In 1630 William Noble became the possessor of the lands of 


CAR DROSS. C9 

Ballimenoch, but his grandson in 1708 sold the same to Mrs 
Moore’s trustees, in whose hands they still remain. 

In this year of grace, 1891, the Nobles are once more territo¬ 
rial grandees of no mean order in the parish of Cardross, with 
which maugre the interruption spoken of, they have been in 
timately connected for over three hundred years. This consum¬ 
mation affords food for pleasant reflection, and also for moralizing 
on the rise and fall of families, and the mutation of all earthly 
things. 


THE DENNISTOUNS OF COLGRAIN. 

Under a projection from the north side or back of the Parish 
Church there' is a Norman arch of fine proportions, over which 
there is engraved, “Burial Vault of the Dennistouns of Colgrain.” 
The ancient, knightly family of Dennistouns of that ilk rose to 
distinction many centuries ago. Janet Dennistoun, by her 
marriage with Sir Adam Mure of Rowallan, became the mother 
of Elizabeth Mure, who married Robert-the Steward of Scotland, 
and gave rise to the proud boast of the house of Dennistoun, 
“ Kings have come of us, not we of Kings.” At the death, in 
1399, of Sir Robert Dennistoun of that ilk, the male stem of the 
family was represented by the Colgrain branch of it. After about 
a score of members of said family had in succession enjoyed 
possession of the estate, James Dennistoun, sixteenth in descent 
from William first of Colgrain, in the year 183G, sold it and Camis- 
eskan to Colin Campbell, a cadet of the house of Breadalbane, 
whose son is now laird. Mr Dennistoun at same time purchased 
Dennistoun Mains, Renfrewshire, the j 3 roperty from which his old 
and distinguished familv took their name. James Dennistoun 
was a man of refined tastes, who made many valuable contribu¬ 
tions to art and general history literature. He died 14th February, 
1855, and, being childless, was succeeded by his nephew, James 
Wallis, R.N., born in 1839 (son of his brother George), who is 




70 


CAR DROSS. 


the present representative of the Dennistouns of that ilk, a family 
which has, in the lapse of centuries, produced many men of great 
mark and likelihood. James Dennistoun’s remains are interred 
in Edinburgh, where he died. At his request they were laid in the 
Greyfriars Churchyard, in the burial place of a former Sir 
Robert Dennistoun of Mount joy, instead of in the family vault 
at Cardross. 


DONALDS OF LYLESTON. 

The property of Lyleston was held from 1466 to 1537 by mem¬ 
bers of Lord Lyle’s family, when it was conveyed to James Noble 
of Ferme, in whose family it remained till 1708, when it was sold 
to James Donald, first of the Lyleston Donalds. In 1780 a 
William Donald held the estate, and it remained in the hands of 
his descendants down to 1890, when it passed again into the hands 
of the Nobles. The Donalds were engaged in the shipping 
and tobacco business—one of them, Robert Donald of Mount 
Blow, Lord Provost of Glasgow, being known as one of the tobacco 
lords. 

The last man of the Donald family who died owner of Lyleston 
was possibly the most notable man of the race, and to his life I 
devote considerable space. The following notice, with the exception 
of the portion at the end relating to the Rev. D. Macalister Donald, 
B.D., is extracted from the columns of the Helensburgh and 
Gareloch Times , of date June 9, 1880. The newspaper article 
goes on to speak thus of the distinguished gentleman alluded to : 

WILLIAM MACALISTER DONALD OF LYLESTON. 

On the 5th of May, 1880, were carried to their final resting 
place, in Cardross Churchyard, the mortal remains of one whose 
face and figure must have been familiar to many of our readers. 
We refer to William Macalister Donald, Esq., of Lyleston, some 
time H.B.M. Vice-Consul in Ferrara. The last few years of his life 


CARDROSS. 


71 


were spent among us in quiet retirement, and there were probably 
few who had any idea that in his younger years he was wont to 
stand foremost amid the exciting scenes of a public life such as is 
happily unknown in our peaceful country. Yet, though compara¬ 
tively unknown in the land of his birth, his name is cherished in 
the land of his adoption; and there, as they hear of his death, old 
men will repeat to their children the story of Signor Guilielmo, the 
English Consul, who, in the days of the Austrians, saved Ferrara 
from bombardment. 

He did not profess the qualities necessary for the public life of 
this country. He laid no claim to cleverness. He was impatient 
of constitutional procedure. He could not fawn or conciliate, but 
he could brave unpopularity. On one occasion he drove in his 
carriage through a threatening mob of his fellow citizens, and 
carried supplies to a garrison of Austrians whom they were 
beseigiug. He came to the front as natural leader in a state of 
society where the qualities that ruled were physical strength and 
personal bravery, a will that determines, and an energy that 
carries out. The old man who at 78 used to spend the whole day 
upon the moors ; the young man who at 20 applied his strength 
to a burden till his left arm was drawn from its socket, was made 
of the right metal for the rough work of troublous times. 

The story of his career is interesting, as giving us a peep behind 
the scenes of public life, and showing us how things are managed 
in times of anarchy. 

The deceased gentleman was born in 1797 at Auchencarroch, in 
the parish of Bonhill, where the Macalisters had been established 
for more than 200 years. His mother was a Donald of Lyleston, 
to which latter property he succeeded in 1852, when he had to 
assume the name of Donald. In 1815 he left this country for 
Newfoundland. The following incident is characteristic of what 
Colonial office life must have been in those days. On the first 
Sunday after his arrival his Governor cut off the tails of his coat 


CARDROSS. 


7 ° 

with the remark that jackets were good enough for youngsters, 
and that church-going was for his betters. During his stay in St. 
John’s there occurred two revolutions, caused by the Irish fisher¬ 
men. On one occasion they burned down 300 houses, and during 
one of these outbursts Mr Macalister first witnessed the power of 
Rome. He was afterwards to learn its impotence in the Papal 
territory itself. The Irish mob and the military were standing 
face to face. The canons were aimed and the matches fired, but 
all in vain, when the priests came bearing a crucifix and scattered 
them all with a word. 

On Christmas eve, 1818, he left Newfoundland in a small craft. 
There were 13 in all on board, On the fourth day from leaving 
port the vessel was cast upon her beam ends. They had to cut 
away the masts. She was broken and water-logged, and only 
kept afloat by her cargo, which consisted of oil. For 28 days she 
was driven about a helpless wreck. They had no fire ; they were 
cold and wet; they drank the snow and fed upon raw food. 
Four of them died, and they were all fast sinking, when, on the 
26th of January, land was sighted, and an old fisherman recog¬ 
nised that it was the harbour of Oban, to which a kind providence 
had directed them. 

Four years afterwards, MrMacalister was established in Ferrara, 
in the Papal states, as a hemp merchant, dealing mainly with the 
British Government. For a store he hired a church, and for 
workmen he employed the very lowest of the population. These 
were men under police supervision, who were locked up every 
night to keep them out of mischief. Naturally enough, such 
treatment demoralised them more and more. Mr Macalister took 
as many of these poor fellows into his employment as he could. 
He obtained their release by becoming responsible for their good 
conduct. He put the men on their honour, and he never was de¬ 
ceived. 

The following incident, though it occurred later on in his 


CARDROSS. 


73 


career, will serve to show how even a ruffian trusts a man who 
puts his confidence in him :—A notorious brigand, by name 
Lauzoni, had fired across the Po from a village called Stellata at 
the Austrian sentinels on the other side. Orders were given to 
bombard the village. Consul Macalister was appealed to as the 
one man whose influence was paramount at the Austrian head¬ 
quarters. He investigated the case, and after much trouble 
obtained the promise that the village should be spared if the per¬ 
petrator were delivered within ten days. Seven days passed ; 
the police had failed to find the man. Mr Macalister obtained 
information as to his whereabouts, went to him alone, reasoned 
with him, and promised that if he would give himself up all would 
come right in the end. The man trusted his word. He was con¬ 
demned to be shot; then pardoned and sent home safe. On an¬ 
other occasion, his carriage was stopped at night on the road to 
Bologna. A brigand entered. When he discovered who the 
occupant of the carriage was, he started back abashed. “ I beg 
your pardon, I did not know it was you, sir ”; and then, after a 
moment’s thought, “ I think it is better that I should mount with 
the driver, as the roads are not safe to-night. ” The next carriage, 
containing a priest, was attacked and robbed. As a consequence 
of his growing popularity he incurred the enmity of the Jesuits, 
and in 1832 he found it necessary for self-protection to apply for 
a Consular diploma. The appointment was purely honorary, but 
it gave him a position among a proud local nobility, and in the 
troublous times that followed, he was able to use it to effect. 

The years 1848 and 1849 were years of revolution for the 
whole of Europe. Nowhere was the excitement more intense than 
in the north of Italy. Ferrara had renounced its allegiance to the 
Pope, and had constituted itself a Republic. The Austrians, how¬ 
ever, held the fortress and dominated the city. Matters came to 
a crisis when one da}- an escort of Austrian troops were over¬ 
powered and murdered in the streets. The house of the Austrian 

F 


74 


CARDROSS. 


Consul was wrecked, and he himself only escaped by flight. The 
mob came along crying “ Death to the Consuls.” It stopped 
before the British Consulate. The Consul was cheered. All they 
wanted from him was a rope to tear down the arms of the Duke 
of Modena from the next door. There and then the arms of 
Austria, Naples, and Modena were burned, amid the yells of an 
infuriated populace. 

Consul Macalister now found himself in the trying position of 
popular favourite in a seditious Republic which had renounced 
allegiance to the Sovereign Pontiff and defied the power of Austria. 
The blood of the murdered soldiers was still reeking in the streets 
when the word of vengeance went forth, and Marshal Haynau, 
the never-to-be-forgotten devastator of Hungary, came down upon 
the city like an avalanche with 15,000 men. 

On the morning of the 19th February, 1849, Mr Macalister 
went in the ordinary course of business to Bologna, thirty miles 
distant from Ferrara. In the evening he came tearing home, as 
fast as his horses could wend their way, through a miscellaneous 
crowd of fugitives. The bankers were fleeing with their money, 
the merchants with their goods, the people with their lives. The 
cavalry had already surrounded the city, and it was only as wear¬ 
ing the Queen’s uniform that Mr Macalister could obtain an 
entrance. Two despatches awaited him, one from Haynau, 
announcing that the bombardment would begin next day at 
twelve o’clock ; the other from Cardinal Archbishop Vanacelli, 
requesting that he should join a deputation to the marshal. 
Haynau informed the deputation that he had instructions to levy 
a fine of .£45,000, and in event of failure of payment within 
twelve hours, to bombard the city. 

The Archbishop protested and implored, but Haynau had not 
come there to hear sermons. “Money,” he repeated, “ or bom¬ 
bardment." Without having gained a hearing, without even the 
most ordinary courtesy, the deputation was dismissed, When 


CARDROSS. 


75 

the others had left, Haynau drew Consul Macalister away with 
him to Ids private apartments. 

It is necessary here to explain the secret of Mr Macalister’s 
influence with the Austrians. None of the diplomatic body could 
understand it, and it was all the more inexplicable as Lord Pal- 
merston was intensely hated. His influence rested, in the first 
place, on a close personal intimacy with several of the Austrian 
Commanders, especially with Field-Marshal Count Nugent, Field- 
Marshal Radctzky, Marshals Wimpfen, Shairn, and Welden, and 
all men in the first position in the Austrian army. The corres¬ 
pondence with these officers is full of references to family matters, 
and of arrangements for shooting parties, and this in the midst 
of public business of the most important kind. These men were 
desirous of peace, and in Consul Macalister they found a man 
who possessed the confidence of the Italians, and who, at the same 
time, was raised above the popular passions and prejudices. It is 
well known that many a dispute may be arranged in a quiet 
tete-a-tete that would otherwise have to be fought out upon a 
battlefield. In this irregular way Consul Macalister was enabled 
to act the part of a peacemaker. All he did was informal and 
unconstitutional, but he executed the duties of his difficult task 
with an uprightness of purpose that gained for him the esteem 
and gratitude of both sides. 

The interview with Haynau lasted well on into the night. 
Consul Macalister used every sort of argument to dissuade from 
the bombardment. The money would be forthcoming the moment 
the wealthy citizens returned. He could at once have any amount 
in promissory notes, but Haynau would have hard cash, and he 
would have it immediately, and if they did not give it with a good 
will he would force it at the point of the bayonet. Personally, 
he had no dislike to sacking a city, and he knew his soldiers 
enjoyed it, poor fellows u Then,” said the Consul, “ there are 
plenty of good shots among the young men who will pick off your 


76 


CARDR0S9. 


officers with their rifles.” But this did not do either. “ Then 
give me time to post to Radctzky ; ” but Haynau would not hear 
of it. At last, when every argument had failed, the map of 
Ferrara was produced, and the final arrangement made for the 
bombardment. There were to be no bombs sent in the direction 
of the British Consulate, but “ That old fool,” the Archbishop, 
was to be honoured with a regular serenade. Three carriages 
were put at the disposal of the British Consulate, to convey his 
family to the country. As the family consisted of an only 
daughter, the arrangement proved a great boon to the friends of 
the house. 

When Mr Macalister returned from the fortress, he intimated 
to the citizens that he feared the bombardment was inevitable. 
The only thing that might avert it would be to gather what 
money they could. By the morning they had only succeeded in 
gathering a third of the amount. Consul Macalister brought it 
to Haynau, but he seemed more angered than otherwise. He 
would have every penny, or he would bombard the city. The 
argument of the preceding evening was resumed. Consul Mac¬ 
alister represented that he was about to destroy the city for a 
mere quibble, as he might have the amount on paper. Haynau 
replied that there was not a man in the city whose bills would be 
recognised by the Austrian authorities. Consul Macalister 
thanked him for the compliment ; he thought that the Comman- 
der-in-Chief—Radctzky—would take it as an insult to himself if 
his (Macalister’s) bills were rejected, more especially when Hay¬ 
nau had come with letters referring, in the most eulogistic terms, 
to the British Consul’s former services to the Austrians. “Then, if 
you give me your own promissory notes to the required amount, 
that decides the matter ; I must accept them, and to tell the 
truth I am heartily glad the business is over,” and thereupon he 
took his hand and shook it warmly. For fourteen days the Aus¬ 
trian army lay before the city. All the correspondence was 


CARDROSS. 


77 


directly with the British Consul. The Austrians would have 
nothing to do with the Republican authorities. Every morning 
there came in a curious document from Haynau. “ So much 
bread, so much fodder, so much wine, &c. If it is not delivered 
by four o’clock the bombardment will begin at five.” But at last 
the day of departure came. The authorities were summoned. 
Haynau told them publicly to whom they owed their delivery ; 
then the troops were drawn up in line. The Marshall and 
Mr Macalister rode along the line. Said Haynau, “ These are 
the finest troops in the world They would follow me to the 
pit and fetch out old Satan himself.” Then they all crossed. 
Haynau and Consul Macalister had their last bottle of wine 
together ; then they embraced and kissed (as is the fashion of the 
country) and parted. The scene ended in comedy. Mr Macalis¬ 
ter hastened with the good news to the poor old Cardinal. The 
old man was lying on a couch. He raised himself to embrace his 
benefactor, who bowed himself and slipped so that down on the 
floor came couch, Cardinal, and Consul. 

The troubles of the Republic were not yet ended. Haynau 
had hardly left when Count Thurn appeared before the city with 
12,000 men, and demanded the immediate expulsion of the Presi¬ 
dent, the resignation of the Government, and the return to 
allegiance to the Pope. The manifesto was sent in the morning* 
and by twelve o’clock the artillery was to open fire upon the City 
if the demands were not complied with. The members of the 
Government were besieged by the mob and so intimidated that 
they could not decide one thing or another. Mr Macalister was 
appealed to. He saw there was nothing for it but to deli\ er the 
city into the hands of the Austrians by a coup d'etat. He took 
his own council, w T ent to Colonel Guidetti, the commander of the 
Civic Guard, arranged w T ith him to withdraw the troops as the 
Austrians advanced. Then he went to Count Thurn and told 
him he need not fire a shot, the drum w T ould do all the execution 


CAllDftOSS. 


n 

/ b 


necessary. Count Tliurn hesitated before venturing liis troops into 
the streets, but the chance was too good to lose. The Austrians 
advanced, the Civic Guard yielded their posts, the mob scattered 
at the sudden appearance of the bayonets, the wretched Republic 
was at an end, and an altogether useless contest was averted. 

For a long time after these events Mr Macalister was over¬ 
whelmed with grateful acknowledgments from all classes of the 
community. Everything had to be kept as quiet as possible owing 
to the irregularity of the proceedings. Field-Marshall Radctzky 
brought the circumstances under the notice of the Austrian 
Emperor. Lord Palmerston sent his acknowledgments, and the 
popular enthusiasm was such that when, many years afterwards, 
he returned as £ stranger to the city he was mobbed by the people 
wishing to testify their gratitude 

We shall now bring our sketch to a close, but it is not for want 
of material. Mr Macalister had indeed reached the zenith of his 
power, but in doing so he had incurred responsibilities and dangers 
for the future. He was not the man to shrink from the former, 
or to tremble before the latter. He was destined on one occasion 
to come under the suspicion of Austria as a revolutionary agent, 
and just about the same time he was mistaken for an Austrian 
spy in Bologna, and narrowly escaped assassination. But, severest 
of all his struggles was a long and bitter contest with the Jesuits, 
and with a Roman legate, who tried to ruin his good name. He 
had the satisfaction of witnessing the Jesuit College being forced 
by a company of young men, who compelled the Holy Fathers to 
treat them, and then packed them off to Rome; and as to the 
Roman legate, he was recalled and compelled to leave the town 
in disgrace. 

From want of space we have refrained from transcribing any of 
the correspondence which otherwise would have illustrated and 
added interest to the narative. As a specimen, we give the follow* 
ing letter from the Papal Secretary of State, which will show the 


CARDROSS. 


79 


high consideration in which Mr Macalister was held, even before 
his great services at the time of the threatened bombardment in 
1849. He had been applied to with the view of obtaining the 
withdrawal of the Austrian troops from the Pope’s territory. 

Rome, 6th Sept., 1848. 

Signor Consul,—I have been informed, through onr Ambassador at the 
Court of Vienna, that you have succeeded in your mediation between our 
representative and Lieut.-Marshal Baron Welden, and thus obtained the 
complete withdrawal of the Austrian troops from the Papal territory. 

By doing so you could not but have merited the entire satisfaction of the 
Holy See, and in this instance you have again afforded evidence of your 
valuable and influential services, and of the interest H.B. M. Government 
takes in the invulnerable rights of States. , 

In rendering you all merited eulogy, 1 have to express our sincere thanks 
due to you on this occasion, and it is with much pleasure that I take advan¬ 
tage of this opportunity to profess the sense of my own sincere esteem. 

(Signed) G. Cardinal Soglio, Secy, of State. 

Those who can remember the fire that would kindle in the old 
man’s eye at the recollection of bygone days must yield to the 
conclusion, that there is something heroic in the indomitable pur¬ 
pose of a bold, honest, self-sacrificing spirit. 

Duncan Macalister Donald, who succeeded his father as laird 
of Lyleston, studied for the ministry, and left the University with 
the degree of B.D. He was licensed by the Presbytery of Dum¬ 
barton. He was appointed assistant minister of Dumbarton, and 
secured the entire confidence and esteem of both the minister and 
the people for his manly, consistent Christian character and un¬ 
selfish devotion to duty. When he was elected minister of Moulin, 
Pitlochry, Perthshire, a few years ago, he received a handsome 
present of close upon one hundred pounds in value, as a memento 
of the love which the members and adherents of the Church of 
Dumbarton bore for him, and as a token of the interest they took 
in his future career, 


80 


CARDROSS. 


On 31st, January, 1888, the Rev. D. Macalistcr Donald. B.D., 
married Miss Frances Swathy, Toronto, Canada. 

In 1890 lie disposed of Lyleston to Captain Noble, C.B.R.A., 
the representative of the family from whom James Donald 
bought the estate in 1708. The whirligig of time brings round 
many changes. 

CAMPBELLS OF COLGRAIN. 

The lands of Colgrain came into the hands of the Campbell 
family in the year 1836. They were then purchased from the 
Dennistouns, their ancient possessors, by Colin Campbell, Esq., 
third son of John Campbell, Esq., of Morreston, Lanarkshire, who 
traced his descent from Colin Campbell of Glenurchy, ancestor of 
the noble house of Breadalbane. 

A portion of the mansion house of Colgrain bears date 1648 ; 
but since that period it has been remodelled and largely added to. 

The family tomb is situated on the left hand side of Cardross 
Church. On the wall of the enclosure there are tablets inscribed 
as follows :— 

“ In memory of Colin Campbell, Esq., of Colgrain, born 8th January, 
1782, died 22nd January, 1863 ; Janet Miller Hamilton, his wife, born 
14th September, 1795, died 23rd March, 1870 ; John, eldest son of the 
above, Captain Royal Scots Greys, born 9th August, 1S15, died 28th May, 
1846; Mary, their third daughter, born 6th May, 1821, died 17th April, 
1872; Colin Campbell of Colgrain, second son of the above, born 2nd 
September, 1819, died 20th February, 1886.” 

“Colin John Campbell, eldest son of Colin Campbell of Colgrain and 
Jessie Middleton, his wife ; born 28th May, 1848, died 6th August, 1880. 

‘ Nothing in my hand I bring, 

Simply to Thy cross I cling. ’ 

‘ Absent from the body, 

Present with the Lord.” 

William Middleton Campbell of Colgrain, eldest surviving son 
of the late Colin Campbell of Colgrain, was born in 1849, He 


CAllDltOSS. 


81 


was educated at Eton College. He is a J.P. for the County of 
Dumbarton, one of H.M.’s Lieutenants for the City of London, 
and a Director of the Bank of England. In 1873 he married 
Edith Agneta, second daughter of the late R. C. L. Bevan and 
the Lady Agneta Bevan, of Trent Park, Middlesex, and Fosbury 
Manor, Wilts, and has issue:—Colin Algernon, bom 1874 ; 
Ronald George, born 1878 ; Norman Robert, born 1880; Evan 
Roland, born 1887, and Agneta Elspeth. 

Address —Coombe Ridge, Surrey. Clubs—Union, London; 

Western, Glasgow. 

AIKENS OF DALMOAK. 

This family, although only heritors of recent date in the parish 
of Cardross, were landowners in the eastern district of Dumbar¬ 
tonshire and adjoining portions of Lanarkshire from the middle 
of the sixteenth century down to comparatively recent times. 
Although they do not inter in the kirkyard of the parish, yet I 
think it right to give their history in this connection. 

About sixty years ago, three members of the family embarked 
in business in the city of Glasgow, and, by steady perseverance, 
intelligence, and enterprise, all amassed considerable fortunes. 

Barton, the second of the three brothers, about forty years ago 
purchased the desirable estate of Kipperoch, formerly called 
Kipperminschock, now the property of his heir; and John, the 
eldest brother, acquired in the year 1857 the beautiful contiguous 
Dalmoak property, in the near proximity of Dumbarton, upon 
which he, on a most commanding position, about twenty years 
ago, built a goodly castle, fair to see. In the year 18G0, John 
Aiken bought the adjoining lands of Succoth. 

James Aiken, elder son of John Aiken, is now proprietor of 
Dalmoak, including Succoth ; and he, three years ago, purchased 
from Graham of Gartmore the contiguous farms of Whiteleys, 
West Mains of Ca-rdross, and Ardochbeg. Upon the combined 


82 


CARDROSS. 


estates extensive improvements have been effected since they 
came into the hands of the Aikens. Barton Aiken died in 1889, 
in his 79th year, leaving issue one daughter. John Aiken died 
in 1875, in his 75th year, leaving issue two sons—James and 
John—and one daughter. The sons are members of the firm of 
Burns, Aiken & Co., writers, Glasgow. 

BARRS OF BURNFOOT. 

Not far from the tomb of the Bainfield family there is to be 
seen the burial place of the Barrs of Burnfoot. On the tombstone 
there is the following inscription :— 

“Robert Barr, Burnfoot or Bainfield, Oardross, who died in the year 
1810, aged 31 ; Peter or Patrick Barr, son of the said Robert Barr, who 
died at Bainfield foresaid, 15th May, 1878, aged 07 ; John Barr, sometime 
also at Bainfield, and also son of said Robert Barr, who died at Helensburgh 
on 26th May, 1883, aged 79 ; Robert Barr, son of said Peter Barr, who 
died in Glasgow on 10th August, 1S77, aged 33.” 

The Barrs originally came from Lochwinnoch. The earliest 
trace I can find of them in Oardross is a certain John Barr, farmer, 
Kirkton, who married an Agnes Caldwell, about 1737. They 
afterwards removed to Dalmoak farm, and the late John Barr, 
farmer and innkeeper, Sealand-Bank (now King’s inn), was a son 
of theirs. All these people seem to have been douce, quiet-living 
folks, who apparently have held a tenacious hold of the soil on 
which they grew up. The son of the innkeeper of Sealand-Bank 
was the late Mr Barr of Bainfield’s father, Robert Barr, who died 
before his son was born. His (Robert Barr’s) mother, Isobel 
Niven—the innkeeper’s first wife—is referred to on the tomb¬ 
stone, but as regards her ancestry I know nothing definitely. 
This I do know, that persons bearing that name have been con¬ 
nected with Cardross from the period of the Reformation down¬ 
wards. 

The Ptobert Barr referred to above became ferryman at Cardross, 
and made with his own hands the “ sheuch ” down which the Kil* 


CAHDttOSS. 


oo 


rnahew Burn now runs, for long locally known as “ the dock.” 
He married Elizabeth Lennox, daughter of Robert Lennox, farmer, 
Kirk ton, who became grandmother of Patrick Barr, writer, 
Glasgow. The first house the young couple lived in was one 
recently taken down, which stood at the very edge of the mill¬ 
wheel. They next took up their abode in Bainfield House (now 
occupied by Mr Bain the mason, who, it may be stated, is no 
relative of the erstwhile proprietors of the Bainfield property. 
This house, which stands on the north side of the highway, was 
for a long time occupied by the Misses Bain, the liferentrixes of 
Bainfield). This Robert Barr at that time kept the ferry-house, 
and sold liquor in it. He died very suddenly of British Cholera, 
and his widow carried out his intention of building a house for 
the inn and ferry, under a lease of 66 years, got from the 
Bains. This house, which is situated at the south side of the 
highway, is now the property of John William Burns of Kilma- 
hew, the Barrs who now occupy it being merely tenants. Patrick 
Barr’s father (Patrick or Peter) was born in the old Bainfield 
house six months after his father’s death, he being the youngest 
of four—three brothers, John, Robert, Peter or Patrick, and a 
sister, Anne, who became Mrs Snodgrass of Mollandhu, lately 
deceased. The mother of these did not long remain a widow. 
Shortly after her husband’s death she married John Fraser, a 
young man who was in her own employment, to whom she bore 
Hugh Fraser, James Fraser, Elizabeth Fraser, Agnes Fraser, Mary 
Fraser, and another daughter who became first wife of Archibald 
Niven, of Silverton-hill, Dumbarton. 

Hugh Fraser became wealthy in Glasgow as partner of the 
great drapery firm of Arthur & Fraser, and Fraser & M‘Laren, 
now Fraser, Sons Company. James Fraser died at Cardross, 
after being a potato merchant in Glasgow. Elizabeth Fraser be¬ 
came Mrs Davie, and is the last survivor of Elizabeth Lennox’s 
family. 


84 


CAfcDllOSS. 


John Barr remained a ferryman, Peter or Patrick Barr became 
a lighterman and coal merchant, and Robert Barr became an 
innkeeper in Greenock, where his two sons still reside. 

The most notable thing about the Barr family is their connec¬ 
tion with boat racing on the Clyde. As rowers, they were never 
beaten on its waters. They were selected to compete with trained 
London oarsmen on the Mersey at Liverpool, and were there 
ignoininiously defeated. John Colquhoun, author of “ The Moor 
and the Loch,” attributes their want of success to want of athletic 
training, but the Barrs set down their discomfiture to the inferi¬ 
ority of the construction of the boat they rowed. There is 
probably some truth in both of these reasons. 

There were two eminent Cardross racing crews. The first or 
old crew, composed of John Barr, John Wilson, Charles Menzies, 
and Robert Barr; and the second or new crew, comprised of three 
Barrs and another person whose name I forget. Peter or Patrick 
Barr, John Barr, and Robert Barr, rowed at the Liverpool 
contest alluded to above, having as fourth man, as far as I recol¬ 
lect, James Fraser. 

The present Patrick Barr’s father and mother were cousins, his 
mother being Mary Lennox (who died June 24th, 1891, aged 78), 
daughter of James Lennox, Kirkton, whose sister was “Granny 
Fraser” of the ferry inn. 

The Lennox, or female ancestry of the Barrs is probably 
more interesting than that of the male line. Robert Lennox, 
Kirkton, was son of Alexander Lennox, Miller, Millig, Hel¬ 
ensburgh. Tradition connects his name with what James 
Lennox called a “ freed farm ” in Glenfruin, now part of the 
Luss estates. This free farm seems to have been gifted by one of 
the Earls of Lennox to a fair maid, higlit Macaulay, who wonned 
in the glen, with whom he became enamoured and had established 
as an auxiliary wife on the lands referred to. The descendants 
of the earl by this primitive kind of connection, held the property 


CARDROSS. 


85 


for a considerable period of time. The Barrs, by the mother’s 
side, therefore, were they of an aspiring disposition and set on 
letting the world know that they had “blue blood” in their veins 
—might quarter their arms with those of the illustrious house of 
Lennox, and decorate the same with a bar sinister, as is the wont 
of many noble historic families in the land, more especially those 
connected “ on the wrong side of the blanket ” with the Royal 
House, in whose veins their is Lennox blood, through the marriage 
of Lord Darnley with one of the three heiresses of the house of 
Lennox, and also through the marriage of his son, Lord Darnley, 
with Mary Queen of Scots. 

ALLAN SNODGRASS, FARMER, MOLLANDHU. 

This erstwhile buirdly, plodding, honest, steady, and prosperous 
man, whose mortal remains lie in the kirkyard of Cardross, was 
born at the farm steading of Knock, Renfrewshire, near the end of 
last century. The farm had been cultivated for a long period by 
his father and grandfather. He came of a long-lived stock, and 
to show how far back two long lives can take us, it may be stated 
that Mr Snodgrass’s father, in the year 1745, conveyed the 
luggage of '* Bonnie Prince Charlie ” on horseback, from Paisley to 
Greenock, so that if the son was not a member of a historic family, 
yet one of his forbears brings us into close connection with an 
historic character. 

On 2nd February, 1822, Allan Snodgrass entered on the 
tenancy of Mollandhu farm, the lands of which he carefully 
and intelligently cultivated for the long space of sixty-one years. 

After being settled in his farm for live years, he took unto him¬ 
self a wife, Annie Barr, to share his joys and sorrows, doubling 
the one and halving the other. This event took place in the 
winter of 1827, memorable for its heavy falls of snow. Honest 
Allan, when conversing with his family on the subject, once said : 
“There werenae carriages at my wedding, but, for a’ that, it wisna 


SG 


CARDROSS. 


devoid o’ state, for I took your mother home o’er a soft, beautiful, 
spotless white carpet (pure as her ain bonnie sel’), which was 
woven for the occasion in the lift, and laid down quietly by 
unseen hands.” The “ young folk ” were kirked in Geilston barn, 
that being the place where prayer was wont to be made during 
the time the new church of the parish was being erected. A 
long married life followed this happy event, and many sons and 
daughters, in due course of time, rose up around them to call them 
blessed. 

Mr Snodgrass had close business relations with Helensburgh 
and Dumbarton people. In the former place, he was on special 
terms of intimacy with Henry Bell of steamer “ Comet ” fame, 
his brother Thomas, Doctors Bryce and Lennox, and old Mr 
Breingan ; and in the latter place, his great friends were Alex¬ 
ander Macdonald, coal merchant, and Alexander Denny, Cooper, 
from whom he got his milk pails, barrels, washing boynes and 
luggies; and from the farmer the cooper’s thrifty guidwife oft got 
material to replenish her butter kit and meal barrel, giif-gaff thus 
making guid freens. 

In those days glass-making was the staple trade of Dumbarton, 
and many stories the subject of this memoir used to tell of the 
high jinks that took place in the county town to celebrate the 
completion of the Messrs Dixons’ annual supply of hay, to which 
he contributed largely. 

When Mr Snodgrass entered upon his farm it was in a very 
rough state, but by reason of his untiring energy and skill as an 
agriculturist he made it quite a model one. He was the first to 
introduce tiled drains into Cardross. He squared all his fields, 
and kept the same most admirably fenced. The products of his 
daily enjoyed more than a local fame. He was a workman who 
needed not to be ashamed of his labours. For many years Mr 
Snodgrass was an esteemed elder of the Kirk, and during his 61 
years’ residence in the parish was only on three or four occasions 


CARDROSS 87 

absent from the ordinary diets of worship, and then only because 
of sickness in his family. 

His last illness—creeping paralysis—was short. After a few 
days’ suffering he, at Mollandhu, breathed his last on 1st February, 
1883, aged 84. His mortal remains were interred in the God’s 
Acre of Cardross on the 5th of said month. The funeral was 
largely attended. There was a funeral service held in the church, 
conducted by the late Rev. William Dunn, minister of the parish, 
who also on the subsequent Sunday preached his funeral sermon. 
The good old farmer, after having garnered many harvests, fell 
before Death’s keen sickle like a shock of corn fully ripe. His 
memory is redolent of all that is pleasant. 

On the 16th of June, 1890, Annie Barr, Allan Snodgrass’s 
loving partner, rejoined her husband. Her end was peaceful. At 
her demise she had reached the goodly age of 84. She was a re¬ 
markably kind, pleasant woman, and a great favourite in the 
district. She is survived by six sons and four daughters. Her 
second eldest son, Robert, is now tenant of Mollandhu farm. 

Having finished my notice of Cardross Kirkyard and of some of 
those who sleep therein, it may not be out of place to now give a 
brief sketch of the Napiers of Kilmahew, and of 

TIIE CHAPEL AND BURYING GROUND OF KILMAHEW. 

Within the bounds of the lands of Kirkton of Kilmahew there 
stand the ruins of a small chapel erected in 1467. Probably on 
the same site there stood, prior to 1370, another chapel, erected 
in all likelihood for the convenience of the dwellers in the neigh¬ 
bourhood, who had a considerable distance to travel to Rosneath, 
the church of their parish, on the one hand, or on the other to 
Cardross Church, the church of the neighbouring parish, on Car¬ 
dross Point, now embraced in Levengrove Park, Dumbarton. The 
chapel of 1467, erected, endowed, and dedicated to St, Mabew by 


88 


CARDROSS. 


Duncan Napier, was in the May of that year consecrated by 
George, Bishop of Argyll, in mitre and full pontificals. 

The arches and mouldings inside of the chapel are in a fair state 
of preservation, and are worthy of attention as affording a good 
specimen of the early private ecclesiastical foundations of Scot¬ 
land. The chapel was used at the Reformation as a preaching 
station by a reader under the minister of Rosneath, but it fell into 
disuse in 1644, on the re-construction of the parish of Oardross, 
when its church was erected on its present central site. In 1640 
a portion of the chapel was turned into a school house, and a pro¬ 
vision secured for the schoolmaster’s maintenance out of the lands 
of Kilmahew ; and the heritors further secured to him the fees, 
session-clerk dues, and seventy merks yearly. Further, the school¬ 
master, present and to come, was to be entertained by Robert 
Napier of Kilmahew, “ within his ain house, in meat, drink, and 
bedding, so long as he shall discharge the duty of family exercise 
and prayer within the said family.” 

Surrounding the chapel of Kilmahew there is a burying place 
of equal antiquity, in which the dead of many generations have 
been laid to rest. There have been interments in it down to 
within the last few years, one of the more recent being a connec¬ 
tion of the Napiers by either blood or marriage. The Napier 
family used this as their burying place from remote time. At the 
close of the thirteenth century, Malcolm, Earl of Lennox, granted 
a charter of the lands of Kilmahew to John Napier. In 1304 he 
assisted at the defence of Stirling Castle against the attack of the 
English forces. Eighteen Napiers in all enjoyed the possession of 
the estate, the last of the number being William Napier, a citizen 
of America, who in 1820 conveyed it to his brother-in-law, 
Alexander Sharp, husband of his sister, by whom an abortive 
attempt was made to enlarge and restore Kilmahew Castle, the 
old-time residence of the family. In 1856 Kilmahew was sold to 
John Barr, railway contractor, and by him three years after was 


CARPROBS, 


89 


conveyed to James Burns of Bloomhill. Now the ruined tower 
which alone remains of the old house of the Napiers, as it rears 
up its time-battered head, is no inappropriate symbol of the fate 
which befel the family. John William Burns now owns their fair 
possessions. Sic transit gloria muncli. 

Having in the immediately foregoing pages dwelt on matters 
relating chiefly to departed clergy, heritors, and notable people of 
the parish, and some of their descendants and successors, I will 
now proceed to give short notices of living notables not embraced 
in the above category. 

ROBERT BOOG WATSON, F. C. MINISTER OF CARDROSS, 

was born at Burntisland, Fifeshire, where his father (a descen¬ 
dant of Peter Watson, the librarian of the Cathedral of St. An¬ 
drews at the period immediately antecedent to the Reformation), 
was parish minister. He was educated in Devonshire, Edinburgh, 
and France, and received the degree of B.A. from the Edinburgh 
University. In 1845 he joined Agassiz and De Sor in their ex¬ 
pedition to the Aar glacier—the first occasion on which the winter 
rate of glacier movement was observed. 

At the beginning of the Crimean war in 1854, Mr Watson was 
ordained chaplain to the Highland Brigade, and during the two 
ensuing years had more than sufficient opportunity for studying 
the frightful horrors of war. On his return in 185G, he was for 
some months chaplain to the forces at Dover and Shorncliffi 

In 1857 he married, and was that same year appointed chap¬ 
lain to Her Majesty’s troops in India. He had thus occasion to 
see a considerable amount of frontier service during the troublous 
times of the mutiny. He remained in India till 1859, when he 
was invalided home on account of dysentery. 

He now returned to his scientific pursuits, and was, in 18G2, 
elected member of the Royal Society of Edinburgh; in 186.3, 
honorary member of the Luneburg Wissenchafts Verein , and in 

u 


90 


CARDROSS. 


1864, member of the Geological Society of London. In this 
latter year he was appointed Scotch chaplain of the Free Church 
in Madeira, where he remained for ten years. Thereafter, he 
was for some time in Edinburgh. In 1878 he was elected mem¬ 
ber of the Linnean Society of London. On the 23rd December, 
1879, he was inducted to the Free Church of Cardross. For five 
years, from the year 1886 onwards, he occupied the post of 
clerk to the Presbytery, but having in the meantime been elected 
convener of the Colonial committee of the Free Church, stress of 
work has obliged him to resign the clerkship. Mr Watson is the 
author of a large volume on the mollusca of the Challenger 
Expedition, undertaken at the request of Sir Wyville Thomson. 
In 1889 he was elected vice-president, and in 1890, unanimously 
chosen president of the Conchological Society of Great Britain 
and Ireland. 

ROBERT BUCHANAN, PAROCHIAL SCHOOLMASTER. 

Well on for seventy years ago, the subject of this notice was 
born in the portion of Dumbarton which lies in Cardross Parish 
quoad omnia. He was educated in Dumbarton Academy when 
the long-deceased, much-beloved Gilbert Turner was rector there¬ 
of. In that seat of learning he gained silver medals and other 
prizes. Pie ultimately was promoted to a monitorship within its 
walls, and your servant, who writeth this memoir, was one of 
those who was placed under his charge for a time. Even at that 
early period he was the same steady, painstaking, thoroughly 
conscientious, intelligent teacher of youth that he continued to be, 
but in an ever-increasing degree, down to the period of his with¬ 
drawal from work, after having spent close on half-a-century in 
the teaching profession. 

Mr Buchanan attended several classes in the University of 
Glasgow. He was successively parish schoolmaster of Doura, 
Patna, and Abercorn, and finally Cardross, where he laboured 


CARDROSS. 91 

about forty-seven years, and earned for himself golden opinions 
from all ranks and classes of the community. 

The parish schoolmaster co-operated vigourously with the late 
Major Geils of Geilston in starting the Cardross Rifle Corps, and 
Mr Buchanan has for many years held the offices of Registrar 
and Session Clerk of Cardross. 

He married a daughter of the late Dr Craig of Kilwinning, 
and has now been a widower for some years. Three of a family 
were born to him; one of whom Robert, is an M. A., and minister of 
St. James’ Parish Church, Clydebank. The youngest, James, is 
resident in St. Peter’s College, Cambridge, where he went after a 
most brilliant career in Glasgow University, and out of which he 
took third place in the Higher Mathematical Tripos, and third place 
in the Smith Prize competition at Cambridge University, where 
he is now resident as a tutor. The third member of Mr Buchanan’s 
family is an only daughter, who lives in family with her father at 
Cardross. 

I love to see my erstwhile monitor’s venerable form in the old 
burgh town in which he spent his early days. The sight thereof 
conjures up memories dear o’ auld lang syne within my bosom, 
not untouched by sadness, because of the great majority of those 
who were then my schoolmates having been consigned to the 
dust of death, leaving me one of a handful of survivors. 

DAVID MACBRAYNE, CARDROSS PARK. 

This widely-known and highly-respected man needs not the aid 
of illustrious descent to make him famous. But for all that it is 
an important factor in a man’s life to be of such origin, and Mr 
MacBrayne has an honourable lineage—one of which any man 
might be proud. He is a grandson of the distinguished Dr 
Burns of the Barony Parish, Glasgow, and therefore a cousin of 
Sir John Burns, Bart., and Mr James Cleland Burns of the Cunard 
Line, and also of Mr John William Burns, laird of Kilmahew. 


02 


CAE DROSS, 


So far back as 1851, Mr David MacBrayne, in conduction with 
Messrs David and Alexander Hutcheson, took up the carrying 
trade to the West Highlands, which had been for a period con¬ 
ducted by the Messrs Burns, in whose office the above named 
gentlemen were engaged. At the period of its transference the 
business was an unimportant one, but it gradually developed under 
the energetic management of the new firm, until it assumed 
colossal dimensions. 

In 1876, one of Mr MacBrayne’s partners retired, and the 
other went out of the co partnery in 1878, leaving him sole 
partner. Being the entire master of the situation, he struck 
out boldly in the way of bidding for increased popular favour by 
building, immediately thereafter, the “ Columba ” (that floating 
palace of delight), then three years later the stately “ Claymore ; ” 
next in order the “ Cavalier,” in 1855 ; the beautiful “Grenadier,” 
in 1888; then the “Fusilier;” and thereafter several other 
steamers of various tonnage. 

To give my readers an adequate idea of the magnitude of Mr 
MacBrayne’s operations, it may be stated that he, in this year of 
grace, 1891, owns 35 steamships, manned by 855 men, and having 
in connection 696 agents, clerks, storemen, coalmen, and carters— 
verily, a considerable naval force, almost every member of which 
is personally known to his employer. 

By the aid of Mr MacBrayne’s noble fleet of steamers, access 
can be had pleasantly from the Clyde to the most romantic 
scenery of the West Highlands, embracing Ardrishaig, Oban, 
Mull, Skye, Stornoway, Thurso, Staffa, Iona, Glencoe, the Cale¬ 
donian Canal, and many other points of interest. 

Mr MacBrayne has confidence in himself, and inspires others 
with a like feeling. He has gathered around him, in the course 
of years, to carry out his behests, as fine a body of men as the 
world can show, all of whom look up to him with pride as their 
plucky, energetic chief. 


CARDROSS. 


93 


DAVID MURRAY, M.A., LL.D., MOORE PARK. 

David Murray, writer, Glasgow, was born at Glasgow, 15th 
April, 1842 ; is the elder son of David Murray, writer, Glasgow, 
of the well known firms of Murray & Galloway, and Murray & 
Smith—a skilful conveyancer and an active political agent of the 
Liberal party in Glasgow—who died in 1848. The present David 
Murray was educated at the parish school of Kirkoswald, Ayr¬ 
shire (where Robert Burns learned geometry and land surveying), 
at Ayr Academy, and at Merchiston Castle School. He then 
entered the University of Glasgow, where he graduated M.A. in 
1863. Turning to law, he entered the office of his father’s old 
firm—then represented by Smith & Wright—served his appren¬ 
ticeship and clerkship, and became a partner in 1867, the firm 
being then Smith, Wright, tfc Johnston. In 1869 he and the 
senior partner of that firm formed the new firm of George Smith ifc 
Murray, and on Mr Smith’s death in 1871, the firm of Maclay, 
Murray A Spens. 

Mr Murray has written the following works :—“International 
General Average,” 8vo., Edinburgh, 1877; “Old Cardross,” 12mo., 
Glasgow, 1880 ; “A Glimpse of French School life in the Sixteenth 
Century,” 8vo., Edinburgh, 1881 ; “ The York Buildings’Com¬ 
pany : a chapter in Scotch History,” 8vo., Glasgow, 1883 ; “The 
Black Book of Paislev: with a note on John de Burgundia, 
otherwise Sir John Mandeville,and the Plague,” 4to., Paisley, 1885. 
“A Note on some Glasgow and other Provincial Coins and 
Tokens,” 4to., Glasgow, 1885 ; “Disestablishment Aims,” 8vo., 
Glasgow, 1885 ; “ Bull of Pope Adrian YI. granting a Pension 
from Provand,” 8vo., Glasgow, 1887 ; “ Some Considerations in 
Reference to the Limited Owners (Scotland) Bill, 1888,” 8vo., 
Glasgow, 1888; “The Law relating to the Property of Married 
Persons,” 8vo., Glasgow, 1891. 

The above named works show that their author is a man of 


94 


CARDROSS. 


culture and of large and varied knowledge, conjoined with great 
industry and deep research. 

In 1889, his alma mater conferred upon him the honorary degree 
of LL.D. 

In 1872, he married Frances, eldest daughter of Arthur 
Frances Stoddard of Broadfield, Port-Glasgow, and has since then 
resided in Cardross, where he and his most estimable vfife have 
made themselves great favourites by their urbanity and the kindly 
interest they take in all matters affecting the welfare of the 
people. Mrs Murray is also of literary tastes. She is the authoress 
of a dainty little privately circulated volume entitled, “ Summer 
in the Hebrides : Sketches on Colonsay and Oronsay,” 1877. 

MAJOR JOHN M‘lNTYRE, WOODNEUK. 

This well-known man is connected with Cardross by descent, 
birth, and business. He v r as son of Archd. M‘Intyre, joiner, 
wood-merchant, and saw-miller, who died in January, 1847. The 
future major v T as born in 1831, in the house he still lives in. At 
his father’s death the business he had founded was carried on for 
his family’s behoof by an uncle for a few years. It was then 
conducted on his own account by the subject of this memoir, who 
recently assumed his eldest son Robert as partner, they being 
also tenants of the Murrays’ farm, Cardross. 

John MTntyre w^as married in 1864, and has a family of seven. 
He has, for the last 25 years, been a member of the Kirk Session 
of Cardross. In 1859 he joined the Cardross Company of D. R. 
Volunteers; was for five years sergeant in it; got his commis¬ 
sion as Ensign in 1865, as Lieutenant in 1870, as Captain in 
1880, retiring with the rank of Major in 1887, after 28 years’ 
service. At his retiral, his eldest son got a commission in the 
same company, W’hich he still holds. 

The Major, during all the time he was connected with the 
corps, took the deepest interest in shooting practice—in fact, lie 


CARDROSS. 


95 


was and still is passionately fond of it. He went to Wimbledon 
for twenty-four years to shoot, and gained a goodly share of the 
prizes for which he competed. He was a member of the “Scottish 
Eight ” four times, and a unit of the “Scottish Twenty ” seven 
times, and twice had the honour of making the highest score in 
the “ twenty.” The Major was the first in the United Kingdom 
who made 13 bulls’-eyes in succession at 900 yards. This was 
achieved on Lanark Muir in the competition for the selection of 
the “Scottish Eight.” He won the first prize in the “Windmill” 
competition twice at Wimbledon ; and, besides these, won other 
eighty prizes. At the Inverness meetings this crack shot won the 
President’s prize twice. This prize is considered “ the blue 
ribbon ” of these meetings. He holds three silver cups, won at 
different shooting competitions—one of these, the Ingram Vase, 
costing £50, for long range shooting, had to be won by the Major 
three times before it became his property. Finally, Major John 
M‘Intyre held the £100 Glasgow Corporation Vase for two years. 
The Major’s record is a splendid one. 

MAJOR WALTER BUCHANAN, CLERKIIILL. 

This influential Cardross man was born in the West Bridgend 
portion of the parish in 1834. He received his initiatory educa¬ 
tion at the parish school, and finished the same at the University 
of Glasgow, where he took honours in the Conveyancing Class 
under Professor Skene. 

Mr Buchanan served his law apprenticeship with the late Mr 
John Paterson, writer, Dumbarton, familiarly known as ‘‘the 
honest lawyer.” Walter Buchanan, after the expiry of his 
apprenticeship, entered the office of Messrs C. R. Baird & Muir- 
head, one of the leading law firms in Glasgow, for which Mr 
Paterson was local correspondent. Mr Buchanan after a time 
transferred his services to Mr John Steuart, writer and banker, 
Pollockshaws and Glasgow, to whom he acted as managing clerk. 


96 


CARDROSS. 


His next move was to the office of Messrs Murdoch & Rodgers, 
writers, Glasgow, where he held the important post of managing 
conveyancing clerk. In 1866 Walter Buchanan was assumed as 
partner by William Paterson, writer, Dumbarton (only son of the 
deceased John Paterson), the firm being then changed to Paterson 
it Buchanan, as it still remains, although Mr Paterson has deceased. 

When William Paterson died in 1875, Walter Buchanan was 
appointed joint agent of the local branch of the Clydesdale Bank, 
in room of his partner, having as colleague Mr C. M. Stevenson, 
who had been accountant in the office. 

Mr Buchanan joined the Volunteer force at its origin, and 
served seven years in the ranks of the Cardross company of rifles, 
ultimately succeeding Major M‘Intyre in the command of the 
Company. He retired in 1888 with the rank of Major, after 
completing fifteen years’ commissioned service. 

In addition to military duty, Mr Buchanan has also rendered 
civil service to the community, he having been for a short term a 
Town Councillor of Dumbarton. Further, he is one of the original 
life trustees of Dalreoch Quoad Sacra Church, of which he is an 
elder, session clerk, and treasurer. He was twice returned by the 
Presbytery of Dumbarton as one of their lay representatives to 
the General Assembly. 

The subject of this memoir has during his life-time taken a warm 
interest in all matters appertaining to the welfare of Cardross. 

Mr Buchanan, in 1866, married Jessie, only daughter of Mr 
Robert Stevenson, ex-Councillor of Helensburgh, an enterprising 
tradesman of that burgh, who, on account of the many houses he 
erected within its borders, might be termed one of the men who 
built the town. Of this union there is surviving issue five sons 
and two daughters, the oldest son being associated with his father 
in the law business. 

Walter Buchanan is a member of the Buchanan Society of 
Glasgow, and of the Dumbarton Salmon Club. 


CARDEOSS 


97 


COUNTY-COUNCILLOR DONALD MACINTYRE, TIGII-CRUACIIAN, 

who is a leading residenter in Cardross, was born over half-a- 
century ago in Argyllshire. In early manhood he went to Glas¬ 
gow, where for a good many years he has been largely and 
successfully engaged in the importation of butcher meat from 
America. 

Some fourteen years ago Mr MacIntyre took up his residence 
in Cardross, where a few T years later he.built his present handsome 
place of abode, yclept Tigh-Cruachan. While eminently attentive 
to business, the subject of this memoir has yet found time to de¬ 
vote to public (more especially parochial) matters, and two years 
ago he was honoured bv being made chairman of the Parochial 
Board of Cardross. He is vice-chairman of Dumbarton Combina¬ 
tion Poor-house Committee. He also sits at the County Council 
Board as the representative of Cardross. To the duties pertain¬ 
ing to these important positions Mr MacIntyre gives commendable 
heed, and it is said of him that he has not missed attending a 
single meeting, were it either a general or a committee one. The 
chairman of the Parochial Board is a man with a warm heart, and 
a hand that moves responsive to it. It consists with my own 
knowledge that during last winter and the former one he visited 
almost all the poor folks of Benton, and rejoiced their hearts 
greatly by his kind words and great liberality. 

County Councillor MacIntyre is a well read man, especially in 
History and Poetry; and in private life he is most genial and 
hospitable. In politics he is a moderate Liberal. He is a family 
man, and has several sons and daughters. Take him for all in all, 
he is every inch a man. Few men carry the cup of prosperity as 
modestly as he does. “ He does good by stealth, and blushes to 
find it fame.” May his shadow never grow less, for under it the 
sons and daughters of affliction find ample shelter from the evils 
which threaten to devour. 


98 


CARDROSS. 


CAPTAIN WILLIAM BEATTIE THOMSON, ARDENVOHR. 

Mr Thomson is a native of the Yale of Leven, and has for 
several years resided at Cardross, having married the elder 
daughter of Mr M‘Intyre of Tigh-Cruachan. W. B. Thomson 
finished his education at the University of Glasgow, where he 
took honours in the Law Classes. After serving as law clerk 
in various offices, including that of Messrs Mitchells, Cowan & 
Johnstone, Glasgow, he, in 1876, began business as a lawyer in 
Dumbarton, the firm of which he is now a member being that of 
MacFarlan & Thomson, solicitors, who are also agents for the 
British Linen Coy. Bank. 

Mr Thomson has been a commissioned officer in the 1st Dum¬ 
bartonshire Rifle Volunteers for ten or twelve years, and has now 
the command of the “ B ” or Cardross Company. Since Captain 
Thomson took up his residence in Cardross, he has taken a great 
interest in its welfare. He is an elder in the church of the 
parish, and is at present the representative of its session at meet¬ 
ings of Presbytery. For several years he has also had the honour 
of being a lay representative of Dumbarton Presbytery in the 
General Assembly. He was also for several years president of 
the Young Men’s Guild of the parish of Cardross. 

W. B. Thomson is a member of the Parochial Board of Cardross, 
and convener of several of its committees, and is presently the 
representative to the heritors of Cardross from Moore’s Mortifi¬ 
cation Trust, which is managed by the Parochial Board. In 
politics, he is a Conservative, and is the registration and political 
agent for the Constitutional Association in the district. 

Mr Thomson has not confined himself to legal studies and 
writings. He has written at considerable length, and written 
well, on various other themes, including descriptions of the 
United States and Canada, in which he travelled. His articles 
on these subjects were published in the Dumbarton and Lennox 


CARDROSS. 


99 


Heralds , and also delivered before the members of various 
Mechanics’ and other Institutions, and were much admired. My 
friend is a keen Free Mason, and held the important post of 
R.W.M. of No. 18, Kilwinning lodge, which is the oldest in the 
Province of Dumbartonshire. Mr Thomson is also a member of 
several social clubs, including the Dumbarton Salmon and Burns 
Clubs, of both of which he has been chairman. 

ROBERT CRAIG, SHERIFF CLERK OF DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

This man whom I rank as one of the notable men of Cardross, 
became a residenter in the parish in this wise :—When the estate 
of Ardocli was offered for sale a few years ago, Mr Craig purchased 
a portion of it extending to several acres, on which is situated the 
old house of Clydebank, occupied by his mother. On the higher 
part of the grounds thus acquired, he erected a villa called Hazel¬ 
wood, in the Scotch baronial style of architecture, which is 
greatly admired for its captivating appearance and beautiful, 
commanding situation. 

The new laird has cleared away the old farm steading that 
stood on and disfigured a piece of his lands, but allowed some of 
the fruit trees, which formed the at one time famous orchard of 
Clydebank, to remain ; and these, though venerable with age, 
bear most excellent fruit. 

Mr Craig served his apprenticeship to the law in the office of 
the late Phineas Daniel, W.S., Sheriff-Clerk of the county, and 
afterwards for some years carried on business on his own account 
as a writer in Dumbarton. 

In 1871 lie was appointed to the important post of Sheriff- 
Clerk of Dumbartonshire; and in September, 1885, he married Miss 
Marion Boyd Cuninghame Steele (daughter of the late Sheriff 
Steele, Dumbarton), having issue one son. 

The Sheriff-Clerk is a Justice of Peace for the county, and 
Clerk to the Lieutenancy of the same. He has also, for the last 


100 


CAR DROSS. 


quarter of a century, had charge of matters appertaining to the 
feus of the Luss estates. 

He is of a retiring nature, but those who are familiar with him 
know right well the fund of humour and geniality that is bound 
up in his nature, and appreciate him highly as the possessor of 
these and many other lovable properties. 

WILLIAM ALLISON MACLACIILAN, M.D. 

The doctor was born in the parish of Cardross in 1849, was bred 
in it, is now its medical officer, and holds the same position to¬ 
wards the Moore Mortification Trust of the district. He and his 
forbears have dwelt in the Vale of Leven portion of the parish for 
over a century. Mr MacLaclilan graduated at the University of 
Glasgow in the spring of 1874, having passed through his classes 
with considerable distinction. Immediately after he became a 
qualified medical practitioner, lie practised in the village of Tarbol- 
ton, Ayrshire, for a few months, and then, towards the end of the 
same year, lie settled in the portion of Dumbarton which lies in Car- 
dross parish—namely, the West Bridgend—where he still resides. 
Besides the appointments mentioned above, the doctor is a medical 
officer of the Dumbarton Cottage Hospital, Examiner of Army 
Recruits, and acting-surgeon of the local Volunteer Artillery Corps. 
Despite these various important appointments, and the discharge 
of the duties which appertain to a large private practice scattered 
over a wide area, my energetic friend manages to find time to 
devote to the public interest, and to the interest of his brother 
practitioners, as a member of the Town Council of Dumbarton, 
and as President of the Dumbartonshire Medical Association. 

As a relief to his severer studies, the doctor has for a consider¬ 
able time struck the lyre, and the lyrics which flowed forth re¬ 
sponsive to his touch have been much appreciated for their musical 
cadence and fine fancy. Examples of these I recently gave to the 
public in my work entitled “ Poets and Poetry of the Lennox,” 
which do credit to both his head and heart. The doctor has 


CARDROSS. 


101 


from time to time contributed to the medical literature of the age. 
Valuable articles from his versatile pen have been published in 
the “ Lancet,” “ British Medical Journal,” and “ Glasgow and 
West of Scotland Medical Journal.” He also read a most sug- 
gestive paper on “ Addison’s Disease ” before the Medical Section 
of the British Medical Association at its meeting in Glasgow in 
1889. 

Dr MacLachlan, in 1880, married Janet Wallace Paul, youngest 
daughter of ex-Provost Paul, Dumbarton, and has issue a son and 
a daughter. 

The doctor is a member of the following learned bodies :— 
British Medical Association, Glasgow and West of Scotland 
Medical Association, Glasgow Medico Chirurgical Society, and the 
Glasgow University Court. 




[siiiJTiiJTiiiTii^^ LiriJjrrllJnlTO T limljriiirriirrilrTUniirTUmJ^^ 





Chapter £££. 


ALEXANDRIA. 



[HE village of Alexandria, named after the late laird of 


Bonhill, was, say about half a-century ago, an ill-planned, 
straggling, rather mean-looking place, where every bit lairdie 
planted down his bit biggin pretty much as his fancy dictated 
—with the worst results. 

A great deal has happened since then. There are not many 
places in this quarter which have made such great strides within 
the last few years as Alexandria has done, not only in population, 
but in most things which make life worth living. Its water 
supply, which was at one time scanty and of a very questionable 
quality, is now unimpeachable, being obtained in bounteous 
measure from “ The Queen of Scottish Lakes.” Its streets, roads, 
and drainage are improved. Many new streets have been formed, 
and flanked by houses of a very attractive nature, while the 
lower slope of the hill behind the village is beautified exceedingly 


































ALEXANDRIA. 


103 


by villas and grounds of quite a superior class. The older streets 
have become quite transformed by rows of superior houses being 
erected therein, many of which have in their basements shops of 
such a spacious, high-class description as would do credit to a 
citv. It hath in its centre a handsome fountain, dedicated to 
Alexander Smollett, the late laird of Bonhill. 

The place presents quite a town aspect. It is equipped with 
churches of almost every denomination to meet the varied wants 
of the people, so that each member of the community may get Ids 
weekly quantum of Gospel through the channel which his soul 
loveth best. Nor doth it lack a Public Hall of fair form and good 
accommodation. Its Public School, which is Gothic in style, is 
a very capacious and attractive one. To crown all these good 
things, two Institutes were recently gifted to the community by 
its princely benefactor, William Ewing Gilmour, Esq., of Croften- 
gea. With all these advantages, and its beauteous surroundings, 
the “ Grocery ” takes rank with the best-equipped places of its 
size in the land. 

One of the most important of recent works executed in the 
place was the formation of the 

BONIIILL PARISH CEMETERY. 

On acount of the crowded state of the graveyards of Bonhill 
parish, there was formed, in 1880, a garden cemetery for the 
parish on the lower slope of the pleasant range of hills which 
hem in the village of Alexandria on the west. This city of the 
dead is tastefully laid off, and has, during the decade which has 
elapsed since its origin, become a somewhat populous place. 
Many of the stones of memorial erected within its borders by 
pious hands are fine specimens of the sculptor’s art, and all over 
the place neatness and good taste are abundantly apparent, form¬ 
ing a pleasing contrast to the old-time burying places, where 
decency too frequently was outraged, and order was at a discount, 


104 


ALEXANDRIA. 


The cemetery ground was purchased from P. B. Smollett, Esq., of 
Bonhill. The operations in regard to laying it out were begun 
in August, 1880 ; and the total cost, including superintendent’s 
house at entrance lodge, was over .£3,000, which sum was obtained 
on loan from the Savings’ Bank, Bradford. 

Messrs Boyle & Tonnor, contractors, Johnstone, laid out the 
grounds; Mr Wm. Barlas, Alexandria, was the builder of the 
Lodge; and the Saracen Foundry, Glasgow, provided the entrance 
gate and railings. The whole work was done in accordance 
with plan, &e., prepared by Mr James Wilson, C.E., Greenock. 

The first interment took place on 10th August, 1881. The 
total interments to this date (23rd April, 1890) are 701 ; the 
receipts from the sale of ground, etc., to same date, £1,282 11s 6d. 
The cemetery is managed by a committee, of which E. J. Jones, 
Esq., of Dalmonach, is chairman. Mr Adam Bone is the present 
superintendent. The ground is admirably adapted for the pur¬ 
poses for which it was acquired. 

While, as I have shown, additional accommodation for the 
proper burial of the dead had to be bought for the parish of 
Bonhill in 1880, yet so long ago as 1840 a God’s Acre had to be 
secured, and a Chapel of Ease had to be erected in Alexandria, to 
relieve the pressure for space to which the kirk and kirkyard of 
Bonhill had been for long subjected, so that the dead might be 
decently interred, and worshippers might perform their public 
devotions in comfort. 

ALEXANDRIA CIIURCII AND CHURCHYARD 

are situated in the Main Street of the village. The place of 
worship is of pleasing design, and substantially built of white 
sandstone. It has a well-proportioned steeple, in which there is 
an illuminated dial. The building is somewhat Gothic in style, 
and is seated for 900 persons. In I860 it was created a Parish 
Church quoad sacra. The Bev, Mr Kidd, who still survives, was 


ALEXANDRIA. 


105 


appointed to the charge in 1844. The Rev. James Cromarty 
Smith, M.A., B.D., was ordained as colleague and successor to the 
aged pastor in 1888. The place of worship about six years 
ago underwent considerable alterations. An organ was in¬ 
troduced, the old pews were re-modelled in accordance with 
modern notions, and the interior of the sacred edifice was decor¬ 
ated in a high-class, artistic style, at a cost of several hundreds 
of pounds. Two stained glass windows, which were erected by 
the late Alexander Smollett of Bonhill, in memory of his mother, 
are a great adornment to the house of prayer. 

The kirkyard is a goodly sized, well kept one, partaking in some 
measure of the characteristics of a modern cemetery. In it there 
are several stones of memorial of quite superior excellence, pointing 
out the spots where the more illustrious of the village dead repose. 
The beautiful Gothic mausoleum wherein lie the remains of the 
more recently departed Smolletts of Bonhill, is situated at the east 
end of the place of graves, and a description of it, and a notice of 
those who sleep their long sleep within its walls, I proceed forth¬ 
with to give. 

The Smolletts, down to 1809, were buried in the churchyard 
of Dumbarton. At that date, Augusta, youngest daughter of 
Admiral Smollett, was interred within its precincts, the present 
laird of Bonhill, P. B. Smollett, having been present at the obse¬ 
quies. In 1810, one of their places of burial was embraced in the 
new and greatly enlarged church of the parish, as was evidenced 
a few years ago by the finding of a tombstone during alterations, 
in the south side of the church, which had been laid over the 
grave of James Smollett, of date 1698. The said James at death 
was eight or ten years of age, and was grandson to Sir James 
Smollett of Bonhill, and had he lived would have heired the 
estate. Another of their places of sepulture lay on the north 
side of the present church, near its west end, and it was entirely 
swept away when the street at Church Place was widened in 

H 


106 


ALEXANDRIA. 


1880. Since 1842, Alexandria burying ground has been used by 
the Smolletts as their place of burial instead of the Dumbarton 
graveyard. 

The late Alexander Smollett of Bonhill caused to be erected at 
his cost, behind the pulpit of Alexandria Parish Church, two 
charming stained glass in memoriam windows, the design being 
composed of leaves and flowers in exquisite combination. At the 
bottom of the one window there is the following legend : “ I am 
the Light of the world. 0 ! worship the Lord in the beauty of 
holiness.” “In Memory of Elizabeth Boyle, born 1767 ; died 
1858. Belict of Admiral Smollett of Bonhill.” At the bottom 
of the other window there is inscribed : “ The memory of the just 
is blessed. The Lord is my Light and my Salvation.” 

In the centre of the eastern extremity of the Alexandria 
Churchyard there stands the 

SMOLLETT MAUSOLEUM, 

which contains all that is mortal of a few of the more recent 
members of the family. The building is a fine specimen of flori¬ 
ated Gothic. The centre of the edifice rises with a cross-surmounted 
pediment to a height of about 25 feet. Under the finial there is 
engraven the family shield, with its arms : “ Az. a bend or, be¬ 
tween a lion rampant, ppr., holding in his paw a banner, arg., and 
a bugle horn, also ppr. Crest—An oak tree, ppr. Motto—Viresco.” 

The shield is enclosed within a partly open circle, the innermost 
member of which is of cable pattern. The building has two wings 
extending right and left from the central pediment, the length of 
the whole edifice being about 20 feet, and its depth about 10 feet. 
On each side, the door is elaborately enriched with dogs’ tooth 
and other ornamentation. There is in the front of the building: 
an unglazed window of appropriate design, as there also is in each 
of the two end pediments which face north and south. Altogether 
this is a fit resting place for the historic family of Smollett. On 


ALEXANDRIA. 


107 

the east wall of the mausoleum there are placed three white 
marble tablets, each containing one of the following inscriptions : 
“ John Rouet Smollett, Rear-Admiral of the Red, born 9th May, 
1767 ; died 16th May, 1842, in the 75th year of his age, “Eliza¬ 
beth, daughter of the Hon. Patrick Boyle, wife of Admiral J. R. 
Smollett, born 23rd October, 1767 ; died 6th August, 1858, in 
her 91st year.” Alexander Smollett of Bonhill, born 29th Nov., 
1801 ; died on 25th February, 1881, aged 79 years.” Further 
information regarding the Smollett family will be found in the 
next chapter. 

I now go on to give sketches of the more illustrious dead who 
are interred in the graveyard. 

THE REV. WILLIAM KIDD. 

This divine—who is mentioned in a foregoing part of this book 
as still surviving, but who has deceased during the progress 
of this work through the press—was born at Anniston, Mid- 
Lothian, in December, 1806. In his early boyhood he attended 
school at East Linton. Afterwards, when the family removed to 
Edinburgh, he attended the High School of that city when Dr 
Carson was rector—for whose memory he retained the highest 
esteem. During his college course he attended the University of 
Edinburgh when Wilson (Christopher North) was Professor of 
Moral Philosophy, and Chalmers Professor of Theology. 

Mr Kidd was licensed by the Presbytery of Dalkeith in 1834, 
and soon thereafter he got an appointment as assistant in the 
united parishes of Cross and Burness in Orkney, where he 
laboured for a year, after which he was assistant in the parishes 
of Flisk, in Fifeshire : Maybole, in Ayrshire ; and Hownam, in 
Roxburghshire. 

In November, 1843 (the Disruption year), he received a call 
from the congregation of Alexandria, which he accepted, and he 
was ordained to the charge in January, 1844. Here he laboured 


108 


ALEXANDRIA. 


faithfully until June, 1888, when, to relieve him of his duties, the 
Rev. J. Cromarty Smith was appointed as his assistant and suc¬ 
cessor. Mr Kidd, after a brief illness, died on September 20th, 
1891, aged 85 years. 

The Rev. Mr Kidd was “ everybody’s body.” He was beloved 
alike by “gentle and semple.” It is not putting it too strong to 
state that for close on half a century he was one of the widest 
known and one of the most notable of the leading men of the A r ale 
of Leven. 

DONALD MACLEAN, TACKSMAN OF BONHILL BRIDGE; 

At the western extremity of the north wall of the burying 
ground of the Alexandria Church there stands a line specimen of 
the stone sculptor’s art, by Barlas of Alexandria. It is fully six 
feet high, has richly carved Gothic pediments and side wings. At 
the top of the stone the letter M is carved within a shield, under¬ 
neath which there is the following inscription :—“ Erected by 
Thomas M‘Lean, in affectionate remembrance of his father, 
Donald M‘Lean, who died at Bridge House, Alexandria, 11th 
August, 1882, aged 71 years. 

Mi- M‘Lean, who for a long series of years was one*of the best 
known and best liked men in the Vale of Eeven, deserves more 

at my hands than the mere giving of the inscription on his tomb¬ 
stone. 

Donald M‘Lean, who came of a good old Highland stock, was 
Iv 111 i \ re, near Campbeltown, in 1811, where his father was 
a farmer. He was educated at the parish school, and at eighteen 
years o: age left the place of his birth to make his way in the 
world. From the year 1829, till his decease in 1882, he was 
closely associated with the A ale of Leven, as a merchant and as 

Id i M s e. He was one of the original promoters 
of the Alexandria Gravitation Water Supply. For a number of 
years he was managing director of the Lochlomond Steamboat Coy., 


ALEXANDRIA. 


100 


ancl latterly acted as one of the ordinary directors of the same. 
He was also a director of the Yale of Leven Public Hall Company, 
president of the Yale of Leven Curling Club, and a trustee of the 
Yale of Leven Savings Bank, along with his life-long friend the 
late Mr Lewis Guthrie, banker. In church matters he was always 
a strong upholder of Alexandria Free Church, and a liberal con¬ 
tributor to its funds. 

His only son, Thomas M‘Lean, was born in 1817 ; educated in 
Dalmonach school, and in Alexandria Parochial School, under the 
present esteemed master, Mr Mushet; and completed his edu¬ 
cation at Circus Place School, Edinburgh. In 1866 he w T as 
entered as an apprentice in the office of the late Mr Hugh Kirk¬ 
wood of Killermont, banker and estate factor, where he served 
till 1874, when he was appointed factor of the Bonhill Estate 
(Mr Smollett’s), and shortly afterwards, of Drumhead Estate 
(Dr Buchanan Dunlop’s), and also of Blairlusk property, belonging 
to the late Colonel Findlay’s trustees. He is local agent for the 
British Linen Company Bank, J.P. for the county, and altogether 
a man of mark. 


LEWIS GUTHRIE, BANK AGENT. 

This erstwhile eminently useful man was born in Alexandria 
in 1802, and there he was brought up. He began his business 
career as a grocer in his native village. After being engaged in 
that occupation for some time, he received the appointment of 
local agent to the Clydesdale Bank, in succession to the late 
Graham Kinloch. 

Prior to leaving the district for Rothesay, to which place Mr 
Guthrie retired in 1881 to spend his declining years, he was pre¬ 
sented with an illuminated address, and a cheque for £166 10s, 
subscribed as a token of esteem by his many friends. The 
address was signed on behalf of the public by John Campbell, chair¬ 
man ; Win. M‘Kinlay, treasurer; and Win, Lochhead, secretary, 


110 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Lewis Guthrie did not long survive his change of residence. 
He died in the capital of Bute on 25th April, 1882, aged 80 
years, and was buiijd in Bonhill churchyard four days there¬ 
after. 

Lewis Guthrie was for many years treasurer of the Lochlomond 
Steamboat Company, and worthily held other appointments. He 
took a very active part in evangelistic work in the Yale of Leven. 
He was an office-bearer in Alexandria Free Church, was a staunch 
Free Church man, and contributed liberally to all its schemes. 
His was a long, active, eminently useful life, which led up to his 
being one of the best known and best beloved men in the Yale 
of Leven. 

Another old and worthy residenter falls to be noticed here. 

WILLIAM M‘KINLAY, 

a gentleman well and favourably known in this district, died on 
11th December, 1890, at the advanced age of 85. Deceased was 
for many years collector and treasurer for the Leven Gas Light 
Company. When Alexandria was in its infancy, and when badly 
off for water, Mr M'Kinlay and a few others promoted a private 
water company to supply part of the village. As a member of 
the Parochial Board and Local Authority, deceased up till a few 
years ago rendered valuable assistance, being regular in his 
attendance at meetings, and most assiduous in looking after the 
interests of the district. He was connected with the Renton 
Reformed Presbyterian Church (now Levenside Free), and offici¬ 
ated as an elder for a long period. When the City of Glasgow" 
Bank came down Mr M‘Kinlay was one of the shareholders, and 
suffered serious loss thereby. In business matters he w^as very 
shrew r d. In local affairs he was well informed, while on.general 
matters he was very intelligent, and had the courage and the 
ability to express his views. Deceased had outlived several 


wives. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Ill 


THREE DUMBARTONIANS. 

Iii the course of ruy note-taking among the tombs, I accident¬ 
ally came upon the tombstones of three erstwhile residenters in 
Dumbarton, whose relics lie side by side in the dust of death at 
the west end of the south wall of the graveyard. 

These, when in the flesh, were hight—Archibald Fergusson, 
painter, town councillor, and elder of the Parish Kirk ; a decent 
worthy, prosperous man. Another was William M‘Farlane, 
grocer and proprietor in the royal burgh, an honest, plain, blunt 
man of the old school, and also an elder of the Kirk. And the 
third of the trio was Robert Lang, a Dumbarton man who had 
little if any of the elder element in his constitution. For a long 
period he held an important position in the office of Merry & 
Cunningham, coalmasters, Glasgow. Latterly he bought the steam 
tug “ Sampson/’ and ran her for a few years on his own account. 
He was a smart man, but possessed of a tiery, ungovernable 
temper. 

The reasons annexed to these worthies being interred outwith 
the bounds of the county town is the shutting up, in 1856, of its 
Auld Kirkyard, after an expensive litigation, to which they were 
parties. Rather than lie within the borders of its new and 
beautiful cemetery, they preferred that their mortal remains 
should decay and be resolved into dust among “ unco folk.” 

Another of these stern old burgesses who felt wroth at being 
denied the privilege of sleeping with his fathers was Lieut. John 
Maxwell, an ex-bailie of the burgh ; and he is buried at Row. 
The ruling spirit, in each of the above cases, was strong in death. 


THREE GENERATIONS OF DRS. 


CULLEN, OF 


“ T11E VALE.” 


John Cullen, surgeon, first of the family to settle in this district, 
was born at Pollokshaws in the year 1800, and died in 1858. He 
married Clementina Elphinstone Fleming, daughter of William 
Fleming of Woodilee, Kirkintilloch, and had issue two daughters 


112 


ALEXANDRIA. 


and three sons. The sons all entered the ranks of the medical pro¬ 
fession. Robert Fleming was a surgeon in the Royal Navy ; 
William Fleming a surgeon in the army (he died of cholera in 
Malta about seventeen years ago; and Dr John Fleming, of “the 
Vale,” who died in 1889, deeply mourned. He was born at The 
Cottage, Renton, in 1828. He graduated in 1848 as licentiate of the 
Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, Glasgow, and in 1863 as 
Doctor of Medicine. He began practice in Renton in 1848, and 
soon held all the parochial and public works’ appointments The 
doctor married Jane Alexander Graham, of the Grahams of 
Allanshaw, and by her had nine of a family, of whom four are 
dead. The surviving live are—Christina Paul, Jane Alexander 
Graham, Katherine Graham, Robert William, and John Robert 
Fleming. The latter was born in Alexandria in December, 1863; 
received his education, first at Alexandria School, then in the 
Royal High School, Edinburgh. He graduated in Glasgow Uni¬ 
versity as Bachelor of Medicine in 1886, was House Surgeon in 
the Western Infirmary and in the Hospital for Skin Diseases of 
that city for a year. Shortly thereafter, on the demise of his 
father, he settled down to his profession in Alexandria and 
district. In 1890 he married Mamie, second daughter of Major 
John MTntyre, Geilston, Cardross. 

The family burying ground is in the Churchyard of Alexandria, 
and there repose the mortal remains of two generations of medical 
men of one family, who did their duty nobly. For others, with 
the last enemy, Death, they had many a tussle ; but at last they 
themselves were overcome by him, made his captives, and con¬ 
signed to the place appointed for all living. 

In this connection 1 give a very brief biographical sketch of 
one of the elder Dr Cullen’s grandsons, also a medical practitioner 
in the Vale. 

JOHN FLEMING CULLEN-BROWN, M.D., C.M., &C., 

Born in Glasgow, Educated in the High School of that city, and 


ALEXANDRIA. 


113 


in classics in its University ; thereafter joined its medical 
classes. Became assistant to Dr Samuel Johnston Moore in the 
Glasgow Royal Infirmary. Afterwards went to England, and 
from thence to Chalmers’ Hospital, Banff. After that admirable 
training, Dr. Brown entered on private practice in the Yale of 
Leven, where he has now been settled for over twenty years. 

In what follows of this chapter I give sketches of the living 
notables of the place, giving the clergy, on account of their sacred 
office, precedence. 

REV. J. CROMARTY SMITH, M.A., B.D., MINISTER OF ALEXANDRIA. 

This esteemed young divine is a son of the manse. He was 
born at the manse of Firth and Stenness, Orkney, in 1863, of 
which united parish his father was the then incumbent. In 1868 
the Rev. Mr Smith, senr., was translated to the church and parish 
of Unst, in Shetland, and there the subject of this notice received 
his elementary education. On leaving school he, with a view to 
entering a University, was put under tutors, and on arriving at 
the age of fifteen years he was enrolled as a student at the Uni¬ 
versity of Edinburgh. When Mr Cromarty Smith had passed 
successfully through the Arts course, he became tutor to the 
family of Lord Polwarth, at his seat in Roxburghshire. In that 
pleasant place and in that godly household Mr Smith spent a few 
peaceful years, during which, however, he had some little perturba¬ 
tion of spirit as to whether he should prepare for the ministry of 
the English Church or the Scottish. He ultimately decided to 
cast in his lot with the latter, and accordingly entered the Divinity 
Hall of the University, as a bursar, in 1883. Having received 
the degrees of M.A. and B.D., he shortly thereafter was appointed 
assistant in Cambusnethan Parish. In that position he remained 
for a year and a half, at the expiry of which time—in December, 
1887—he received a call to Alexandria as assistant to the Rev. 
Mr Kidd, who had long and faithfully laboured in the field. 


114 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Iii April, 1888, that venerable pastor retired. The assistant was 
elected in his stead minister of the church and parish quoad sacra, 
and was ordained to the charge in the following month. His appoint¬ 
ment has been an eminently successful one. In many ways he has 
endeared himself to the people of the parish, and the church under 
his ministrations is in a very flourishing state. 

IlEV. JAMES ALLISON, U.P. CHURCH, ALEXANDRIA. 

Mr Allison was born in 1831, on the farm of Hawbank, East 
Kilbride, Lanarkshire, of which his father was tenant. When he 
was only a lad his father died, and he had to renounce the schol¬ 
astic studies, of which he was so fond, to hold the plough and do 
general farming work to help his mother in the battle of life ; and 
these duties he performed diligently for seven years. When he 
had reached the 24th year of his age his insatiable thirst for 
knowledge and educational acquirements led him back as a student 
to East Kilbride Parish School, to prepare himself for entering a 
University—which he was, by great application, enabled to do at 
the end of eighteen months, when he entered the University of 
Glasgow. Having gone through the usual curriculum, he was 
ordained in 1866 to the pastorate of Oxendon U.P. Church, Lon¬ 
don. After four years’ arduous labour there, his health broke 
down to such a degree as impelled him to resign the charge. 

After Mr Allison had given himself rest for a few years he got 
once more into good form, and undertook the charge of Boston 
Church, Cupar Fife, where he remained for seven years, until he 
accepted the incumbency of the U.P. Church, Alexandria, in 
which he has laboured most devotedly for the last fourteen years. 
The Rev. Mr Allison has one son, who is undergoing a course of 
training with a view to the ministry of the U.P. Church. 

REV. WILLIAM SUTHERLAND, B.D., OF THE FREE CHURCH. 

A native of Leith ; educated at Moray House (Free Church 
Normal School), Edinburgh. Served as pupil teacher in South 


ALEXANDRIA. 


115 


Leith Free Church School. Entered University of Edinburgh in 
1865, and after a three years’ curriculum in Arts, graduated M.A. 
Entered Free Church New College, Edinburgh, in 1868, and after 
a four years’ course in Divinity, graduated in 1872 B.D. of Edin¬ 
burgh University. Licensed same year by Free Church Presby¬ 
tery of Edinburgh. Ordained Free Church Minister of Alexandria 
on 18th May, 1874. He is a member of the Edinburgh Univer¬ 
sity Council. 


FATHER DE BACKER. 

Father de Backer is a Belgian, born in Bruges in 1854, in the 
Episcopal College of which place he studied for the ministry until 
he had reached his nineteenth year, and then he entered Arch¬ 
bishop Eyre’s Seminary at Partick-Hill, Glasgow, where he 
remained under tuition for a few years. Ordained priest in 1877, 
he received the appointment of assistant in St. Michael’s, Park- 
head, where he laboured for two years, and was then transferred 
to Maryhill. xVfter working in this new field for other two years, 
he was removed to St. Mary’s, Glasgow. He was not allowed to 
remain long there, for shortly after he had entered on his pastor¬ 
ate he received orders to take charge of a new mission station in 
Hamilton. The worthy Father, after having done good, honest 
work in that town for five years, was removed three years ago to 
the Yale of Leven, where he has the spiritual oversight of between 
two and three thousand souls—truly an awful responsibility, but 
one which the zealous ecclesiastic does his very best to discharge 
faithfully, as in the sight of God. 

The chapel in Alexandria in which Father De Backer’s flock 
worship is a Gothic building, dedicated to “ Our Lady and St. 
Mark.” It is capable of holding about 530 worshippers. In con¬ 
nection with it there are two schools, attended by 400 pupils. 
There are also various other agencies at work for the elevation of 
the adherents of the old, old Church. 


116 


ALEXANDRIA. 


The subject of this brief notice is a useful member of the 
Cardross and Bonhill School Boards. 

The other ministers of the Gospel at Alexandria are the Revs. 
Martin Luther Camburn, Wesleyan; John Campbell, Baptist, 
and W. H. bidders]ey, Episcopalian. The last named arrogates 
to himself the title of “ The Priest in charge of the Vale.” 

J will now go on to speak of notable living laymen of Alexan¬ 
dria and its vicinage; and in the forefront of these I would men¬ 
tion the leading incidents in the life of 

WILLIAM EWING GILMOUR OF CROFTENGEA. 

This large-hearted, open-handed man was born at Torquay, 
Devonshire, in 1854. He was educated at the Academy and 
University of Edinburgh. Receiving an ample fortune from his 
father, Allan Gilmour, Esq., of Eaglesham, he did not require to 
go into business of any kind ; but in 1874, at the urgent request 
of his uncle, John Orr Ewing, of Alexandria and Levenfield 
Works, Mr William Ewing Gilmour was induced to take up his 
abode in the Vale of Leven, with a view to a partnership in the 
firm of John Orr Ewing & Co.—which view became an accom- 
plished fact on 1st January, 1878. 

While Mr Ewing Gilmour has the reputation of being a most at 
tentive business man,yet it is patent to all that his capacity for work 
is not exhausted thereby. In 1876, when only twenty-one years of 
age, he was elected a member of the Bonhill School Board, and 
was at its first meeting chosen chairman thereof—which position 
he still retains, with credit to himself and with advantage to the 
community. To stimulate a love for learning, he has founded a 
bursary of <£25, tenable for two years, to be competed for by 
pupils attending the Board Schools. 

For the past sixteen years the subject of this brief sketch has 
been the heart, soul, and mainspring of the Lochlomond Regatta 








ALEXANDRIA. 


117 


Club. He is also chairman of the Trustees of Alexandria Quoad 

Sacra Parish Church, member of the Bonhill Parochial Board, 

Commissioner of Supply and Justice of Peace for the County of 

Dumbarton. He takes a keen interest in agricultural pursuits, 

and has been chairman of the Glasgow Agricultural Society for a 

number of years. 

%/ 

William Ewing Gilmour a few years ago erected and endowed 
at Alexandria the Ewing Gilmour Institute for Men, at a cost of 
£12,000. The design of the building is chaste, the workmanship 
exceptionally good, the supply of literature abundant, and the 
means afforded within its borders for recreation of such a charac¬ 
ter that any town in the kingdom might feel proud of such an 
institute, and also of its donor. More recently this princely 
benefactor of the district has erected and endowed, at a cost of 
£20,000, an Institute for Women, of a charmingly picturesque 
external appearance, and fitted up internally in the best taste, 
regardless of expense. But as views of these Institutes, and de¬ 
scriptions of them, are given in connection with this notice, I will 
not here say more on these subjects. 

In 1882, William Ewing Gilmour married Jessie Gertrude, 
third daughter of James Campbell of Tullichewan, and has issue. 
This union of hearts and minds has been fraught with blessings, 
not only to the contracting parties, but also to the district at 
large. In the carrying out of work for the public good, as in 
many other matters, two are better than one, and Mr and Mrs 
Ewing Gilmour are fine examples of the blessed fruits borne by a 
couple zealously minded to good works. 

There is a natural and reasonable desire on the part of the pub¬ 
lic to know something about the forbears of those who fill a large 
space in the public eye, and I proceed to gratify the same regard¬ 
ing the progenitors and connections of him who is the principal 
theme of this notice. 

W. E. Gilmour is a descendant of the Gilmours of Pollok, 


118 


ALEXANDRIA, 


Gilmour & Co., eminent lumber merchants, shipbuilders and ship¬ 
owners. In 1804, Allan Gilmour, in conjunction with his relative 
Allan Pollok, established the firm of Pollok, Gilmour & Co.> 
which was destined to high commercial distinction. At first they 
traded with Norway and Sweden, their Glasgow office being at 
19 Union Street. They also opened a branch at Grangemouth, 
under the charge of Arthur Pollok, who made this port his resi¬ 
dence for many years. In 1808 they diverted their trade to 
America, and Allan Gilmour was then dispatched to New Bruns¬ 
wick, where he established branch houses at St. John, Miramichi, 
Bathust, Chaleur Bay, and an important house and shipbuilding 
yard at Quebec. Up country, extensive forests were acquired, 
and saw-mills erected throughout them, on a scale hitherto un¬ 
dreamt of. 

Shipowning, which had begun on the Clyde with the construc¬ 
tion of a coaster of fifty tons burthen, soon became an important 
feature in their business, and attained, by degrees, to a tonnage 
greater than that of any contemporary firm in the United 
Kingdom. 

The co-partnery as originally constituted underwent consider¬ 
able changes during the seventy years of its existence. In 1812, 
Allan Gilmour’s brother James, father of Allan Gilmour, laird of 
Eaglesham and a noted agriculturist, and grandfather of William 
Ewing Gilmour of Croftengea, joined the house as a partner, as 
also did Alexander Rankin ; and they were attached to the 
Miramichi establishment, and proceeded thither on board the 
“ Mary,” a vessel of 180 tons burthen. They were landed at the 
mouth of the river, up which the craft could not proceed by rea¬ 
son of ice blocking the way. The two passengers forthwith walked 
to Chatham, and the good ship “ Mary ” wintered at Prince 
Edward Island. 

Several of Allan Gilmour’s nephews were afterwards received 
into the business, the best known of whom in Glasgow was Allan 













































EWING G1LMOUR INSTITUTE FOR MEN. 
































































































































































































ALEXANDRIA. 


119 


Gilmour of Lundin and Montrave. He had been sent to Mira- 
michi in 1821, at the age of sixteen, and becoming a partner in 
1837, soon rose to be at the head of the house, and continued so 
till his retirement in 1870. 

John Pollok retired from the co-partnery in 1853, and died in 
1858. Arthur Pollok withdrew in 1853, and died in 1870. Allan 
Gilmour of Montrave left the concern in 1870, and deceased in 1885. 

The company was coincident with the rise and early develop¬ 
ment of the great Canadian lumber trade, and saw the culmination 
and decline of the important wooden shipbuilding industry. 

In 1872 the old-established house was re-constructed, and the 
firm altered to that of Allan Gilmour & Co. It is now carried on by 
four cousins named Gilmour, who worthily represent the original 
founders of the colossal concern. The vast estates held by the 
descendants of the various members of the firm of Pollok, Gilmour 
& Co. in the counties of Renfrew, Argyll, Fife, and in the west of 
Ireland, attest forcibly as to the amount of wealth and high 
position which the company had achieved under the enlightened 
and enterprising guidance of two generations of partners. 

I now describe the Institutes referred to in Mr W. E. Gilmour’s 
biography. 


THE EWING GILMOUR INSTITUTE FOR MEN. 

The foundation stone of this Institute was laid on 22nd June, 
1882, amid great jubilation. The demonstration on that auspicious 
occasion was one of the largest ever witnessed in the Yale of Leven. 
The stone was laid by the Provincial Grand Master of the district, 
Brother J. M. Martin, then younger of Auchendennan, who made 
an admirable speech, in which he paid a just tribute to the virtues 
of his predecessor in the office, Brother Alexander Smollett of 
Bonhill, and spoke highly of Brother Ewing Gilmour’s great gener¬ 
osity in erecting such an admirable Institute for the benefit of the 
village of Alexandria, in which he had chosen to cast his lot. 


120 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Before proceeding to lay the foundation stone, and after the Grand 
Chaplain had offered up prayer, Miss Jessie Gertrude Campbell 
(now Mrs W. E. Gilmour), in the most graceful manner, presented 
the Provincial Grand Master with a beautiful silver trowel (on 
which was engraven a suitable inscription), to enable him properly 
to do the work. After the stone was duly laid, Brother Gilmour 
made a short speech in the way of returning thanks to the various 
bodies, and also to the various individuals who in their thousands 
had turned out to grace the proceedings, and hoped that the chief 
object he had in view in erecting this Institute, viz., the elevation of 
the people amongst whom he dwelt, might by its agency be advanced. 

On the opening of the Institute, on August 6th, 1884, Mr W. 
E. Gilmour was entertained to Dinner in the Public Hall of Alex¬ 
andria, by the merchants of the Yale of Leven, in recognition of the 
value they attached to his munificent gift to the community. Patrick 
Boyle Smollett, Esq., of Bonhill, the then Convener of the County, 
occupied the chair, supported on the right by the guest. The toast 
of the evening, “The health of the donor, Mr Ewing Gilmour,” 
was proposed by the chairman in most felicitous terms, and his re¬ 
marks were enthusiastically received by the large audience. Mr 
Ewing Gilmour, in replying, thanked Mr Smollett for the graceful 
but all to flattering manner in which he had proposed his health. 
He valued the honour just conferred upon him for its own 
sake, but the value was to him doubled on account of its 
coming from his friends and neighbours. It was a matter to 
him of profound thankfulness, that in the carrying out of his 
various local projects he had secured the approbation of the 
entire community. In Mrs Gilmour’s name as well as in his own 
he thanked the company for the compliment they had paid them, 
and he assured them that in all he had done for the people of the 
Yale of Leven he had had the cordial sympathy and active, 
hearty co-operation of Mrs Gilmour. 

The complimentary meeting, which was graced by the presence of 


ALEXANDRIA. 


121 


most of the local county gentlemen, was a great success, and 
quite worthy of the occasion. 

The Ewing Gilmour Institute, in connection with the opening 
of which the complimentary dinner referred to above was held, 
is in three seperate parts, and is built in the Grecian and Egyptian 
styles of architecture. The doorway is in the centre, and leads 
direct to the conversation hall. In front of this, and to the right 
of the vestibule, is the smoking room. The section of the building 
to the right contains the principal hall. The portion to the left 
embraces coffee-room, committee-room, and lavatory, and an 
attendant’s house above. While the building as a whole has an 
imposing appearance, it is the right section that impresses the 
beholder most favourably. In it there are three massive square 
columns supporting a pediment which crowns the structure, and 
gives dignity to it. Between the columns referred to there are 
three plate glass windows, fifteen feet long by six feet broad. 
The gable of this portion of the building also contains three 
similar columns, but they support no pediment. In the gable there 
are four windows, which, with the other three, give light, air, and 
beauty to tlie large hall. The centre part of the Institute is not 
so high as that just described, but it is not behind it in attractive¬ 
ness. In this section the door is to the extreme left, while to the 
right there are three windows, ten feet by five, divided by solid 
columns, and those give light to the smoking room, where the jaded 
inhabitant may soothe his perturbed soul with the fragrant weed, 
the world forgetting, by the world forgot. 

In the left section of the building there is the janitor’s house, 
which is lighted by four windows at the top of the building, with 
with one under to give light to the coffee-rooms. 

Having viewed the building exteriorly, I now enter it and 
describe its interior. In the doorway there are two square pillars 
surmounted by Corinthian capitals in stone. When six steps are 
ascended the entrance door is reached. On each side of it there 
I 


122 


ALEXANDRIA. 


is a pillar of stone, surmounted by tlie cap of the door, bearing 
this inscription :—“ This Institute was erected by William Ewing 
Gilmour of Croftengea, in memory of his uncle, John Orr Ewing 
of Levenfield, and presented to the inhabitants of the Yale of 
Leven.” 

These columns and the cap are relieved with dentile enrich¬ 
ment, and heavy mouldings, &c. The entrance door is of oak, 
and contains a large plate glass pane with the legend, “ Ewing 
Gilmour Institute,” carved thereon. Within it is the vestibule 
of the building, which measures eleven feet, by eight feet wide, and 
is floored with Mosaic tiles, and roofed with heavy plaster cornices. 
The walls of the vestibule are panelled five feet high with dado 
lining in beautifully polished Riga wainscoting oak. Round the 
side of the doorway leading to the conversation hall there are 
most exquisite fluted pillasters and door cap. Proceeding through 
the doorway to the left, it is impressed upon one that in this 
quarter the inner-man may be refreshed, for is not this significant 
inscription, “Coffee Room,” emblazoned on its door. The requisite 
stoves and other work of a similar description in it are by Messrs 
Waddell & Main, of Glasgow; and the woodwork is of solid 
mahogany, in keejnng with the other work in the building, by 
Messrs John M‘Auslan & Son, of Dumbarton. The grand lavatory 
forms the next place in the vestibule, and in it Messrs Baird & 
M‘Intyre, plumbers, Alexandria, have shown forth their abilities 
to the full. 

The conversation hall of the building is 27 feet long, 13 feet 
wide, and 14 feet high, having a flooring of Mosaic tiles. In 
general appearance it resembles the vestibule, with this exception, 
that the roof is arched, and panelled with heavy plaster work. 
This hall is lighted by means of three large-sized cupolas, and there 
are in the apartment two ventilators ; whilst to give artificial 
light to the place at night there are ten brackets. To the left of 
the above room there is the one set apart for the committee, which 


ALEXANDRIA. 


123 


is finished in richly figured, polished pitch pine, and is lit by three 
large windows in the eastern gable. It contains a library case 
capable of accommodating fully six hundred volumes. There is 
also in it a large oaken table and the requisite number of chairs. 
In returning to the conversation hall, the smoking room, to the 
front of the building, is entered, and it is 20 feet long by 17 feet 
wide, and finished in British oak. Its tables are of light marble, 
its chairs oak, its lining wainscoting, and its roof panelled. 
Artificial light is administered to this apartment by means of eight 
beautiful gas brackets The reading room is in close proximity to 
the smoke room, and is 31 feet by 21 feet, with a ceiling of 20 feet 
in height. The floor, like that of the smoke room, is of polished 
oak. In this place the daily and weekly papers, and the fort¬ 
nightly, monthly, and quarterly periodicals, can be perused in the 
greatest comfort. 

The ceremony of handing over the Institute for the benefit of 
the public was the means of drawing together the leading ladies 
and gentlemen of the district. Mr W. E. Gilmour, in declaring 
it open, stated that the Ewing Gilmour Institute is attached to no 
ecclesiastical denomination or political creed. Whatever a man’s 
religion or politics may be, he is heartily invited to enter, and all 
that is required of him is to abide by the not too stringent rules 
of the Institute. 

A great and a good man not infrequently, in this enlightened 
nineteenth century, secures in his lifetime tangible tokens of the 
esteem in which he is held by his fellows. This has happened 
more than once to AVilliam Ewing Gilmour of Oroftengea. 

On the evening of 20th May, 1891, the inhabitants of the Yale 
of Leven again met to do him honour. He had already gifted to 
the community an Institute for men, and he was on the following 
day to hand over to the people an Institute for women ; and on 
these and other grounds a large and representative meeting con¬ 
vened in the Alexandria Public Hall to witness the presentation 


124 


ALEXANDRIA. 


to him of his own and his wife’s portrait. The proceedings 
throughout were of the most enthusiastic description. 

County Councillor James Shearer presided, and with him there 
were on the platform, Mr and Mrs Ewing Gilmour, and the mem¬ 
bers of the committee who had charge of the arrangements in 
connection with the presentation. 

Mr J. B. Mackenzie, as convener of the committee, presented 
Mr Ewing Gilmour with the portraits, which are of three-quarter 
size, and admirable likenesses. They are encased in massive gilt 
frames, and each bears the following inscription :—“ Presented 
to William Ewing Gilmour, Esq., of Croftengea, by the inhabitants 
of the Yale of Leven, as a mark of their high appreciation of the 
many benefits he has conferred upon the community. 20th May, 
1891.” The artist is Mr Joseph Henderson, Glasgow. 

Mr Gilmour, on behalf of himself and Mrs Gilmour, returned 
hearty thanks for the compliment just paid them. It v 7 as unlooked- 
for, but none the less welcome on that account. 

The portraits find fit resting place in the 

EWING-GILMOUR INSTITUTE FOR WOMEN. 

This Institute was built from plans prepared by Messrs John 
Burnet, Son, & Campbell, architects, Glasgow'. It is situated at 
the extreme north west end of Gilmour Street, and has also a 
frontage to a new street which runs at right angles thereto. 

The style of architecture is the Scotch domestic, and a highly 
picturesque effect is produced in this instance by its skilful adapta¬ 
tion to the requirements of the case. I v 7 as recently much struck, 
while visiting the goodly pile, with the care which had been taken 
that every thing, even the most trivial, in connection with the 
Institute, should be thoroughly artistic, and of the best possible 
description. Had the place been erected for the use of the female 
members of the nobility and gentry of the land, instead of humble 
women who live by toil, it could not have been made more attrac- 



EWING GILMOUR INSTITUTE FOR WOMEN. 




































































































































ALEXANDRIA. 


125 


tive, or have been better equipped. After the hum drum routine 
of daily work for bread is over, the working girl or woman can 
enter here, and find not only happiness and comfort, but be 
benefitted morally, physically, educationally, and intellectually. 

It was forcibly impressed upon my mind, while pacing the cor¬ 
ridors, noble apartments, and stately hall of the edifice, that even 
the doing so was educative in. it effects, apart from all else which 
the Institute offers in that direction to its frequenters. Verily, 
the carrying out of such a work is like mercy, twice blest, blessing 
alike him who gives and they who take. 

Having given above a general idea of the character and object 
of the building, I go on to say a few words in regard to its inter¬ 
nal arrangements and other matters not already treated of. 

The principal elevation, in which is the main entrance, is to 
Gilmour Street, with a frontage of 140ft., the frontage to the new 
street being 56ft. in length. 

The elevation to Gilmour Street is composed of a tower at the 
east end, in which is the main entrance, and which is the only 
portion of the building containing two storeys, the porter’s 
private rooms being on the first floor. This tower is connected 
with the main hall at the west end of the group by a lew-lying 
building containing class-room and library. 

The hall, with its large gable end to Gilmour Street, and its 
side forming the elevation to the new street, forms the principal 
feature of the group. 

Access to the buildings, as I have said, is gained from the Gil¬ 
mour Street front; a vestibule measuring 13ft. by 7ft. Gin. 
communicating with the entrance hall, which measures 12ft. Gin. 
by 12ft. Gin., and from which is the entrance to the gardens and 
tennis court. 

A cloister, measuring 48ft. by 7ft. Gin., extends along the back, 
from which the common hall, situated at the west end of the 
building, is reached. This hall measures 52ft., by 30ft. by 37ft. 


120 


ALEXANDRIA; 


high, with small gallery at one end, and is used for various pur¬ 
poses. 

Situated along the front, between the common hall and the 
main entrance, are the library, containing 2,700 volumes, and 
class-room. The library which has communication with the com¬ 
mon hall, measures 30ft. by 20ft.; the class-room 20ft by 14ft. 

To the east of the entrance hall, extending along the back, is 
the bath department. The buildings, measuring about 52ft. by 
17ft., contain 4 bath-rooms, each measuring Oft. by 9ft.; cloak¬ 
rooms, 10ft. by 9ft. ; lavatory, lift, by 10ft., and W.C. accom¬ 
modation. 

The porter’s house, with all necessary accommodation, yard and 
washing green, occupy the front portion of the east end of the 
buildings. 

The floors of the rooms are inlaid oak. On the walls of the 
library sacred texts are carved, and on the stonework above the 
doors of the corridor the following Scotch proverbs are hewn out: 
—-“Want o’ wit is waur nor want o’ gear ;” “ Do what ye ought 
and come what can ; ” “Think o’ ease but work on;” “Wark 
bears witness wha daes week” On the panels of the large hall 
and cloister a series of oil paintings by Mr Harrington Mann, 
Glasgow, are being placed. In the large hall one of these is com¬ 
plete, and treats of the duties and industries of women. The 
centre figure is that of a young mother, and to the right a girl 
supporting an old man. Another group of women represents 
different indoor labour, and another outdoor workers. The cloister 
panels represent “Scotch pastoral ballads.” 

The leading contractors for the work were ■—Mason work, 
Wm. Barlas, Alexandria; wriglit work, John Nairn, Balloch ; 
roof tile work, A. & D. Mackay, Glasgow ; plumber work, Baird, 
MTntyre & Co., Alexandria; plaster work, John Hutcheson, 
Dumbarton ; stone carving work, John M £ Culloch, London ; heat¬ 
ing and ventilation, Musgrave & Co., Belfast, through J. Finlay 


ALEXANDRIA. 


127 


ct Co., Glasgow ; painting of roof timbers, John Orr & Co., Glas¬ 
gow ; wrought iron railings, gates, lamps, &c., Starkie, Gardner 
& Co., London; ornamental beaded glass work, J. it W. Guthrie, 
Glasgow ; Thomas Douglas, clerk of works. 

This institute, erected by Mr and Mrs W. E. Gilmour of 
Croftengea, Alexandria, and presented to the inhabitants of the 
Yale of Leven for the Scotch Girls’ Friendly Society, was formally 
opened on Thursday evening, 21st May, 1891. In addition to 
the members and associates of the S.G.F.S., numbering about 350, 
the leading families in the district were present. Mr Gilmour 
presided, and was supported on the right by Mrs Gilmour, and on 
the left by Mrs Campbell of Tillichewan. After devotional 
exercises conducted by the Rev. J. Cromarty Smith, and music 
by a choir conducted by Mr J. F. M‘Farlane, the chairman gave 
the inaugural address. Votes of thanks were afterwards given. 

MAJOR GENERAL GILDEA, C.B., BROMLEY HOUSE. 

The family of Gildea is of ancient Milesian descent, and the 
family pedigree deduces it from the ancient monarchs of Ireland. 
At the time (1708) when that document was drawn up, the head 
of the house was James Gildea, Esq., of Golough and Port Royal, 
Magistrate for County Mayo, and High Sheriff about the year 
1723, whose eldest son, James Gildea of Clooncormack, had seven 
sons, two of whom entered the army—Andrew, in the Royal Irish 
Artillery, and a.d.c. to the Duke of Rutland ; William, in the 
62nd Regiment. The youngest, Thomas, born 1770, had issue, 
James, and George Robert (The Very Rev.), Provost of Tuam, 
rector of Moylough, and rural dean, whose eldest son, George 
Frederick, of whom we now speak, entered the army in 1848 ; 
became Captain, 1858; Major, 1873 ; Lieut.-Colonel, 1879; 
Colonel, 1881, and Major General (retired) in 1886. Served in 
Turkish contingent in the Crimea (Turkish medal); was Inspector 
General of Gymnasia at Aldershot, 1876-80; Commanded 2nd 


i 28 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Battalion 21st Royal Scots Fusiliers and garrison of Pretoria in 
Transvaal war. 1880-81 ; also commanded Troops at taking of 
Swasty Ivoppie (where lie was fired on under a flag of truce), and 
at several sorties made from Pretoria (severely wounded). Several 
times mentioned in despatches, and a.d.c. to the Queen. Was 
Acting Adjutant and Quarter-Master General of Suakim field 
force, 1884 (medal and bronze star). Married, first (1863), Fanny, 
second daughter of Major Tuland Gascoyne of Mackery, Balina- 
sloe; second, Eliza, R.R.C. (who received the order of the Royal 
Red Cross for her services to the sick and wounded at Pretoria 
during the investment of that place by the Boers), daughter of 
James Campbell, Esq., J.P., D.L., of Tullichewan Castle. Created 
C.B., 1886. Is in possession of pension for Distinguished 
Service. Is a Magistrate for the county of Dumbarton. 

Bromley House, Alexandria. Army and Navy Club, London. 

BROCKS OF AUCHENHEGLISII. 

Henry Brock, first of Auchenheglish, was born 12th July, 1837. 
He was son of Henry Brock, manager of the Clydesdale Bank } 
Glasgow, from its formation in 1838 till his death in 1852. After 
a careful scholastic training, Henry Brock the younger spent a 
few years in the Glasgow office of Archd. Orr Ewing & Co., and 
in that of Robert Alexander & Co. When John Orr Ewing, after 
his short retiral from business, began it again in 1860, in Croften- 
gea turkey-red dye works, Alexandria, with which he was formerly 
connected, he offered Henry Brock a leading position in his 
Glasgow office, which was accepted. Ten years thereafter (in 
1870), Mr Brock was assumed as a partner in the firm of John 
Orr Ewing & Co. In 1878, on the death of the head of the firm, 
Henry Brock became senior partner of it, and continued so until 
his death. 

In March, 1863, Mr Brock married Miss Elizabeth Slade 
Price, daughter of Commander Price, R N, (of the Moorings, 


ALEXANDRIA. 


129 


Anglesey). She died in February, 1871. Henry Brock died in 
May, 1887, and left a family of two sons and three daughters. 
He was a J.P. for Dumbartonshire. In politics he was a Con¬ 
servative. In public affairs he took no active part. He became 
proprietor of Auchenheglish in 1882. 

His eldest son Henry, now of Auchenheglish, was born 18th 
April, 1864, and became a partner in the firm of John Orr Ewing 
(k Co., in January 1887. He is a captain in 1st Dumbartonshire 
Rifle Volunteers, a J.P. for the county, and a member of the 
Dumbartonshire County Council, and thus shows a laudable 
desire to do a fair share of public work, and not to live for self 
alone, in inglorious ease. 

JOHN CHRISTIE, OF ALEXANDRIA WORKS. 

This well known, influential, and highly respected inhabitant of 
the Vale of Leven was born about half-a-century ago in or near 
Barrhead. Hot being born with the proverbial silver spoon in his 
mouth, he was sent early to work, and was for a time with an 
uncle—a Mr Hyde—assisting in his silk dye-works, at Port- 
Dundas, Glasgow. Simultaneously, while in this employment, he 
studied chemistry under Dr. Wallace of that city. 

About thirty years ago, on the recommendation of Dr. Wallace, 
he was appointed chemist to John Orr Ewing <fc Co., Alexandria 
Works. For about fifteen years Mr Christie held that position, 
and latterly was assistant manager. Upon Matthew Clark, the 
managing partner, leaving the firm, he was promoted to be 
manager, and in 1878 was raised to the position of partner on the 
late Mr John Orr Ewing re-arranging the firm at the close of 
that year. Mr Christie has never posed as a public man, but 
for all that he has done, and is still doing, good work for the 
public. Many years ago he took an active interest in starting 
chemistry and other classes in the Vale. He is a member of the 
Philosophical Society of Glasgow, and has read important papers 


130 


ALEXANDRIA. 


before its members. Further, lie is a member of the Parochial 
Board and School Board of Bonhill, and of the County Council. 
He is also a J.P. for Dumbartonshire. The friendly Societies 
of the Yale have in Mr Christie a good friend, and so have the 
people in his employment. He is an office-bearer of the U.P. 
Church, and a liberal supporter of all its schemes. 

JAMES MUSIIET, F.E.I.S. 

No gentleman is better known or more highly respected in 
Alexandria than my acquaintance of fully forty years’ standing, 
Mr Janies Mushet, F.E.I.S., the genial and talented head master 
of Main Street School. A native of Glasgow, he received his 
early education in St. John’s Parish School, and afterwards for 
four years in one of the city endowed schools. Following his own 
bent, as well as complying with the desire of his parents, he 
determined to follow out a literary profession. Accordingly, he 
entered the High School of Glasgow in 1839, where he completed 
the full curriculum of all the classes for four years ; distinguish¬ 
ing himself as a medallist and prizeman in several of his classes. 
(It may be interesting to state that among his school-fellows who 
have since distinguished themselves, there were Sir John Cuthbert- 
son, Wm. Cunningham, late manager of the Clydesdale Bank, and 
Mr Keith, auctioneer.) With the view of entering the ministry, 
Mr Mushet attended for two years the classes of Professors 
Ramsay, Lushington, and Buchanan, at Glasgow University. 
During the vacation time of these sessions, he had charge of a 
boarding school at Dunoon, in the first year; while in the second, 
he acted as tutor to a gentleman’s family in Inverness-shire. This 
gave him a love for the teaching profession, his first situation 
being as second-master in Dumbarton Academy in 1848, under 
the late Gilbert Turner, Esq., its much beloved and popular 
rector. 

In 1850 he was appointed head-master of one of the Abbey 


ALEXANDRIA. 


131 


Parish Schools, Paisley; his status therefore, as a Parish teacher, 
covering a period of over forty years. His success in Paisley was 
quite phenomenal. The school was twice enlarged, and a com¬ 
mencement for a third extension was made in 1857, when he was 
offered the appointment at Alexandria, which he accepted, and 
which he has since so ably filled. Since this date also he has 
acted as session clerk and trustee of Alexandria Parish Church, 
and is the only one now surviving of the original trustees. A 
lover of outdoor sports, Mr Mushet was one of the few promoters 
of the Alexandria Bowling Club, of which he is still a member. 
In the Yale of Leven Mechanics’ Institution he* took a lively 
interest, and acted as its president for many years. 

After so many years spent in the discharge of such onerous duties, 
Mr Mushet is still hale and hearty, and possesses as much enthusi¬ 
asm for his work as the youngest teacher in the profession. Since 
the passing of the Education Act in 1872, about five thousand 
pupils have been enrolled in his school, which was never more 
flourishing or popular than at the present time. 

Mr Mushet married, in 1855, Margaret Hurst, daughter of 
Samuel Hurst, Esq., H.M.I.R., and has been a widower since 
1867. His only surviving daughter, Mary Bain, is married to 
Mr John B. MacKenzie, M.A., who, after a considerable number 
of years’ successful work as a teacher in Alexandria, is now a 
student in the Glasgow Divinity Hall of the Church of Scotland. 




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Chapter £ V. 


BONHILL AND JAMESTOWN. 

-IflOR very many centuries the Parish Kirk of Bonhill has been 
used as a place where the only living and true God has been 
worshipped, and where, ’neatli its shade, the dead of many gener¬ 
ations have found quiet rest, life’s fitful fever o’er. 

It is conjectured that the situation of the sacred edifice at “ the 
foot of the rivulet ” has given its name to the whole parish. From 
that derivation it was anciently called “ Buthelulle,” “ Bohtlul,” 
£ * Buchlul,” “Balul,” “ Bond,” and other cognomens leading up to 
Bonhill, its present appellation, pronounced Bond by the inhabit¬ 
ants of the Vale and many others. 

The Church of Bonhill is mentioned as far back as the middle 
of the thirteenth century, in a charter granted by Donald, Earl 
of Lennox. The superiorities are therein confirmed to Robert de 
Dunbretane, Clerico. The living was in the gift of the house of 
Lennox. In 1450 it was bestowed on the Collegiate Church of 
























BONHILL. 133 

"Dumbarton by Isabella, Duchess of Albany and Countess of Len¬ 
nox. In later times, the cure was served by a vicar-pensioner. 
On the dissolution of the Collegiate establishment, the Parish of 
Bonhill may be supposed to have reverted to its original indepen¬ 
dent position. In 1458, Sir James Hamilton was rector of 
Bonhill, and since his period the charge has been served in 
succession by about twenty-five clergymen, including, the present 
incumbent. 

Apparently there is still lusty life in the auld kirk,” for its 
members, adherents, and friends have at this present erected an 
imposing, costly, Gothic building, at the northern extremity of the 
kirkyard, for the efficient carrying on within its walls of Sabbath 
school and other church work. 

As the Bonhill Parish Church Hall is really a public one, 
devoted to parochial uses of the most momentous nature, my 
readers will not think that I have acted unwisely in giving a 
brief description of it. 

The front elevation of the building faces the Main Street, and 
one of the side elevations skirts the nothern avenue of approach 
to the kirk. 

The building is set back seven feet from the line of the street, 
and has a low parapet wall, ornamental railing, and gates in front. 
The main building is divided into two sections ; the front one 
give ample facilities for entrance, good library accommodation, 
quarters for caretaker, and one large class-room ■ the second 
section is composed of the spacious hall, seated for 400 persons, 
at the back of which and in connection there is an erection which 
contains two class-rooms, and sufficient lavatory and office accom¬ 
modation for the entire suite of rooms. 

All the apartments are well lighted and ventilated, and the 
structure as a whole reflects great credit on its architects, Messrs 
Boston, Menzies, & Morton, Greenock and Bonhill, as well as on 


134 


BONHILL. 


the gentlemen who so handsomely subscribed for its erection, and 
the committee who had charge of the work. 

With the aid of a grant from the Baird Trust, the Parish 
Church hall has been opened free of debt. That happy consum¬ 
mation has been brought about principally by the exertions of 
the indefatigable minister of the parish, the Rev. William Simpson. 
The subscriptions to the building fund ranged from one shilling to 
one hundred pounds. The total cost of the structure was about 
£1500. The hearty union of rich and poor in the good work of 
its erection is refreshing to contemplate. 

The situation of the kirk, manse, hall, and kirkyard of Bonhill, 
beside the smooth flowing waters of the Leven, is fine. The 
spacious house where prayer is won’t to be made, and its massive 
square tower, belted by trees of ancient growth, and surrounded 
by its God's Acre, where the wicked cease from troubling and the 
weary are at rest, is an object of great interest and beauty. 

The church is also internally fair to see. It contains a first- 
class organ, to aid in the service of praise, which is at all times 
rendered here in a most charming, hearty manner. There is an 
average attendance of 1150 parishioners upon the ordinary diets 
of worship. Behind the Church, but in a higher, airier elevation, 
stands the new manse—very different in that and other respects 
from the manse of “ Old Gregor,” a former minister, which lay in 
the hollow, and was latterly altogether a miserable habitation. 
Behind the manse the Dumbarton Road runs, flanked by houses 
secular and sacred, which form the southern portion of the 
village, having for background smooth, gently undulating, fertile, 
beautious, richly wooded hills—the combined whole making up a 
very pretty picture. 

Down to 1st November, 1845, when it was levelled by a fierce 
gale, there grew in the kirkyard an ash tree of quite phenomenal 
dimensions. In 1784 it was 17 feet 9 inches in circumference at 
a height of five feet. One foot above ground it measured 33 


BONHILL. 


135 


feet in girth. At a height of six feet, the trunk divided 
itself into three great arms. Latterly its trunk became hollow, 
and its branches were clasped with iron bands, so as to prevent 
them from breaking off from the stock by their own weight. When 
this monarch bit the dust, there were formed from its bole many 
articles of furniture, which met with a ready sale, and are highly 
prized by their possessors on account of the beautiful markings 
which the wood exhibits. There are two chairs in the vestibule 
of the kirk of Bonhill made out of its wood, gifted by “ Old 
Gregor,” of happy memory. 

The kirkyard of Bonhill is large and populous, a goodly portion 
of the ground erstwhile belonging to “ Lang’s wee field ” being 
now embraced in it, and well tenanted. The burial ground is not 
given up to the dominion of the dock and nettle, weeds which 
fatten on dead men’s graves ; but for all that the place of sepul¬ 
ture cannot be called a garden one. It has. all over its area, large 
numbers of well executed, well designed stones of memorial. 

Abutting on its southern extremity there are a goodly number 
of freestone enclosures, a few of which have really some claim to 
be termed elegant. These are devoted to the housing of the 
earthly tabernacles of the more illustrious dead of the parish, 
such as the Buchanan’s of Ardoch, Dennistoun-Brown’s of Balloch 
Castle (within their plot two lovely white marble Ionic crosses 
rear their fair, suggestive forms), Rouets of Auchendennan, 
Robert Arthur of Dillichip, the Turnbulls of Bonhill Place, and 
the Rev. William Gregor, Minister of Bonhill. 

A short distance north of these tombs, on the eastern boundary 
of the place of burial, there stands the most imposing of all the 
mausoleums of the graveyard, ft was erected by the Martins of 
Auchendennan, for the reception of their dead. It is built in the 
form of a circular-topped Gothic arch, with richly sculptured 
pediment, on which are carved the family arms in relief. Its roof 
is flagged. Its entrance gate is iron, and is of massive mould, tine 


136 


BONHILL. 


design, and admirable workmanship. Over the vault in which the 
dead lie there is a heavy iron lid, the top of which stands a foot 
or so above the level, and has a cross stamped into the entire 
length of its substance. 

The Kippens of Westerton and Busby have, in the near neigh 
bourhood of the Martin burying place, caused to be raised against 
the east wall a tripartite, upright, highly polished, red granite 
monument, beautiful in the sweet simplicity of its design. 

7'he history of the major portion of the families mentioned 
above, and several others of distinction, is given further on, near 
the end of the chapter. 

There are a few old, but not very ornate tombstones in the 
graveyard, but not nearly so many as one might ill reason have 
expected to find in a God’s Acre of such antiquity. 

The mortal remains of a goodly number of notable persons are 
buried within the auld kirkyard o’ Bonhill, and of some of the 
number I proceed to give brief sketches, giving precedence to the 
memoir of 


ROBERT NAIRN, 

who was accounted worthy to suffer for righteousness’ sake during 
the persecution of the Covenanters. 

Dumbartonshire, during the period mentioned, was in no wise 
conspicuous for the stand its inhabitants made against the 
tyranny of the Government; but for all that there were excep¬ 
tions. Robert Nairn was one of them, and his name is honour¬ 
ably mentioned in the faithful narrative of Wodrow. 

The spiritually-minded hero of my tale, who was an industrious 
shoemaker in the village of Bonhill, frequently attended conven¬ 
ticles, and absented himself from the coldly formal services in the 
church of the parish, which led up to a warrant being issued at 
Dumbarton for his apprehension. He long escaped the snares of 
his pursuers by concealment in the recesses of Napierston wood, 


BONIIILL. 


137 


where he laboured in his calling, receiving secretly supplies of 
food and material, by the hands of members of his family, to 
enable him to carry on his work. Betimes he was also visited in 
the place of his concealment by friends who held similar views 
with himself on civil and religious matters, and with these he 
prayed and held sweet converse. Of times the persecuted saint 
passed nights and days, even in the most inclement season, with 
no other shelter than was afforded by the trees of the forest, or a 
crevice in the bosom of the rocks. 

After the death of Charles II., a stricter search was instituted 
for the Covenanters who were in hiding from the minions of the 
law; and although the searchers did not succeed in capturing 
Robert Nairn, yet they beseiged his hiding place so closely that 
they prevented or intercepted his customary supplies, and forced 
him to permanently remain exposed to the inclemency of the 
weather, with the result that his health became so much impaired 
that he died almost immediately on his removal to his usual dwell¬ 
ing place, within less than two months after the accession of 
James II.—a persecutor even more relentless than his infamous 
brother. 

The death of the godly shoemaker was deeply lamented—of 
which fact strong proof was given at his funeral. The domineer¬ 
ing faction’s representatives prohibited the mourners from burying 
the dead man in the tomb of his fathers, but popular indignation 
was inflamed so fiercely by the dastardly attempt of M‘Kechnie, 
the incumbent of the parish, and his unscrupulous tools, that they 
were made to flee from the wrath of the villagers like chaff before 
the wind ; and then the departed saint’s mortal remains were laid 
reverently beside those of his forbears, in a spot nigh to the gate 
of the place of burial. 

The memory of the just is blessed : the perfume thereof long 
abideth as a sweet-smelling savour in the land. And so it faretli 
with him who is the theme of my tale. His name and fame are 

K 


138 BONHILL. 

embalmed in traditionary story, and are frequently the subject of 
reverential observation. Such potency there is in the remembrance 
of a noble, well spent life. A monument with a suitable inscrip¬ 
tion has been erected over the remains of the honest, faithful 
Covenanter, by a descendant who doubtless felt proud of his 
ancestor—and with good reason. The inscription on the stone 
runs thus :—“ To the memory of Robert Nairn, of Bonhill, who 
died 15th April, 1685, of illness occasioned by severe hardships 
and privations to which he was subjected for his steady adherence 
to the cause of truth and religious liberty ; and in token of respect 
for the piety, patience, and Christian fortitude for which he was 
distinguished in that period of peril and persecution, this stone 
is erected by Thomas Nairn, of Bankhead, in the year 1826. 

‘ Patriots have toiled, and in their country’s cause 
Bled nobly ; and their deeds, as they deserve, 

Receive good recompense ; 

But martyrs struggle for a brighter prize, 

And win ic with more pain and suffering, 

Yet few remember them.’ ” 

John Nairn of Dalvait, who is a lineal descendant of the perse¬ 
cuted saint, Robert Nairn, possesses two highly interesting relics 
of his illustrious forbear, namely, his “ Word of God,” a “ breeches 
Bible,” published in Holland of date 1604, and a pocket book 
made by him for his son. 

Robert Nairn’s descendants for the greater part of last century 
were tenants of the farm of Millburn, and also of its grain mill, 
both of which are now occupied by Mr Turnbull. The mill has, 
however, been converted into a chemical work, and greatly 
enlarged. 

o 

Mr John Nairn has in his possession some of the old farm 
leases, which are curious and interesting reading. Among other 
things, they show that at the period referred to the rent was in 
great part paid in kind—namely, with grain, &c, During the 


BONITILL. 


139 


time the Nairns were tenants of Millburn, the principal residence 
of their landlords, the Smolletts of Bonhill, was at the Place of 
Bonhill—and the Turnbulls are also tenants of this mansion 

house. 

The next occupant of a lowly bed in the God’s Acre of Bonhill 
of whose life I pen a few sentences is the 

REV. WILLIAM GREGOR. 

Of this eccentric divine I said a good deal in one of my former 
works. I will here only state regarding him that the relics of the 
deceased minister lie under a table stone within an enclosure near 
the centre of the south boundary wall of the kirkyard. He was 
born 1769, ordained minister of the parish of Bonhill 1809, and 
died 1848, aged 80. A few years ago a neat little volume was 
issued from the press entitled “Disruption Memories,” the author 
being Mr James Barr, a native of the Yale of Leven. In that 
volume there is a deal of very interesting matter about “ Auld 
Gregor,” which those interested in the queer auld carle would do 
well to peruse. The Rev. Mr Gregor was a fair specimen of the 
ministers called “ moderate ” in pre-Disruption times. Pie was 
possessed of good, if not transcendant abilities. He was witty 
and shrewd. He did not fear what the Mrs Grundies of his age 
might say regarding him. Many of his queer sayings and doings 
are yet the delight of the older parishioners. 

ROBERT BLAIR, FARMER, ARDOCII-IIILL AND WOODNEUK. 

In the ground to the front of the Church there is an upright 
freestone monument of about seven or eight feet in height, 
erected by the above Robert Blair, on which there is inscribed 
the name of himself, his wife, and several members of his family. 
Robert Blair—eldest son of Robert Blair, farmer, Ardoch-hill, 
Dumbarton, and Ann Brock, his wife—was born in 1799, and 
succeeded his father in the tenancy of the farm on his marriage 


140 


BONHILL. 


in 1824. The then laird was Lord Stonefield of Levenside. The 
elder Blair was a life tenant of the farm, but removed to Mary¬ 
land on the marriage of his son. At that period there were a 
large number of small farmers and cottars located in this part of 
the parish. There were thirteen decent, well-doing families came 
from Dumbarton Muir, above the Maryland farm, to the Parish 
Church of Dumbarton on a Sunday. These have left no successors 
save one. The land they tilled has reverted to a state of nature, 
and the smoke of a dozen hearths is quenched. 

Sixty years ago, in that district, the illicit distillation and 
smuggling of whiskey was in full swing, and many lively scenes 
were witnessed when the gaugers from Dumbarton swooped down 
upon the bothies to harry and destroy. The cottars and farmers 
were, as a rule, on good terms with the free trade distillers, and 
the farmers and cottars never lacked a well-filled bottle of the 
“dew of the mountain,” for the delectation of themselves and 
friends. After Robert Blair the younger had held in succession 
the occupancy of the farms of Ardoch-hill and Woodneuk, he re¬ 
tired from farming about the year 1840, and went to live in a 
cottage he had built at the south end of Bonhill, removing shortly 
thereafter to Dumbarton, where he remained untill his death in 
1876. He, by his wife, Janet Wood, had born unto him six sons 
and seven daughters, of whom survive three sons—Hon. Sheriff- 
Substitute Bailie Robert Blair, Andrew Blair, draper, and John 
Blair, grocer, all of Dumbarton—and three daughters—Elizabeth 
(Mrs M‘Intyre, Kippen), Ann (Mrs M‘Cabe, Jersey), and 
Agnes (Mrs Black, Glasgow.) Robert Blair second, who has been 
the principal theme of my story, was a good type of a genuine 
Scot of the old school. He was shrewd, ready witted, full of 
proverbial wisdom and old saws, very fond of a crack, and had a 
wonderfully retentive memory, which made him quite an authority 
on local matters relating to the past. He was highly esteemed by 
all classes of society. 


BONHtLL. 


141 


Dll ALEXANDER LECKIE. 

This at one time influential and much beloved man in the Yale 
of Leven was born at Oampsie about the year 1806. He matri¬ 
culated in Glasgow University, and began the practice of his profes¬ 
sion in Bonhill, in the year 1827. He was an eminently successful 
surgeon and physician, and enjoyed the entire confidence of his 
numerous patients. The doctor did notable service during the 
visitations of cholera to the Yale. 

In 1829, he was one of the originators of the first Yale of 
Leven Temperance Society, the second of its kind in Scotland, 
and was chairman thereof, and continued to the end of his days 
to take a deep interest in its welfare. In brief, there was no 
movement of his time for the amelioration of the condition of the 
people of the Yale in which he did not take part. When the weight 
of years began to press heavily on him he retired from practice, 
and resided at Dunoon for a time. From thence he went to 
Glasgow to live, and in that city he died, and there he is buried, 
in Annfield Cemetery. His death took place in 1877. 

The doctor left behind him a wife, a son, and two daughters, 
the latter of whom alone survive, and they live in Helensburgh. 

In my wanderings in Bonhill kirkyard I observed at the back 
of the Church a tombstone erected to the memory of 

ROBERT SCOTT, 

who was in his time a well-known and notable man of the Yale 
of Leven. In early life he was a block printer, and latterly, a 
vintner in the village of Bonhill. He was born in 1822, and 
died in June, 1878. There were few Yale men of his period more 
highly esteemed than he, for public spirit and private worth. 

In the good old time, ere footballism had got such a hold of the 
people of Levenside, shinty-playing was in great vogue, and Mr 
Scott took a very active interest in that manly sport. He often 
led his team of Yale men on to victory. On one famous occasion, 


142 


BONHILL. 


thirty-six years ago, when the men of the Vale were challenged 
by the men of Luss to play shinty against them, for three hours 
at a stretch, in Rossdhu policies, Robert Scott was umpire for the 
one party, and the late Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., for the other. 

The result of the contest was that the dwellers on Leven’s 
banks were victors by ten ‘ c hails ” to none. Mr Scott’s men were 
under admirable discipline and full of enthusiasm, and they 
played to perfection. 

At the conclusion of the play Mr Scott went forward to where 
Sir James stood and asked him if he was thoroughly satisfied that 
his men were defeated fairly. Sir James answered that he was, 
and further said that lie had only one favour to ask at the hands 
of Mr Scott, and that was that he would come to Luss and learn 
the Luss men how to play shinty in as good style as the Vale 
team had done that day. 

When Robert Scott was removed from our midst he left a 
family of four sons and one daughter. 

I have now a few words to say relative to notable living men, 
giving precedence to the clergy. 

REV. WILLIAM SIMPSON, 

Minister of Bonhill, was born in 1842, at A.lyth, in the east of 
Perthshire ; educated at the Alytli Schools; was for four years 
engaged in business as a merchant at Blairgowrie. Went to 
Glasgow in 1861, to pursue a business career ; the following year 
left business to study for the ministry at Glasgow University, 
and became one of the parish missionaries under the late Rev. Dr. 
Norman MacLeod of the Barony. He also acted as amanuensis 
to his reverence, and prepared for the press many of the Dr.’s 
articles, speeches, stories, and sermons, which appeared during 
the last four years of his life. 

Licensed as a Preacher by the Glasgow Presbytery in Decem¬ 
ber, 1869, he acted successively as assistant minister at St. John’s 


B0N1IILL. 


1 43 


and Anderston Churches; and in April, 1871, was ordained 
minister at Auchterarder, in his native county. He was chair¬ 
man of the first Auchterarder School Board, and took a special 
interest in educational and parochial affairs. Leaving Auchterar¬ 
der, he was inducted minister of Bonhill, on 9th January, 1S78. 

He was appointed clerk to the Presbytery of Dumbarton, in 
succession to the Rev. Dr Shanks of Craigrownie, who died in 
March, 1887. 

The Rev Mr Simpson is a man of great energy and perseverance 
in the prosecution of his sacred calling. His ministry in the 
parish has been an entire success. He is equally fortunate in 
restoring the lost sheep to his flock, and lost tiends to his benefice. 
His knowledge of Church law is accurate and extensive, and he is 
considered an authority on that subject. 

REV'. T. COLLINS, 

Ministers to the spiritual wants of the members and adherents of 
the Free Church of the village of Bonhill, which of late has 
shewn in several ways that it is not to be numbered with the 
villages in the land which are finished. In passing through it 
recently, I was glad to see evidences to that effect. In approach¬ 
ing it from the south, an important row of high-class, two-storey 
workmen’s houses were passed, bearing the name of “ Dillichip 
Terrace,” the property of Sir Archd. Orr Ewing, Bart. These 
houses are models of substantiallity and tidiness, but I would 
that some little picturesqueness had been imparted to the 
structures, and that each had not been an exact repeat of the 
other. Further on, the Bonhill Institute, a fine commodious red 
sandstone building, the property of the Free Church congregation, 
met my eye, while the appearance of the adjacent many-gabled 
Free Church itself showed unmistakabls evidence of having been 
greatly enlarged and improved of recent date, and thereby brought 
abreast of the requirements made upon it. 


144 


BONHILL. 


Its pastor is a native of Glasgow. In liis early years he spent 
a period of time in the office of his brother, who owned the Elliot 
Street Engine works of that city. Afterwards, Mr Collins took 
a fancy to the Law, and entered a writer’s office. Matriculated 
in the old University of Glasgow in 1868, and in the Free Church 
College in 1872. Licensed by the Free Presbytery of Glasgow, 
1876. Called to a charge in Glasgow, and also to one in St. 
Andrews in the same year. 

Ordained to Bonhill, August, 1877. A few years afterwards, 
the place of worship was enlarged. En 1886, the congregation 
built the Bonhill Institute, alluded to above, for Sabbath school 
and evangelistic work, and also for social purposes ; it is seated 
for 500. In 1890, the enlargement of the Church just spoken of 
has resulted in between 300 and 400 sittings being added to its 
capacity. 

The people attached to the Church have effected all that not 
inconsiderable work without almost any outside help, and all the 
buildings are free of debt, which is highly creditable to their 
loyalty to the Church of their choice. 

REV. WILLIAM SMITH 

has the spiritual oversight of the United Presbyterians of the 
place. Their house of prayer has rather a LT.P.-ish look about 
it perched as it is on a steep eminence overlooking Bonhill Bridge, 
the northern portion of the village in which the church stands, 
and much of Alexandria. The building is of the severely plain, 
pavilion roofed, unattractive type, which was all too prevalent in 
the Kingdom sixty years ago, when it was erected. Before the 
amalgamation of the “ Relief” and “United Secession ” religious 
bodies, the church we are treating of belonged to the former sect. 

Since its origin it has been fairly successful. Its present min¬ 
ister was born near Cupar Fife, 2nd December, 1831. His early 
education was got at Letham and Monimail. When twenty years 


BONII ILL. 


145 


of age lie matriculated in St. Andrew’s University, and passed 
through the usual course of four sessions. Having then been ex¬ 
amined by the U.P. Presbytery of Cupar and certified to the 
Divinity Plall, he entered the same, and attended five sessions. 
He was afterwards licensed as a preacher of the gospel by the 
U.P. Presbytery of Edinburgh. 

Mr Smith was for a period engaged in teaching in St. Andrews 
and Edinburgh. In the December of 1862 he received a call from 
Bonhill, which he accepted, and was there ordained on 24th March, 
1863. His ministry has been in every respect an eminently suc¬ 
cessful one. 

Two eminent captains of industry now fall to be noticed 

SIR ARCHIBALD ORR EWING OF BALLIKINllAIN, M.P. FOR 

DUMBARTONSHIRE. 

Ill a work published by me a few years ago I gave a sketch of 
the extensive works of Archd. Orr Ewing <fc Coy., in the Yale of 
Leven, and also gave at same time a notice of the principal partner’s 
life history. That being the case, I will only touch very slightly 
here upon either of these themes. 

Sir Archibald is fifth son of the late William Ewing of Ardvullin, 
Dunoon. After a lengthened and prosperous career in the turkey 
red dying and calico printing line in the Yale of Leven, he in 1862 
purchased the estate of Ballikinrain, Stirlingshire, on which he re¬ 
sides in a spacious, picturesque, princely mansion, erected by him 
in the Scotch baronial style. He has sat continuously in the 
Commons House of Parliament as representative of Dumbarton¬ 
shire from 1868 to this date (1891). He was Lord Dean of Guild 
of Glasgow from 1863 to 1865. He was an active promoter of 
the new, magnificent pile of buildings on Gilmore Hill, Glasgow, 
in which are the quarters of the University of that city, and of 
its University Court Sir Archibald has been a member since 1869. 


146 


BONHILL. 


He is also a Deputy Lieutenant and Justice of the Peace for the 
counties of Dumbarton, Stirling, and Lanark. 

The subject of this brief memoir was born 4th June, 1819, and 
married Elizabeth Lindsay, only daughter of Janies Reid of Berri- 
dale and Caldercruiks, and has surviving issue live sons and one 
daughter. 

Sir Archibald has been and still is a captain of industry who 
takes a fatherly interest in his employees. He is also a munificent 
benefactor of the districts in which his works and his estates are 
situated. 

E. J. JONES, DALMONACH, 

Is one of the Yale of Leven’s widest known and best liked em¬ 
ployers of labour. He was born at Rhodes, near Manchester, in 
1831. His first start in business life was made in the calico 
printing works of Messrs Salis, Schwabe & Co., of Rhodes. 

In 1863 he became sub-manager of the Dalmonach printing 
works. In 1864 he became manager-in-chief. In 1866 he was 
assumed as a partner in the firm, which carries on business at 
Bonhill under the designation of James Black & Co. 

Mr Jones, in addition to discharging the onerous duties attached 
to his position as resident managing partner of the extensive 
works above named, finds time to efficiently perform several im¬ 
portant duties of a public nature. He is a member of the School 
Board, Chairman of the Parochial Board, a County Councillor, 
and a Justice of the Peace. 

Mr J ones has done much in the way of improving the sanitary 
state of the village by assisting heartily in the introduction, of 
recent date, of a copious supply of pure water from Lochlomond, 
and also in the way of making the drainage of the place more 
perfect than it was. But despite these improvements, and the 
erection in recent years of sundry good houses, both of a public and 
private nature, Bonhill in its general features is pretty much the 
same as it was fifty years age. 


EONHILL. 


147 


Having in the foregoing pages presented to you, my readers, a 
good deal of miscellaneous matter relating to men living and dead, 
and things past and present, which are or were connected with 
Bonliill in an intimate way, I now go on to give brief notices of 
several historic or notable families whose names are in an especial 
manner associated with the annals of the parish, the first of the 
number being 


THE EARLS AND DUKES OF LENNOX. 

One of the principal residences of that illustrious family, of 
which Her most gracious Majesty the Queen, Earl Harnley, and the 
Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Gordon, are the modern repre¬ 
sentatives, was at Balloch Castle, in the parish of Bonhill, and it 
therefore falls within the scope of this work to give a rapid sketch 
of their history. 

The ancient earldom of Lennox comprehended the original 
sheriffdom of Dumbarton, consisting of the whole of the modern 
county, and a large portion of Stirlingshire, with part of the 
counties of Perth and Renfrew. The first Earl of Lennox of his 
race was Alwyn, who flourished towards the end of the twelfth 
century. The second Alwyn, son of above, was in full possession 
of the title and estates in 1199. His eldest son, Maldonin, third 
Earl of Lennox, was one of the guarantees on the part of 
Alexander II. when the differences between that monarch and 
Henry III. were adjusted, in 1237. Up to this time the import¬ 
ant, strong Castle of Dumbarton had been the principal messuage 
of the Earls of Lennox, but after 1238, when a new charter was 
granted of the earldom, the Castle, and the harbour, territory, and 
fisheries of Murrach, contiguous to it, were excluded from the 
deed. The Castle since that time has continued to be a royal fort, 
and the other subjects spoken of were bestowed on the Royal 
Burgli of Dumbarton. Earl Maldonin had a son, Malcolm, who 
predeceased him in 1248, leaving a son, Malcolm, fourth earl, a 


148 


BONHILL. 


distinguished man. He died before 1292. His son Malcolm, fifth 
earl, in 129G, with other Scottish leaders, invaded Cumberland 
and assaulted Carlisle. In the same year he swore a forced fealty 
to Edward I. ; but in 1306 he was one of the first to place him¬ 
self under the leadership of Robert the Bruce, and ever after 
continued one of his most trusty and valiant followers. He was 
slain at Halidon Hill, 19th July, 1333. His son Donald, sixth 
earl, was one of the nobles who, in 1357, became bound for the 
payment of the ransom of King David II. On 16th March, 1371, 
the Earl was present at the coronation of Robert II. at Scone, 
and on the following day swore homage and fealty to him. He 
died the same year, and, having no male issue, the direct line 
ceased with him. The earldom then devolved on his only 
daughter, Margaret, who married her cousin and nearest male heir 
of the family, higlit Walter, son of Allan de Fasselane, who in his * 
wife’s right became seventh Earl of Lennox. Their son Duncan 
became Earl of Lennox during his father’s lifetime, his mother 
and father having made a resignation of the dignity in his favour. 

Duncan, the eighth earl, had no male issue, and was left a 
widower with three daughters—Isabella, the eldest of whom, in 
1391, married Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Regent of Scotland 
1419-1425. His second daughter, Margaret, married Sir Robert 
Menteith of Rusky; and his other daughter, Elizabeth, became 
the wife of Sir John Stewart of Dernely. 

His being father-in-law to the regent of the kingdom made 
Earl Duncan, for a time, one of the most potent noblemen of the 
realm ; but that proud position proved in the end fatal to him. 
On the return of King James I. from his long captivity in Eng¬ 
land, the earl fell a victim to that monarch’s rage against all 
persons connected with his uncle Albany. Earl Duncan was 
beheaded at Stirling, with his son-in-law, Duke Murdoch, and his 
grandson, Sir Alexander Stewart, on 25th May, 1425, the earl 
being then about eighty years of age. His estates were not 






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149 


BONHILL. 

forfeited, but remained in possession of his eldest daughter, the 
widowed Duchess Isabella, whose eldest surviving son, Walter, was 
beheaded at Stirling the day before his father and grandfather 
met the same fate. Duchess Isabella was for a time confined in 
Tantallan Castle, East Lothian ; but after she got her freedom 
from thence she spent the remainder of her life at Inchmurrin, 
the then family residence on Lochlomond. In 1450 she founded 
the Collegiate Church of Dumbarton, and gifted it with various 
lands in the earldom. She died before 1460. 

After the Reformation, the Collegiate Church of St. Mary was 
allowed to get into a ruinous state, and become a convenient 
quarry whence material was obtained for mending roads and 
building dykes, walls, bridges, and dwelling houses. The only 
important portion of the sacred edefice which is still to the fore 
is one of its pier arches, and it has been removed from its original 
position overlooking the broad meadow to Church Street, where 
it forms the entrance to the parsonage of St. Augustine’s Episcopal 
Church ; but the “ College bow ” still remains the property of the 
Town Council. Other fragments of the goodly edefice are built 
into several buildings in the town. For instance there is quite a 
number of such incorporated with the erstwhile town house of 
the MacKenzies of Caldarvan / in High Street, now the property 
of Mr William Henderson. Beginning at the top, it may be said 
that the picturesque dormer windows of the building are evidently 
spoil from the Collegiate Church. Over the one to the left, as a 
finial, there is a somewhat grotesque figure of a diminutive man 
or boy in sitting posture, having a round fiat bonnet on his head. 
Over the central window, which is by far the most imposing of 
the number, there is a latin cross crowned by a mitre, on one 
side of which there is a Scotch thistle, and on the other side a 
fleur de lys, all admirably sculptured. Beneath is this inscription : 

Tu Des, 

Corona Decus; 


150 


BONIIILL. 


which may be translated—Do thou give me glory for a crown. 
Suggesting to the thoughtful reader the well-known phrase—No 
cross, no crown. 

On the same dormer window there appear engraven the dates 
1790 and 1732, one or other, or both, representing, most probably, 
the period or periods when the material alluded to was utilised 
for secular purposes. The building to which it is such a great 
adornment was originally a two-storey one, but it was unroofed 
fifty-eight years after it was built, and another storey and attics 
added to it in 1790. 

The eastmost of the dormer windows has for finial a small 
globular shapen stone, which looks as if it had formed the apex 
of a pinnacle in the “ auld Colledge.” 

In a line with the second storey of the building there is to be 
seen in good preservation, embodied in the east wall at its junction 
with the neighbouring property of “ Walker’s Close,” a piscina, 
in which the sacred vessels of the sanctuary of St. Mary were 
washed, after being used in the commemoration of our Lord’s 
death. 

Further appropriations from the venerable kirk of Our Lady may 
be seen in High Street, over the Quay Pend, which pierces a tall 
building of date 1623, once the property and residence of the Earls 
of Glencairn. The filchings alluded to are in the shape of two 
projecting corbeil stones built in over the centre of the arch. The 
lower one exhibits, as you look straight up at it from beneath, a 
grotesque man’s head with winglike appendages; and the upper 
stone has the appearance of having formed the capital of a pillar 
from whence had sprung an arch. 

In addition to the above relics of the “ auld Colled ge,” there is 
apparently another from the same quarry built into the house 
which is situate at the east junction of College Street with High 
Street. The relic alluded to is a man’s life size face, having 1 
eyes closed as if in death or sleep. This completes the list of all 


BONHILL. 


151 


the antique stones of the burgh with which I am familiar, which 
can, with any shew of reason, be associated with the goodly ecclesi¬ 
astical edifice reared to the honour and glory of God by the pious 
Duchess of Albany. 

In the preparation of the above I have been indebted to my 
good friends Rev. W. Stephen and Rector A. T. Watson of Dum¬ 
barton, and Mr Charles W. Pearce, of Liverpool, for assistance. 

After Duchess Isabella’s decease, the partition of the Lennox 
took place. Her sister Margaret’s son, Sir Robert Menteith, had 
a son Patrick, who died before 1455, and his two sisters, Agnes 
and Elizabeth, became his co-heiresses in the half of the lands of 
the earldom, as well as in the extensive lands of Menteith. Agnes 
married Sir John Haldane of Gleneagles, and the Mill of Haldane 
still keep his memory green. Elizabeth married John Napier of 
Merchiston, and we still have Napierston in the parish. 

Elizabeth of Lennox, youngest sister of Duchess Isabel, and 
wife of Sir John Stewart of Derneley, had a son, Sir Alan (who 
was slain by Sir Thomas Boyd of Kilmarnock), and his eldest son 
was the celebrated Sir John Stewart, created Lord Derneley in 
1460 or 1461, who was served heir to his great grandfather, Earl 
Duncan, in 1473, in the half of the earldom of Lennox, and in its 
principal messuage ; and he became for a time titular Earl of 
Lennox. 

In 1475, Sir John Haldane, who had been abroad, returned to 
Scotland, and sot the service in favour of Sir John Stewart 
reduced ; but in 1488 Lord Derneley again assumed the title of 
Earl of Lennox, on the death of James III. 

Matthew, the eldest son, second Earl of Lennox of the Stewart 
name, succeeded his father in 1494. Earl Matthew led the Lennox 
men to the fatal field of Flodden, where he was slain. John, his 
son and successor, acted a prominent part during the turbulent 
minority of James V. He was wounded in a battle at Linlithgow, 
4th September, 1526, and afterwards slain in cold blood whil§ 


152 


BONIIILL. 


being taken to a place of safety—and thus fell “ the wisest, the 
best, the bravest man in Scotland of his day.” The earls who 
succeeded were men of mark, and acted no unimportant part in 
the making of the history of their country. Lord Darnley, eldest 
son to Matthew, Earl Lennox, having married Mary, Queen of 
Scots, on their son, James VI., the earldom by right of blood 
devolved, as heir to his grandfather. The King, in 1572, granted 
to his uncle Charles the whole of the family estates and jurisdic¬ 
tions. In 1581, Esme Stuart, seventh Earl, was created Duke of 
Lennox. On the demise, in 1672, of Charles, sixth Duke of 
Lennox and fourth of Richmond, without issue, Charles II., as 
nearest collateral heir male, entered into possession of the estates, 
which, with the titles of Duke of Richmond and Lennox, he con¬ 
ferred on his base son, Charles, by the Duchess of Portsmouth. In 
1702, the duke sold the whole of his property in the Lennox. 

LINDSAYS OF BONIIILL. 

This at one time notable family was of long standing in the 
district. Malcolm, fifth Earl of Lennox, early in the fourteenth 
century granted to Patrick de Lindsay, son of Hugh de Lindsay, 
the lands of Bonhill, which marched with Tillichewan, creating 
him at the same time hereditary bailie and forester of the Lennox 
estate. Donald, the sixth earl, in confirming his father’s grant to 
the son of Patrick Lindsav, goes on to describe the estate as 
“ The whole land of Bonhill or Leven, lying between the rivulet 
known as Poachy Burn and the Blindsyke, on the north side of 
Carman, and descending to the Halyburn, and from the latter to 
the old Causey, which lies beyond the Moss, and descending thence 
to the water of Leven.” In after years the lands of Bonhill are 
described as “ The eight pound lands of Bonhill-Lindsay, the fifty 
shilling lands of Bonliill-Noble, and the ten merks land of Bonhill- 
Napier,” portions of the estate having fallen then into the hands 
of the Nobles of Ardardan and Napiers of Kilmaliew, 


BONIIILL. 


153 


The Lindsay family possessed their lands till 1684, when they 
fell by purchase into the possession of James Smollett of 
Stainflett. Into his hands the evidents of the family also 
went. These have not been w r ell preserved. The earliest 
of the number is of date 1512, being a charter by Matthew, 
Earl of Lennox, of the twelve merk land of Bullul-Lindsay, 
with the office of “ Marofeodous ” of the Earldom of Lennox, 
to William Lindsay. In 1541, Kentigern Lindsay was in pos¬ 
session, then in succession John about 1574, Quentin in 1595, 
and another Quentin in 1641, who had an only daughter upon 
whom he settled the estate, upon condition that she married a 
gentleman bearing the name and arms of Lindsay, which she conf- 
plied with by marrying William, Lindsay eldest son of the laird 
of Wauchope ; but, their affairs getting into a ravelled state, they 
were obliged to part with the estate as noticed above. 

SMOLLETTS OF BONIIILL. 

Of this ancient house I had a good deal to say in a former work 
of mine entitled “ Dumbarton. Vale of Leven, and Lochlomond,” 
but I have so written this notice of the family that it will be in 
some measure supplementary to the one alluded to. 

The estates of this honourable family lie in the parishes of 
Cardross and Bonhill, the latter of which stretches northward 
from Dumbarton, up the west side of the river Leven, and also a 
few miles up west Lochlomond-side ; and on this latter portion 
Cameron House, the family seat, stands. 

At wdiat exact period the family achieved a leading position in 
society is not certain, but it is certain that they had done so about 
five centuries ago, as can be proved by records in connection with 
the Boval Burgh of Dumbarton still extant. At that far-back 
period they were merchants and shipowners in the county town. 
In subsequent times members of the family held therein the posts 
of Provosts and Bailies of the Burgh—furthering its interests, and 


154 


BONHILL. 

evidently attending to their own ; and within its precincts they 
held several heritable subjects, and had their dwelling-place. They 
also, in course of time, acquired landed property in its near vicin¬ 
age. Silvertonhill, Corslet, and Roundredding owned them as 
lords, as did also Over Kirkton, Clerkhill, Kilmahew, Auchensail, 
Drumsiddoch, Walton, &c., all in the neighbouring parish of 
Cardross. They also owned several acres in Argyll and Renfrew 
shires. Almost all the foregoing lands have been parted with one 
after another, until their estate is confined to the borders of Leven 
and Lochlomond ; but it is an exceedingly valuable one. 

John Smollett, from whom can be traced distinctly the house of 
Bonhill, was admitted a burgess of Dumbarton in 1638. In 1666 
he purchased Pillanflat and Rosruvan from William Lindsay of 
Bonhill. He died in 1680, leaving an only son, James, born in 
1648, who became the first Smollett of Bonhill. He purchased 
that estate from William and Anne Lindsay in 1684, and the 
Dalquhurn property from Charles Fleming in 1692, all of which 
lands are still in the possession of the family. In 1690 he was 
made Judge of the Commissary Court, Edinburgh. In 1715 he 
was created a deputy-lieutenant of the county of Dumbarton, and 
was knighted by King William III. In 1707 Sir James was ap¬ 
pointed one of the Commissioners for framing the Articles of 
Union with England. He was the first member who represented 
the Dumbarton district of burghs in the British Parliament. He 
married Jane, daughter of Macaulay of Ardencaple, and by her 
had several sons and daughters. One of the number, Archibald, 
became father of the eminent Tobias Smollett, and also of Jean 
Smollett, who married Alexander Telfer of Symington. This 
lady, upon succeeding to the family estates on the death of her 
cousin-german, Commissary Smollett, once more resumed her 
maiden name. Her son and successor, Alexander Telfer-Smollett 
of Bonhill, married Cecilia, daughter of John Renton of Lamber- 
ton, Berwickshire, and had issue one daughter, and four sons—• 


BONHILL. 


1 Pf ** 

155 

1, Alexander, Lieut.-Colonel Coldstream Guards, and M.P. for 
Dumbartonshire, killed at the battle of Aikmaar in 1799 ; 2, John 
Rouet, a naval officer, who succeeded to the estate ; 3, Tobias 
George, Captain 78th Regiment, Ross-shire Highlanders; 4, James, 
accidentally killed at sea. The second son, Rear Admiral John 
Rouet Smollett, to whom the succession to the estate opened up, 
married, first, Louisa, daughter of William Rouet of Auclien- 
dennan, Lochlomondside, and by her had an only daughter, 
Louisa, who died in infancy. In 1800 he married Elizabeth, 
second daughter of the Hon. Patrick Boyle of Shewalton, Ayr¬ 
shire, second son of the second Earl of Glasgow, having issue five 
daughters and two sons—Alexander, and Patrick Boyle. In 1842 
the former became laird on the demise of his father. From 1S41 
to 1859 he represented the county of Dumbarton in the House of 
Commons, and was for many years Convener of the County. He 
died on 25th February, 1881. His brother, Patrick Boyle 
Smollett, has inherited the estates, and he and his sister Cecilia 
are the sole survivors of the family. P. B. Smollett for many 
years held an exalted post in the East India Company’s civil 
service, and was for a time M.P. for and Convener of the county 
of Dumbarton. 

The ancient mansion house of the Smolletts, incidentally men¬ 
tioned in a foregoing page, which was situated on the south side 
of High Street, Dumbarton, I well recollect. Sixty years ago 
I knew it as a semi-ruinous building, which, after Sheriff Gray 
(long deceased) had removed from it, had been converted into two 
small shops and several humble dwellings, and had therefore 
fallen from its former high estate. The corbie-stepped gable 
of the house fronted the street, and was three storeys in height. 
About half a century ago the top of it, which had been for several 
years off the plumb, toppled over and fell upon the foot of a woman 
named Cameron, and crushed it so badly that it had to be ampu 
tated either in whole or in part. 


156 


BONHILL. 


The house was rebuilt in 1844 by the late laird of Bonhill, and 
some years thereafter sold by him to my deceased old friend, Bailie 
M‘Lean, and is now the property of his son-in-law and erstwhile 
partner, Archibald Fraser Garvie, Esq., Captain, 1st B. &D.A.V., 
and treasurer of the Royal Burgh of Dumbarton, whom I am also 
proud to call friend. 

The paucity of remains of the dwelling-places of the more opu¬ 
lent of the burgesses of Dumbarton to be found within its bounds 
has often been a cause of wonderment to myself and others. I 
recently found one or two relics of the domicile built by Margaret 
Smollett, daughter of James Smollett of Over Kirkton, wife of 
James Bontine of Succoth, who succeeded, about the middle of 
the seventeenth century, to the heritable property of the family in 
Kirkton, Clerkhill, and in the burgh of Dumbarton. She evidently, 
in 1661, rebuilt the family dwelling-place in the burgh, according to 
the date carved on an old stone built into the back wall over the 
close of Treasurer Garvie’s property. Her initials, M.S., are 
engraven on another stone within a heart-shaped design in another 
part of the subjects. Yet another stone, away some distance from 
the others, and possibly the most interesting of the number, is 
built into the back wall of the front property, to the west It has 
formed the outer lintel of the ancient hall door, and on it is carved 
in clear and distinct characters, within a moulding of good design, 

INEUNTIBUS, SALUS, SALUS, EXEUNTIBUS. 

The inscription may be translated—“Welcome the coming, speed 
the parting guest.” Thus did these ancients in courtly fashion 
greet their visitors. 

THE ROUETS OF AUCHENDENNAN-RIIIE. 

There are three Auchendennans in the Bonhill lands. These 
are, in the words of an old rhyme, 


BONHILL. 


157 


‘ ‘ Auchindennan-Dennistoun, 

Auchindennan-Rhie, 

Auchindennan Lindsay, 

The best o’ a’ the three.” 

The superiority of Auchindennan-Rhie, or King’s Auchindennan, 
was acquired at an early date by the burgh of Dumbarton. It 
was most probably gifted to the authorities of that historic town 
for the support or upkeep of one or other of the religious estab¬ 
lishments of the place. Sir Thomas Watson, chaplain of the 
rood-altar in Dumbarton in the early part of the sixteenth century, 
feued Auchendennan-Rhie to Andrew Dennistoun of the Ferry- 
lands of Cardross, in whose family it remained till 1 609, when they 
sold the lands to Robert Napier of Blackyards. In 1620 his son 
sold them to John Napier of Kilmahew, whose descendants family 
held them for about a century, when they were alienated by George 
Maxwell Napier to Peter Napier of Napierston, from whom, in 
1718, the property was acquired by a younger son of Nicol 
Routine of Ardoch, Cardross. Auchendennan-Rhie was subse¬ 
quently purchased by William Rouet, and either he or one of his 
successors, in questionable taste, called the mansion house of the 
estate Belretiro. 

Where the Rouets came from, when they settled on Lochlomond* 
side, deponent knoweth not; but it consists with his knowledge 
to say that they at the beginning of last century owned the lands 
of Little Botturich and Nockour, on Lochlomond’s south-eastern 
margin. 

So that my readers may glean some little information regarding 
this at one time territorially important family, I give the following 
transcriptions from the tablets in their place of sepulture, in 
chronological order:— 

M. S. 

Melvill Whyte, armigeri optimase spei juvenis qni veram spiraus 
gloriam invidiam fefellit, obiit 1779,—AIT 21. Rouet. 


158 


BONHILL. 


Translation. — A youth of warfare of the highest hope, who, breathing 
true glory, despised envy. Died 1779, aged 21. 

“Erected to the memory of William Roitet, Esq., of Auchendennan, 
who died iv. June, mdcclxxxv., by his affectionate widow, Louisa Whyte, 
whose greatest consolation is to remember his affection and his virtues ; her 
greatest ambition to imprint them on the hearts of their children. 

Here also are deposited the remains of Louisa Wiiyte Rouet, who, after 
having survived her husband and her children, and seen her whole hopes of 
earthly happiness extinguished, exhibited for many years a bright example 
of pious resignation ; and on the 20th day of March, 1813, yielded up her 
spirit to God, in the humble hope of being again united to the objects of 
her tenderest affections, and her unceasing remembrance.” 

“Sacred to to the memory of Agnes Muir Rouet, daughter of the late 
William Rouet, Esq., of Auchindennan, and of Louisa Whyte, his spouse; 
erected byan afflicted mother who, in lamenting a beloved daughter, mourns also 
for a companion and a friend, cut off at the age of nineteen. She left a 
bright example of filial duty, of early piety, and of sweet resignation. She 
died 21st December, 1795.” 

“ Sacred to the memory of Louisa Rouet of Auchendennan, thebeloved 
wife of John Smollett Rouet, Esq., the last of her family : who, by grief for 
the loss of a lovely only child, while she yet deeply mourned for that of a 
beloved and only sister, afflictions under which she bowed with pious 
resignation, was torn, at the early age of twenty-two years, and in the 
bloom of her virtues, from an affectionate husband, and from a widowed 
mother who now mourns the last enduring tie of this life, but under the 
humble and consolatory hope of joining her family in the realms of bliss, to 
part no more. 

Near the mother, who died May 23rd, 1797, lies her infant daughter, 
Louisa Smollett Rouet, who died Novr. 12th, 1796, aged xxiii. months. 

Erected by her afflicted husband.” 

“ Sacred to the memory of the Rev. Francis Rainey Rouet of Auchin¬ 
dennan, who died March 7th, 1814, aged thirty-eight years. Deeply 
regretted by his relations and friends. With a pure and fervent devotion 
and integrity of mind, embellished with high attainments in literature and 
science, and enriched with every gentle virtue, he peculiarly displayed an 
unalterable affection to a beloved mother and sister, who would indeed 
feel his loss insupportable, had they not the high rewards which await his 


B0N1IILL. 


159 


piety, the richest and the most grateful consolation for the affliction under 
which they mourn.” 

“This tablet is erected by Miss Mary Rainey Rouet of Bel-Retiro, to 
the memory of her beloved mother, Mrs Elizabeth Sarah Rainey Rouet, 
relict of Daniel Rainey, Esq. of Damully, Co. Down, Ireland. She died at 
Bel-Retiro, 23rd March, 1834, terminating a long existence of 82 years, 
loved and respected by all who knew her, and in humble confidence of a 
happy resurrection, thro’ the redeeming merits of her Saviour, Jesus 
Christ. 

Near this place are deposited the remains of her affectionate daughter, 
and last surviving child, Miss Mary Rainey Rouet of Bel-Ritiro, who 
was hastily summoned from time to eternity, the 6th day of May, 1841. 

‘ In the ’midst of life we are in death.’ ” 

Shortly after Miss Rouet’s decease, the family property cf 
Auchindennan or Bel-Retiro, came into the hands of Colonel 
Mure of Caldwell, and from him it was purchased by the late 
William Colquhoun, Rossdhu, who, after holding it for a short 
period of time, sold it to the departed William Campbell of 
Tullichewan, who in turn disposed of it to the late George Martin, 
whose family is still in possession of the small but valuable 
estate. 


BUCHANANS AND FINDLAYS OF B0TUBICH. 

John Buchanan of Ardocli, the great grandfather of the present 
laird of Boturich, bought the lands of Little Boturich and 
Knockour (then Nokour) about the beginning of this century, 
from Mr Rainey Rouet of Auchendennan (then called Belretiro). 

In 1811, he bought the Castle and Place of Boturich from 
Haldane of Gleneagles, to which family a fourth of the vast 
estates of the earldom of Lennox went in the fifteenth century. 
Another fourth went to the Napiers of Merchiston, and the re¬ 
maining half became the property of Sir John Stewart of Darnley, 
to whom also w r ent the title. 


100 


BONIIILL. 


In 1808, John Buchanan had Balloch Castle built on the 
Balloch Estate, which was then his property. In 1830 he left 
Balloch and took up his residence at Levenside House (then 
owned by Campbell of Stonefield). In 1834, he began to build 
the House of Boturich on the walls of the old Castle. Tho laird 
of Ardocli died in 1839, and in 1843 his executors sold the Castle 
and Estate of Boturich to Mr Robert Findlay (Uncle of Mr It. 
E. Findlay), the eldest son of Mr Robert Findlay of Easterhill, 
and Mary Buchanan, daughter of Mr John Buchanan of Ardocli. 
Mr Robert Findlay died in 1850. and left Boturich to his father. 

The present castle, although entirely built in 1834 (with the 
exception of some small additions), was little occupied until 1856, 
after which Mr R. E. Findlay’s grandfather lived in it until 
1862, when he died. He was succeeded in the estate by his eldest 
surviving son, John Findlay, then Major, afterwards Colonel in the 
Highland Borderers’ Militia, and Colonel of the Dumbartonshire 
Volunteers. He was a handsome, soldierly-looking man of fine social 
qualities. Colonel Findlay, in 1872, sold the estate to his 
brother, Charles Bannatyne Findlay, father of the present laird. 
The Colonel died in 1887, and Charles, his brother, deceased in 
1877, when Mr R. E. Findlay succeeded to the property. His 
mother, however, has continued to occupy the castle since the 
demise of her husband. That lady was third daughter of Colonel 
Elmsall of Woodlands, Yorkshire, her maiden name being 
Georgiana de Cardonnel. 

The family of Findlay is of Ayrshire origin, but is also closely 
connected by descent on both the male and female sides with 
many old Dumbartonshire families, such as the Buchanans of 
that ilk, Lady Lilias' Graham, sister of the great Marquis of 
Montrose, and through her with the Colquhouns of Luss, and 
Napiers of Kilmahew. There are also descents from the Napiers 
of Merchiston, Haldanes of Gleneagles, and the Darnley Stewarts* 


B0N1IILL. 161 

Robert Elmsall Findlay, now laird of Boturich, was born in 
one of the Philippine Islands, 25th April, 1855. 

Received his education at Harrow and Baliol College, Oxford. 
B.A., 1877 ; M.A., 1881. Married Jane Cecilia Louise, third 
daughter of James Scott, Woodside Place, Glasgow, 10th August, 
1882, and has issue—Charles Bannatyne, born 18th October, 
1883 ; Jane Cecilia Hope, born 9th November, 1885 ; Robert 
Scott, born 17th April, 1887, and George de Cardonnel Elmsall, 
born 20th August, 1889. 

Mr Findlay is an East India Merchant, having his firms head 
office in Glasgow, and branches in Manila and Japan. 

He is a J.P. for the County of Dumbarton, in the affairs of 
which he takes a warm interest. 

A. J. DENNISTOUN-BROWN OP BALLOCII CASTLE. 

About the beginning of the present century the lands of 
Balloch, along with sundry contiguous portions of the barony of 
Haldane, were purchased from the Gleneagles family by John 
Buchanan of Ardoch, who erected on his newly acquired property 
an imposing castellated mansion on a commanding site overlook¬ 
ing Lochlomond. In 1830 the estate and castle of Balloch passed 
into the hands of Gibson Stott, who improved them very much. 
About 1845, the property again changed owners, and came into 
the possession of A. J. Dennistoun-Brown, J. P., only son of Major 
James Dennistoun-Brown, Madras Artillery. The laird of Balloch 
has recently deceased (1890), leaving a widow and four daughters, 
who still occupy the castle. 

The modern castle overlooks the site of the ancient one in which 
the Earls of Lennox of old time held high festival, and entertained 
kings and mighty nobles. The old castle of Balloch reared its 
proud form from off a knoll near the edge of the loch, and was 
protected by a fosse. Early in the sixteenth century it was de¬ 
serted by the family, who then took up their abode on the island 


162 


BONHILL. 


of Tnchmurrin, it being a place of greater security, and described 
in deeds of that date as “ the chief messuage of the earldom.” 

ALSTONS AND KIPPENS OF WESTERTON AND BALLAGAN. 

I have been unable to ascertain the elate when the late John 
Alston, Esq., of Westerton, became possessed of that estate, or 
whether he got it by heirship or purchase ; but this I know* for 
certain, that he acquired the lands of Ballagan on 1st July, 1790. 

On February 18th, 1840, Mr AlstoiTs grandson, John James 
Lyon Alston, then residing at Lubec, completed a title to this 
property by precept of Clare Constat from Sir James Colquhoun. 
Ballagan estate afterwards became the property of Mrs Marianne 
Alston or Kippen (wife of William Kippen of Busby), who died 
Jan. 22nd, 1853, aged 73. On her death, her second son, James 
Hill Kippen, succeeded to the property. When he died on Oct. 
9, 1886, aged 66, his son, William James Kippen, Esq., advocate, 
Edinburgh, entered into possession of the estates, and still holds 
them. 


EWINGS OF STRATIILEVEN. 

This family, in regard to its Dumbartonshire connection, was 
founded by James Ewing, LL.D., one of the merchant princes of 
Glasgow. He was bom at Glasgow on 5th December, 1775,. 
being second son of Walter Ewing, Esq., a landed proprietor and 
West India merchant. His mother was a daughter of the Bev. 
James Fisher, one of the founders of the Secession Church. James 
Ewing was educated at the High School of his native city, and 
achieved as a pupil great distinction.' In 1816, he was appointed 
convener of the committee which had charge of this institution. 
In 1822 he invested a sum of money, one half of the annual 
interest of which was to be spent in purchasing a silver medal 
for the student in the school who produced the best exemplifica¬ 
tion of the Greek verb. The other portion was to be spent in the 
purchase of books to form a library for the use of scholars. 


BONIIILL. 


163 


When the elder Mr Ewing died in 1814, his son James was thirty- 
nine years of age, and a partner of his father’s firm, but had up to 
that date held no public oflicial position. However, on 10th 
October, 1815, he was elected by the Merchants’ House to the 
dignified office of Lord l)ean of Guild of the city of Glasgow. In 
1817, he wrote and caused to be published a most creditable and 
well-written “ History of the Merchants’ House of Glasgow, from 
its origin, in 1605, down to the year 1816.” In 1830 he was 
again elected Lord Dean of Guild. In 1831 Mr Ewing was 
appointed Lord Provost of the city of his nativity. In 1832 he 
was returned to the first Reformed Parliament as one of the city’s 
two representatives. In 1836, James Ewing bought the estate of 
Levenside from Lord Stonefield, and he then also bought Dum¬ 
barton Moor and other contiguous lands, to the combined whole of 
which he gave the name of Strathleven. In December of same 
year he married Miss Grawford, of Port-Glasgow, who still 
survives. 

After a long, useful, honourable life, James Ewing, LL.D., died 
on 29th November, 1853, in the 78th year of his age, and is 
buried in the Necropolis of Glasgow. He left many substantial 
benefactions to relatives, friends, and public institutions. 

His nephew, Humphrey Ewing Crum-Ewing, born in 1802, 
succeeded his uncle in the estate of Strathleven (in which, however, 
his uncle’s widow has a life-rent interest), but he did not reside 
on the j:>roperty, his residence being at Ardencaple Castle, Helens¬ 
burgh. He was created Lord-Lieutenant of Dumbartonshire on 
23rd February, 1874. He died, much regretted, on 3rd July, 
1887, and his son, Alexander Crum-Ewing, laird of Keppoch, is 
now fiar of Strathleven, and Justice of Peace for, and A T ice-Lieu- 
tenant of the county, Vice-Convener of the County Council, and 
altogether a most active, praise-worthy county gentleman, who 
does his best to keep untarnished the honour and esteem which 
for long has appertained to his family. He is now chief of the 


164 


BONHILL. 


house of James Ewing & Co., extensive West India proprietors, of 
which in turn his grand-uncle and his father were the heads. 

Alexander Crum-Ewing married Jane, only daughter of Admi¬ 
ral Hayes O’Grady of Erinagh House, County Clare, and has 
issue—a son (Humphrey) and two daughters. Mr Crum-Ewing 
is Hon. Colonel of the 3rd Lanarkshire Rifle Volunteers. 

CAMPBELLS OF TULLICHEWAN. 

The first Campbell of Tullichewan was William, a partner in 
the prosperous wholesale drapery house of Messrs J. & W. Camp¬ 
bell & Co., Glasgow. William Campbell was a grandson of 
James Campbell, Esq. of Ashentree, Perthshire, a cadet of the 
Melfort branch of the Argyll Campbells. 

In 1843, after a long and successful business career, Mr Camp¬ 
bell purchased from Mr ITorrocks the charming estate of Tullich¬ 
ewan, and also about the same period bought the contiguous 
properties of Auchendennan and Bromley, with the respective 
mansion houses thereof; the combined lands making a goodly 
domain. In 1864, the Auchendennan portion of it was sold by 
William Campbell to the late George Martin, a wealthy East 
India merchant ; Mr Campbell receiving for it <£23,000, being 
£50 more than double of what it had cost him originally. 

The old laird of Tullichewan died in 1861, and his son James, 
now a Deputy-Lieutenant of the county, reigns in his stead. 

The new laird was born on 31st March, 1823. He deceived a 
liberal education, such as might fit him for the proper discharge 
of the duties appertaining to a county gentleman of good estate, 
and a merchant of the first rank. In early manhood he was 
assumed as a partner in his father’s firm. On 21st April, 1846, 
he married Janet, daughter of James Black, Esq. of Cross- 
Arthurlie, having issue—two sons and three daughters. One of 
the latter is married to General Gildea, Bromley, and another is 
wife of William Ewing Gilmour, Esq. of Croftengea. 


BONIJILB. 


165 


Mr James Campbell is now, and lias been for long, head of the 
eminent firm of J. &, W. Campbell & Co., founded many years 
ago by his uncle, Sir James Campbell of Stracathro (sometime 
Lord Provost of Glasgow) and by his father, as co-partners; and 
under the management of its present painstaking, enterprising 
head it has lost none of its ancient prestige, but on the contrary 
stands in a more commanding position than ever. 

The laird of Tullicliewan has identified himself very closely 
with the movements in the city of Glasgow which have for their 
objects the refining and elevating of society. In the Yale of 
Leven, where he has long dwelt, he is a power for good. 

LUMSDENS OF AIIDEN. 

Sir James Lumsden, in 1866, purchased the estate of Arden 
from Herbert Buchanan, and on it erected a spacious and elegant 
mansion. Sir James was eldest son of the deceased James Lums¬ 
den, Lord Provost of Glasgow, 1843-46, wholesale stationer, 
Glasgow. Born in 1808, he, in 1835, married Elizabeth, daughter 
of James Pinkerton, merchant, Glasgow, and had issue—three 
daughters and one son, James. Sir James received a University 
education in his native city, of which he was Lord Dean of 
Guild, 1861-62, and was afterwards, for several years, a member 
of the town Council. From 1866 to 1869 he was Lord Provost 
of Glasgow, and during his period of office he received the honour 
of Knighthood, on the occasion of the laying of the memorial 
stone of the Glasgow University by the Prince of Wales. He 
was from 1849, with two brief intervals, a member of the Board 
of Directors of the Glasgow^ and South Western Railway, and 
was for some years its chairman. He was a Deputy-Lieutenant 
of, and a Justice of Peace for Dumbartonshire and Lanarkshire, 
and J.P. for Renfrewshire. 

After a brief illness, he died at his Glasgow house, 22nd March, 
1879. He was a corteous gentleman of marked ability, and 


168 


BONHILL. 


Martin, in or about the year 1868, resuscitated the almost mori¬ 
bund Dumbartonshire Agricultural Society ; and after Mr 
Smollett’s death he was for some years president of the same, and 
discharged the duties thereof most faithfully. 

The subject of this sketch has for long been a J.P. for 
Dumbartonshire, and was a Commissioner of Supply for the 
county for nearly a quarter of a century under the old regime. 

He has on many occasions represented the Presbytery of Dum¬ 
barton in the General Assembly of the “ Auld Kirk,” he being a 
Cardross elder. 

Mr Martin is a Conservative, and has been actively engaged in 
every political contest or movement in the county for the last 
quarter of a century, the first election contest in which lie took 
part being the celebrated one between Mr P. B. Smollett of Bonhill 
and Mr James Stirling of Cordale, in 1865. 

John MacLellan Martin succeeded Alexander Smollett, in 
1881, as Provincial Grand Master of the Free Masons in this 
Province, and he still holds the office, with credit to himself, and 
to the great benefit of the order. 

Having disposed of the matters and persons relating to Bonhill, 
I would follow up the same by saying here a few words about one 
of the two parishes which have been cut out of Bonhill, namely 
that of 

JAMESTOWN. 

The village of that cognomen is in many respects quite a model 
one. In my youthhood the place was a very tiny one, and had 
quite a rustic look; now it boasts long ranges of substantial two 
and three storeyed houses (of too uniform a style), tenanted by 
as well-conducted, intelligent, and thrifty operatives as can be 
found in the country. 

The most of the house property of Jamestown has been erected 
by and is the property of Sir Archd. Orr Ewing, Bart., of Balli- 


169 


-BONHILL. 

kinrain, M.P. for the County of Dumbarton, one of whose works 
—that of Levenfield—gives employment, directly or indirectly, to 
all the inhabitants of the place. While Sir Archibald has been 
eminently successful in business, and lives in a style commensur¬ 
ate with his leading position, yet that success has not rendered him 
callous or indifferent to the best interests of the band of honest 
workers who have helped him on to fortune. He has built for 
them a large hall accommodating four hundred people, having 
recreation and other rooms attached. The baronet bore half the 
cost of erecting the Parish Church, and the whole cost of the 
school buildings, all of which have been handed over to trustees 
for behoof of the parishioners. 

In connection with this brief notice, I give a biographical 
sketch of the minister of the parish, and say a few words about 
his church. 

i 

THE REV. D. J. MILLER, MINISTER OF JAMESTOW'N, 

was born June 9, 1855, at Eastfield, parish of Shotts, and comes 
of a well-known and highly respectable family, his ancestry, on 
both the paternal and maternal side, being traceable back to the 
days of the Covenanters. He received the elements of his educa¬ 
tion in the village school of Harthill, being the dux of the school, 
and retaining the affection and respect of his teacher, Mr James 
Thomson, till his death some years ago. After leaving this school 
(the family having come to Glasgow), Mr Miller was for tw 7 o 
years under the care of a tutor, and entered the University of 
Glasgow as an Arts student about the close of 1868. Here he 
earnestly and successfully pursued his studies till the spring of 
1875, taking an honourable place in all his classes, being a prize¬ 
man, and one of the best Hebrew 7 scholars of his year. His Hebrew 
Professor, the late Dr Weir, showed the high appreciation which 
he had of Mr Miller’s abilities by awarding him at the close of his 
studies a bursary which he had at his disposal to give to one of his 


170 


BONHILL. 


most distinguished students. As a student, Mr Miller enjoyed 
the almost unique position of never having been absent, even for 
a single hour, from any of his classes during his Arts-Divinity 
courses of seven years. 

He was licensed by the Presbytery of Greenock on May 5, 

1875, and, being regarded as one of the most promising young 
men of his time, had, a few days after license, the offer of three 
appointments — two city assistantships, and the oversight of a 
new charge that was being formed in the suburbs of Glasgow. 
Of these offers, he accepted the assistantship of St. Stephen’s 
Parish, Glasgow, where he remained for over a year, making many 
friends, and giving great satisfaction by his pulpit and parochial 
ministrations. 

He was ordained to Jamestown Parish Church (the first congre¬ 
gation before which he had appeared as a candidate) on Dec. 2G, 

1876, and owing to his very youthful appearance was frequently 
spoken of as “ the boy preacher.” His ministry in Jamestown 
has been singularly successful and able, as may be measured by 
the fact that in 1882 the congregation had increased so much that 
it was found necessary to enlarge the church (which was built in 
1869, with accommodation for about eight hundred people) to the 
extent of about three hundred additional sittings. The church, 
with its recently-added organ and organ gallery, and handsome 
hall adjoining, forms possibly the finest set of ecclesiastical build¬ 
ings in the county of Dumbarton. 








































































































































(£ It a p i c i* 13. 


KILMARONOCK AN1) BUCHANAN. 

(^jTHERE lias Been much disputation over the derivation of the 
name of the parish of Kilmaronock, which neighbours that 
of Bonliill to the north. The most evident derivation, however,, 
is Kil-ma-Ronach, the kirk or burying place of St. Ronacb. Of. 
his history little of a certain nature is known. An old well in the 
parish still bears his name, and in byegone times it was held in 
great veneration for the marvellous cures effected by its agency. 
Now, in this age of little faith, the virtue has clean gone out- cf 
it. 

Prior to date 1324 there is no known record relating to this 
parish, which is situated at the extreme north-eastern portion of 
the county of Dumbarton. In the January of that year, King. 
Robert Bruce granted the Church of Kilmaronock to the Abbey 
of Cambuskenneth (just as he did that of Dumbarton to Kilwin¬ 
ning). Prior to its transference tc Cambuskenneth, the church is 






















































































174 


KILMARONOCK. 


supposed to have been a free parsonage in the gift of the Earls of 
Lennox. In addition to the old church in the north-east of the 
parish, there appears to have been a chapel at Shenagles, or “ Old 
Kirk Ballagan.” 

Including John de Lindsay, rector of the church in 1325, and the 

REV. MR BOYD, 

the present incumbent, twenty-eight successive ministers have 
held the living of Kilmaronock. The present church was built in 
1813, and contains four hundred sittings. The manse was built 
in 1804, and has attached to it a glebe of seven imperial acres. 

The parish minister of this date was born in the parish of Kin¬ 
cardine, Ross-shire, and received the latter part of his education 
(with the exception of a year at St. Andrews), at King’s College, 
Aberdeen. lie finished his Divinity course and was licensed in 
1867. In the same year he was appointed missionary in charge 
of the Bridgegate Chapel, Glasgow, and in 1869 was ordained 
minister of the chapel, which was in 1871 erected into a parish 
church quoad sacia. In 1879 Mr Boyd was elected assistant and 
successor to the late Rev. W. B. S. Paterson. Mr Boyd in 1874 
married Miss Agnes M'Culloch, Glasgow, and has surviving issue 
three children. 

The other minister in the parish is the United Presbyterian one, 

REV. JAMES DUNLOP. 

A native of the parish of Riccarton, Ayrshire, he entered the 
University of Edinburgh in 1843 ; was licensed as a preacher by 
the U.P. Presbytery of Edinburgh on 1st of April, 1851 ; called 
to Kilmaronock on the 19th of August, and ordained minister of 
the congregation on 6th January, 1852. Was convener of the 
Committee of Synod that re-distributed the Presbyteries of Glas¬ 
gow and Paisley and Greenock, one of the results of which was 
the erection of a Presbytery of Dumbarton, on the 10th of June, 


KlLMAftONOCK. 


175 

1879. At its first meeting lie was appointed Clerk of Presbytery, 
and still continues to fill the ollice. - Mr Dunlop is the fifth 
minister of the congregation, which had its origin in an unpopular 
presentation of a minister to the church and parish of Kilmaron- 
ock in 1770. 


TI1E LANDS OF KILMARONOCK. 

In 1329 the lands of Kilmaronock were in the hands of Sir 
Malcolm Fleming, Sheriff of Dumbartonshire, for life, for the 
keeping of Dumbarton Castle. From the Fleming family, in the 
middle of the fourteenth century, the isle of Inchcalliache and 
lands of Kilmaronock passed into the hands of John Dennistoun 
of that ilk. In 1401, by marriage, these possessions became the 
property of Sir William Cunninghame of Kilmaurs. In course of 
time the property was disposed of to the first Earl of Dundonald, 
and was erected into a barony in favour of William Cochran 
(brother of John, the second Earl), who feued out the most of it 
among small holders, long known in the parish as {5 Aber lairds 
and these “ bonnet ” lairds have given quite a distinctive character 
to the parish. In the ancient burying-place of the parish there 
lie many of these worthies, whose lives, did my arrangements 
admit of it, would “ point a moral and adorn a tale.” 

The only antiquity I know of in the parish is the ruinous castle 
of Mains, which is of very ancient date. Over an arched window 
of the building there is still to be seen a lozenge-shaped shield, 
charged with a bend dexter, the bearing of the Dennistouns of 
that ilk, which would naturally lead one to the conclusion that 
it was erected ere the estate had passed out of their hands 
into those of the Glencairn family, with whom they were 
allied. This roofless, time-gnawed, lofty square keep, which wears 
a plume of trees upon its crest, is still an imposing object in the 
landscape. It appears to have been a battlemented building of 
five storeys in height. The Dundonald family, who succeeded the 


176 


KILMARONOCK. 

Cunninghames in Kilmaronock, sold the Mains to an ancestor of 
Robert Macgowne, from whose sister it passed into the hands of 
Bruce Macadam. 

At Catter, at the extreme north end of the parish, there was a 
stronghold erected by the Earls of Lennox. 

BUCHANANS OF DRUMAKILL AND ROSS 

About the middle of the fifteenth century, Patrick, eldest son of 
Sir Walter de Buchanan, and Isabel, daughter of Duke Murdoch 
of Albany, Governor of Scotland, by Isabel, Countess of Lennox 
in her own right, married Galbraith, heiress of Killearn. Bamore, 
and Auchenscoch. Their younger son, Thomas, was, in 1482, 
founder of the house of Drumakill, whence in the third generation 
sprang the celebrated George Bnchanan, of world-wide fame. In 
later days, one of Sir Walter Scott’s colleagues at the clerks’ table 
of the Court of Session was Hector MacDonald Buchanan, Esq., 
of Drumakill, proprietor of Ross Priory and adjoining lands, “a 
frank-liearted and generous gentleman,’’says Lockhart, Sir Walter’s 
biographer and son-in-law, “ and not the less acceptable to Scott 
for the Highland prejudices he inherited with the high blood of 
Clanranald ; at whose beautiful seat of Ross Priory, on the shores 
of Lochlomond, he was almost annually a visitor—a circumstance 
which has left many traces in the Waverly Novels.” Buchanan, 
Sir Walter’s friend, had nine sons and daughters, whose names are 
all inscribed on tablets of stone in a shady corner of the policies, 
where rest the Buchanans of Ross, and which, but for the gurgle 
of a passing burn and the carol of birds from their umbrageous 
bowers, would be a sad and silent place. Almost all the daugh¬ 
ters are buried in this romantic God’s Acre, but the sons’ remains 
are scattered far and wide. One lies at Bombay, one at Gibralter, 
one at Malta, and one at Avignon. Long ago it seems that a 
MacGregor who had been injured by the Ross family laid his 
curse upon it, and, according to his predictions, there is no Buck- 


KlLMAliONOCK. 


1 I* r* 

1 i ( 

anan in the direct line left; but fair young maidens, beautiful as 
the morning, and brave young men, sons and daughters of Sir 
George H. Leith-Buchanan, Bart., still, through the female line, 
worthily represent the glory of the old family of Ross, in whose 
veins runs the blood royal of Scotland. 

In life’s early morn I, in company with two school companions, 
now, alas, no more, made a pilgrimage to Ross Priory. On our 
way we visited an uncle of theirs at Bonhill, who treated us to a 
tune or tunes upon an instrument he himself had made, but offered 
us nothing in the way of the food we so much stood in need of. 
Nothing daunted, we pressed on, and in due time reached Locli- 
lomondside and Ross Priory. We entered the avenue, we walked 
under the deep shade of magnificent beech trees, spreading oaks, 
stately elms, feathery ashes, and tender limes. We saw the old 
house, which conjured up in our mind’s eye visions of the days of 
eld—of monks and nuns, and the solemn sounds of praise and 
prayer. Around us lay a scene never to be effaced from momory’s 
tablet. Before us, due north, rose Benlomond in all its majesty ; 
through a hollow to the left the “ Cobbler ” showed his rugged 
form ; right opposite us, across the bay, lay the pass of Balmaha; 
and, somewhat to its right, Buchanan Castle, from off a spacious, 
fertile plain, reared its lofty head, embowered in woods ; while in 
the foreground and in the distance many isles of beauty begemmed 
the chrystal flood, forming a most beauteous, fascinating combin¬ 
ation. We also stumbled across the old burying-place of the 
Buchanan family noticed above. 0, but we were hungry wights 
when our sight-seeing was over. We had no money and no pro¬ 
visions, and as we wandered disconsolately along the banks of 
Lochlomond on our homeward journey to Dumbarton, a decent, 
sonsy married woman, in whom the milk of human kindness 
flowed freely, took pity on us in our low, lost, and almost ruined 
estate, and invited us into her modest, snod-kept cot, where anon 
she served us with routh o’ tea, scones, and powans, for the love 


178 


K1LMAR0N0CK. 


of God. If that woman’s spirit be disembodied, may it now be 
resting in Paradise. We were hungry, and she fed us; we were 
thirsty, and she gave us to drink ; we were footsore and weary, 
and she gave us rest. After the lapse of between fifty and sixty 
years, that matron’s form stands before my mind’s eye radiant 
with all the Christian graces. 

Having offered up this incense to the memory of a woman most 
worthy, and briefly sketched the history of the historic family of 
Buchanan of Ross, I will now give the history of one or two more 
of the leading families of Kilmaronock Parish ; and the next to 
be mentioned is that of the 

MACKENZIES OF CALDARVAN. 

This family has maintained a very close connection, down to the 
present, with the county town, Dumbarton, in which, for several 
generations, they carried on business, were property holders, and 
played a leading part. Robert Maclvenzie, a worthy, prosperous, 
eighteenth-century burgess of Dumbarton, had a son also Robert, 
who was sheriff-clerk of the county, and in addition, was factor 
on Ardoch estate, Cardross, from 1773 to 1808. ITis country 
residence was at Clydebank, Cardross. The lands which lie adja¬ 
cent thereto, viz. :—Ardoch, Lee, Clydebank, and Hawthornhill, 
were reclaimed by him from the surrounding waste, howling 
wilderness; and having obtained leases of the same in 1789, he 
built farm steadings on them. His eminent success as a reclaimer 
of land induced Mr Graham, the proprietor of the Ardoch estate, 
to offer him, on easy terms, an improving lease of the two parks 
on which Dennystown, a part of Dumbarton, now stands. Those 
were then mere worthless quag-mires, but Mr Maclvenzie, having 
drained and otherwise improved the fields, soon had them bear¬ 
ing luxuriant crops of wheat. 

In 1802, he acquired part of the estate of Caldarvan, Kilmaro¬ 
nock, from James Cuuninghame. On 18th April, 1815, he fell 


KILMAttONOCK. 


179 


asleep, and was, after a long, honourable, useful life, garnered 
into the God's Acre of Dumbarton, like a shock of corn fully ripe. 
His son, another Robert, succeeded him in the estate of Caldar- 
van, and also in the lands of Priestyard and Broomfauld, Dum¬ 
barton. He was educated to the profession of writer, but never 
practised in it. After his father’s death, he, in summer, resided 
at Caldarvan, and in winter, in the family property immediately 
to the east of Heggie’s Buildings, High Street, Dumbarton. 

He died 4th April, 1825 (and is also buried in Dumbarton), 
leaving three sons — Robert Duncanson, now of Caldarvan; 
Walter, of Edinbarnet, Kilpatrick, chartered accountant, Glasgow, 
and Alexander Campbell, who died several years ago in Madras. 

The present laird of Caldarvan was born at Clydebank, Car- 
dross, in August, 1812, and finished his education at the Univer¬ 
sity of Glasgow, taking the degree of M.A., in 1830. He began, 
in Dumbarton, his business career as a writer, in the year 1836. 
Shortly thereafter, he accepted a business partnership in Glasgow, 
from which he retired in 1885, leaving his son partner in the 
eminent firm, the designation of which is MacKenzie, Gardner, 
& Alexander, writers, of which Mr R. D. MacKenzie had been 
for many years the senior partner. 

In 1840 Mr Mackenzie re-built the mansion house of Caldarvan, 
and in 1842 married his cousin Susan, daughter of Sheriff Alex¬ 
ander Campbell, laird of Barnhill, and had issue five daughters 
and two sons. Robert, now the only surviving son, in 1873 
married Elizabeth Hill Beveridge, daughter of William Beveridge, 
Esq., of East Grange, Fifeshire, and has surviving issue two sons. 

One of Mr R. D. Mackenzie's daughters was married to James 
Lumsden, Esq., of Arden, but she is dead. 

R. D. Mackenzie, who is a Justice of Peace for Dumbarton¬ 
shire, was, at the retirement of Mr Smollett of Bonhill, unani¬ 
mously elected Convener of the County ; and, under the Local 
Government Act, was with hearty unanimity elected Chairman of 


180 


KILMARONOCK. 


the County Council, and as such continues Convener of the 
County, as well as Convener of the Commissioners of Supply. 

Notwithstanding his business engagements in Glasgow, he has, 
since 1842, resided at Caldarvan, and has taken and still takes an 
active interest in all parochial as well as county matters. He has 
been chairman of all the successively elected School Boards of the 
parish of Kihnaronock ; and in his time the estate of Caldarvan 
has been added to considerably in acreage, and has had its drain¬ 
age and plantations greatly improved. Altogether, the laird of 
Caldarvan is the type of man whom any county might feel proud 
to own as one of its leading members. Although almost an octo¬ 
genarian, he possesses much of the push, go, and elasticity of early 
manhood, but beautifully tempered by the wisdom of age. 

JOHN CUNNINGHAM-LENY OF GARTOC11AKN. 

This erstwhile well-known, kenspeckle, old-fashioned specimen 
of the Kilmaronock laird of the more outre type, was in the habit 
of visiting Dumbarton now and then for supplies, and these he 
almost invariably carried home in his hands or on his back, despis¬ 
ing the aid of vehicular conveyances. On these state occasions lie- 
made his appearance in the county town got up in this wise—he 
was arrayed in a beaver hat of the chimney-pot style, a showy, 
blue swallow-tailed coat, and vest, with sliiney gilt buttons, 
and having continuations in the shape of corduroy knee breeches 
and “ rig-and-fur ” stockings ; his “ understandings ” being en¬ 
cased in double-soled Blucher boots. The laird was a wealthy 
man, therefore it could not be said of him, what was said of some 
of the lesser landed proprietors of the district, that “ their tenants 
were rougher o’ siller than the lairds themselves.” It was always 
currently reported that laird Cunningham had, along with large 
money and considerable lands, heired a quantity of silver plate, 
and kept the same for safety in a “ tatie ” bag under the bed he 


KILMARONOCK. 


181 


slept in. The laird also gained some notoriety by growing a crop 
of potatoes on the roof of one of his outhouses. 

This owner and tiller of the soil was a confirmed bachelor, and 
was not by any means lavish in his expenditure of cash. He died 
about a score of years ago. His nephews possess his erstwhile 
inheritance. 


JAMES GALBRAITH OF BLAIRENNICH, 
eldest son of William Galbraith, who farmed the lands of Cam- 
busmoon for twenty years, was born on .January 1st, 1819. In 
early manhood, he was engaged in commercial pursuits in the 
city of Glasgow. In 1842, he bought the estate of Blairennich 
from the Ross priory family. These lands, which lie between the 
Ross and Caldarvan properties, are, for situation and surround¬ 
ings, highly attractive, and are within easy reach of the shores of 
Lochlomond. Since the estate came into his possession, the laird 
has eidently and successfully cultivated his own acres, as well 
as those of Townfoot, which he rents. 

Laird Galbraith takes upon himself a fair share of the public 
work which usually devolves upon gentlemen of his standing. 
He is a Justice of Peace and a Commissioner of Supply for the 
county, and also a member of the Kilmaronock School Board, and 
to the due and proper discharge of the duties connected therewith 
he gives careful heed. 

Before passing on to treat of matters appertaining to the 
parish of Buchanan, I would say a few words in regard to the 
Kilmaronock laird of the old school. He, as a rule, dearly lo’ed 
a dram, and his favourite howff was the “Gowk Inn,” a roadside 
pub. between Balloch and Gartocharn, now devoted to the adminis¬ 
tering to the public of teetotal beverages and other innocent solid 
and liquid compounds. In this erstwhile temple of Bacchus many 
a heavy drinking bout took place. These led up, in all probabi¬ 
lity, to several of the lairdships falling, through the impoverish- 


182 


BUCHANAN. 


ment of the owners, into the hands of burgessess of Dumbarton. 
Robert Maclvenzie got Caldarvan, George Lang, Cambusmoon, 
and Robert Oolquhoun, Spittal. 

BUCHANAN. 

When the kirk of Inchcalkach was allowed to go into decay, 
in the middle of the 17th century, the private chapel of Buchanan 
came to be used as the parish church, and from that circumstance, 
shortly thereafter, the name of the parish got changed from what 
it was to what it is. 

When the old chapel was razed, a new church was erected 
about 1770. The right of sepulture in it, which the Buchanans 
of that ilk had held for many generations, was reserved for not 
only them but for two branches of the family, Auchmar and 
Spittal. 

As a matter of course, the change in regard to the situation of 
the kirk of the parish gradually led to a change in regard to the 
place where the deceased parishioners were interred. The aver¬ 
age mortal, when his race is o’er, desiretli to be laid nigh to the 
sacred editice where prayer is wont to be made, and where the 
offering of praise stealeth softly o’er his resting place, as if these 
and the murmurous voice of the pastor expounding “ the Word ” 

could sooth the dull, cold ear of death.” 

The ground covered by the well-kept, tasteful little kirk, and 
that embraced in the kirkyard of Buchanan, is, I should opine, 
under an acre in extent. The place of prayer has one gallery, and 
it is set apart for the use of the Montrose family, the members of 
which, when living at the castle, worship with most commendable 
regularity in the kirk of the parish, thus showing a good example 
to the humbler parishioners. I may be allowed to state that the 
service of praise (as well as the other services) is very good. It 
is led by a harmonium, and a choir composed of school children. 
The ground in front of the sacrec] editice is beautified exceed- 


BUCHANAN. 


183 


ingly with lime trees and arborvitaes. The other portions of the 
God’s Acre are given up to the dominion of the nettle and docken, 
as is the rule in most country kirkyards. 

The church of Buchanan, which stands about three miles from 
Lochlomond, and one-and-a-half mile from Buchanan Castle, was 
repaired in 1828, and a few years ago it again received a very 
complete overhaul. It has sittings for 300 people. The present 
incumbent of the parish is the 


REV. DR. MACKINTOSH, 

who was ordained tD the charge in 1848. He officiates twice a 
year at Rowardennan, and once at Inversnaid. 

This parish, which lieth immediately to the north of that of 
Kilmaronock, is very sparsely populated. 

The minister of the parish was born at Leven, in Fife, in 1821. 
Educated at the High School of Edinburgh, and afterwards at St. 
Andrew’s University, where he graduated M.A. in 1839. Licen¬ 
sed in 1845, by Presbytery of Kirkcaldy. Appointed assisstant at 
Whittinghame; ordained to the parish of Buchanan in 1848. 
In 187G, he received the degree of D.D. from St. Andrew’s 
University. 

Dr MacKintosh is one of the most cultured and polished 
ministers of the Church of Scotland, and he is imbued with a 
large measure of modesty and amiability. From his quiet retreat, 
he has sent forth certain pamphlets and essays of great merit. He 
was also one of the contributors to “ Scotch Sermons,which 
volume in its time stirred Scotland to its centre, on account of 
the ripe scholarship and literary excellence which it displayed, 
and the supposed heteredox flavour which pervaded’portions of it. 

The reverend doctor’s right hand man in the execution of the 
parochial work appertaining to his sacred oflice was, for a long 
series of years, the gentleman whose biography I proceed to give. 


184 


BUCHANAN. 


CHARLES MACPHIE, PARISH SCHOOLMASTER. 

This most exemplary man and model teacher was born at Bal- 
fron, 31st December, 1813, and died at Buchanan, 29th November, 
1890. He, by dint of perseverance, naturally good talent, and 
propriety of conduct, triumphed over difficulties, and rose from a 
comparatively humble and uninfluential position to one of con¬ 
siderable distinction. After spending his youthood in study, he, 
in early manhood, became a remarkably successful educator, and 
kind friend of the young .who were entrusted to his charge in the 
parish school of Buchanan, to which he was appointed upwards 
of forty years ago. 

Mr M‘Phie’s heart was in his work, and he, with the valuable 
aid and warm encouragement of Dr and Mrs MacKintosh, made 
the school of Buchanan famous. In addition to the usual branches 
of education, the pupils without distinction were taught in it music 
and dancing, and probably there is not a parish in Scotland which 
can shew a better record of education, conducted on simple, 
useful, and painstaking lines. In the work of the school, the 
Duke and Duchess of Montrose also took a lively interest, and the 
examinations and annual concerts at the school-room were graced 
by their presence, as well as by that of many cultured, influential 
people from all the surrounding district. When Mr M‘Phie had 
reached the patriarchal term of seventy-seven years, he died, leaving 
behind him a wife, two sons, several daughters, a host of loving 
friends, and not one enemy. He w T as buried in the auld kirkyard 
of Buchanan. His remains were consumed to the grave in 
presence of a numerous assemblage, who felt deeply that the 
district was the poorer by the withdrawal from its midst of the 
venerated teacher, elder of the kirk, and registrar of the parish. 
Charles M‘Phie was unusually happy in his family and-friend¬ 
ships. He enjoyed a well spent life, and in faith continually 
looked forward to a happy eternity. Blessed are those who thus 
live and thus die, 


BUCHANAN. 


185 


Opposite the western door of the kirk of Buchanan, there is 
the now 

BURYING PLACE OF THE DUCAL FAMILY OF MONTROSE. 

In its vault lie the remains of the Marquis of Graham, who 
caught typhoid fever at Home, and died from its effects in Eng¬ 
land on 3rd April, 1872, aged twenty-five years. He was interred 
here at his own request, under a tree in the wood which fringes 
the last resting-place of the dead parishioners. This spot has 
been consecrated, and has been to a certain extent brought into 
connection with the parish burying-ground ; but the Montrose 
tomb is shut off from it by an. ornamental iron railing. The de 
ceased Marquis was much beloved by all who knew him, and his 
death was widely deplored. Over his mortal remains there has 
been placed an enclosed, flat, white marble stone of memorial, 
raised a foot or so above the ground, which has on it this inscrip¬ 
tion :—“ This memorial is erected by his sorrowing parents to the 
memory of their son, James, Marquis of Graham, born, 22nd June, 
1847 ; died 3rd April, 1872. He died in the bright morning of 
life, in peaceful and firm reliance in his eternal salvation through 
the mercy of his Heavenly Father. Almighty God, give to his 
afflicted family the peace which Thou alone can give.” From the 
head of the sarcophagus there rises an ornamental white marble 
cross, emblematic of the bright, cheering belief, that those who 
sleep ’neath its shade sleep well. 

It may be interesting for my readers to know that the former 
burying-place of the Montrose family was at Aber-ruthven, near 
Auchterarder. 

Almost the only other tombstones of any importance in the 
Kirkyard of Buchananareone “Erected to the memory of the Bev. 
William Freeland, ordained minister of this parish ; died Nov. 5, 
1847, aged 72 years and another which marks the burying-place. 
of the Auchmar Buchanans, 


o 


186 


BUCHANAN. 


OTHER PLACES OF SEPULTURE. 

I now go on to make mention of all the places of sepulture 
within the bounds of the parish. 

In all, there are five of these, of which three are now entirely 
disused. 1, there is the common burying ground beside the 
church (just described) ; 2, Inch Calliach (which receives notice 
further on); 3, near Buchanan Castle there is a circle of stones, 
and a hollowed stone or font which seems to have occupied the 
centre, and that is believed to have at one time been the burying 
place of the Buchanan family of that ilk ; but .the tradition is 
somewhat uncertain. 4, there is an unenclosed burying ground 
near the old garrison at Inversnaid, and one of the stones in it 
bore the name of the wife of one of the officers ; but the name is 
now effaced and forgotten. 5, there is a small walled-in space 
near Strone Macnair, in Glendhu, at the back of Benlomond, 
which was used by a family of Grahams, who up to about forty- 
five years ago, when they sold the property to the late Duke of 
Montrose, retained a right to burial there; but they never seem to 
have used their right. 

Further up the Glen, there are said to be marks of another 
burying place, but even tradition whispers nothing further regard¬ 
ing it than what is stated above. 

I now go on to describe the most famous of all the aforemen¬ 
tioned places of sepulture, namely, that of 

INCH CALLIACH 

(which meaneth Isle of Old Women), a very ancient place of burial. 

This fair isle, which belongs to the Duke of Montrose, is seven 
furlongs in length, and nearly three-and-a-half furlongs in breadth. 
It lieth about a stone-cast off the pier of Balmaha, on the eastern 
bank of Lochlomond, and is accessible by aid of a row or other 
small boat. For beauty of form or for rich apparelling it is 
surpassed by no other isle on Lochlomond, nor by any other isle 


BUCHANAN. 


187 

on any other loch, as far as my knowledge or judgment goes. It 
is altogether a stately isle. At its richly wooded south-eastern 
extremity it shoots up with its crest of pines I would say one 
hundred feet sheer out of the pellucid waters of the lake. The 
isle, as it trendeth westward and northward from this coign of 
vantage, assumes a less majestic form ; but, taken as a whole, it 
is as lovely as a dream of Paradise. I have gazed upon it at all 
seasons of the ever-varying year, and can heartily declare that in 
all these changes it ever disclosed some hitherto undreamt-of 
charm. In late Autumn, when the many varieties of trees which 
here have their habitat assume their gorgeous robes—dyed yellow, 
red, brown, and scarlet by the fingers of the departing year—and 
the bright sunbeams gild and the wanton winds play with their 
tresses, while the tiny, playful wavelets leap up in music round 
their rocky fastness, then any one with an eye in his head and a 
brain behind it must confess that Inchcalliach is surpassingly 
lovely. 

On its summit in the days of eld there was a nunnery ; and on 
that isle, from hoar antiquity down to about the middle of the 
seventeenth century, there stood the kirk of the parish, which was 
then named Inchcalliach, and not Buchanan, as it is at present. 
The place of burial in connection with these holy houses is still 
held in reverence, and betimes the death-barge conveyeth to its 
hallowed soil the earthly remains of some grim MacGregor, 
Buchanan, Graham, or Mitchell, there to sleep their long sleep, 
life’s battle o’er. 

Can we wonder that a place so fraught with sacred memories 
has been the theme of the poet’s lay % No, verily; had it been 
otherwise, one would have marvelled thereat mightily. In a 
Chambers ’ Journal of recent date, Wallace Bruce thus writes of 
the beauteous isle, the burial-place of Clan-Alpine, resembling, 
from Bossdhu, a reclining body with folded arms: 


188 


BUCHANAN. 


No more Clan-Alpine’s pibroch wakes 
Loch Lomond’s hills and waters blue ; 

“ Hail to the Chief” no longer breaks 
The quiet sleep of Roderick L)hu : 

Enwrapped in peace the islands gleam 
Like emerald gems in sapphire set, 

And far away, as in a dream, 

Float purple fields, where heroes met. 

Inch-Cailliach—island of the blest! 
Columba’s daughter, passing fair, 

With folded arms upon her breast, 

Rests soft in sunset radiance there ; 

A vision sweet of fond Elaine, 

And floating barge of Camelot, 

Upon her brow no trace of pain, 

And on her heart “ forget me not.” 

Forget thee, saintly guardian ? Nay, 

From distant lands across the sea 

To this lone isle I fondly stray, 

With song and garland fresh for thee ; 

I trace the old inscriptions dear, 

Fast fading now from mortal ken, 

And through the silvered lichens peer 
To read MacAlpine’s name again. 

My mother’s name a sacred link, 

Which binds me to the storied past; 

A rainbow bridge from brink to brink, 
Which spans with light the centuries vast. 

Two hundreds years Clan-Alpine’s pine 
Has struck its roots in other lands ; 

My pulses thrill to trace the sign 

And touch the cross with reverent hands. 

All ruin here !—the shrine is dust, 

The chapel wall a shapeless mound ; 

But nature guards with loving trust, 

And ivy twines her tendrils round 


BUCHANAN. 


189 


The humble slab, more fitting far 
Than gilded dome for Scotia's line ; 

The open sky and northern star, 

Become the chieftains of the pine. 

« 

The light streams out from fair Rossdhu 
Across the golden-tinted wave ; 

That crumbling keep, that ancient yew, 

Still mark a worthy foeman’s grave ; 

But warm the hearts that now await 
Our coming at the open door, 

With love and friendship at the gate, 

And beacon-lights along the shore. 

Dear Scotia ! evermore more dear 
To loyal sons in every land ; 

Strong in a race that knew not fear, 

And for man’s freedom dared to stand ; 

Ay, dearer for thy songs that float 
Like thistle-down o’er land and sea, 

And strike the universal note 
Of love, and faith, and liberty. 

Sir Walter Scott, in “ The Lady of the Lake,” speaks thus of 
the component parts of the fiery cross sent round by Rhoderick 
Dhu to summon his clan to battle : 

“ The shafts and limbs were rods of yew, 

Whose fellows in Inch-Calliach wave 
Their shadows o’er Clan Alpine’s grave, 

And, answering Lomond’s breezes deep, 

Soothe many a chieftain’s endless sleep.” 

One of these chieftains was a MacGregor who died at Craig- 
Croston in 1693. His tombstone is rudely adorned with the arms 
of his family, the honour of his house, and the period of his death. 

A few years ago the body of Duncan Graham was buried in 
this ancient place of sepulture. For long time Duncan was the 
Duke of Montrose’s deer keeper on Inchmurrin, and a well-known 
character, who took the liberty of selling an unlicensed dram in 


190 BUCHANAN. 

his domicile, which I have “preed,” and declare to have been an 
honest tipple, in spite of Her Majesty the Queen not sharing in 
the profits of his trading. 

More recently, the remains of a young man named MacGregor 
(a son of the keeper of the deer on Inchmurrin) were laid to rest 
within the bosom of this isle most hallowed. He was a member of 
a celebrated rowing crew of MacGregors who showed great pluck 
and endurance in many a hot contest. And it is not many months 
since the body of a Mr Mitchell was brought from one of the 
Hebrid isles to the God’s Acre of Inchcalliach for interment. The 
deceased was doubtless a member of the family of the Mitchells 
of Blairvockie, several generations of whom are buried in the 
sacred isle. 

The graveyard is surrounded by a low, ruinous wall of about a 
foot-and-a-half in height, where, among other things not so delect¬ 
able, sweet wild roses blow. The place of graves contains a con¬ 
siderable number of flat and upright memorial stones, many of 
which are of very ancient and a few of modern date. The older 
ones are adorned with cross bones and skulls—if such hideous 
things may be termed an ornament; and the newer ones are of a 
plainer description. The place of burial is over-run with nettles, 
dockens, bramble bushes, tangled grass, and other things which 
love to batten on the dead. I do not know that that state of matters 
need produce any great regret, as to my thinking there would be 
something incongruous in a visitor to this sequestered spot coming 
upon anything approaching a garden cemetery in appearance. 

Having placed before you, my reader, the general memorabilia 
of the parish, I will now submit to you brief sketches of its historic 
families. 

In regard to the history of the family of 

BUCHANANS OF THAT ILK, 

of which Auchmar was a branch, aud a member of which, in 1636, 



DUMBARTON OLD PARISH CHURCH and BUCHANAN ALMS’ HOUSE. 












BUCHANAN. 


191 


# 

erected an alms-house or hospital at Dumbarton and endowed it 
with £.1021, it can of a verity be said it is of a very ancient and 
honourable lineage. The reputed founder of the Buchanans was 
Anselan, son of O’Kyan, King of Ulster, in Ireland, who landed 
with a few followers on the west coast of Scotland, near the Lennox 
country, about the year 1016, and in that territory took root and 
flourished. The name of Buchanan is territorial, and was only 
assumed by the family at a subsequent period. Anselan, seventh 
laird of Buchanan, seneschal to Malcolm, first Earl of Levenax 
(Lennox), and two of his sons, Gilbert and Metldan, witnessed a 
charter granted by the earl to Gilmore, son of Maoldonich, of the 
lands of Luss, in the reign of Alexander the Second. In 1225, 
this same Anselan obtained from the same earl a charter of a 
small island in Lochlomond called Clareinch, the name of which 
island afterwards became the rallying cry of the Buchanans. 
Anselan had three sons- — Methlan, ancestor of the M‘Millans ; 
Colman, ancestor of the MacColmans ; and his successor, Gilbert 
or Gillebrid, who appears to have borne the surname of Buchanan. 
There is a charter of confirmation of that of Clareinch, and some 
of the lands of Buchanan, granted in favour of this Gilbert by 
King Alexander the Second in 1231. After an eventful, heroic 
career, becoming connected through marriage with several noble 
families, and founding several distinguished houses, such as Auch- 
mar, Spittal, Leny, Drumakill, and others, the principal line of 
the family became extinct on the death of John, last laird of 
Buchanan, in 1G82. His estate was shortly thereafter sold by his 
creditors, and bought by the ducal family of Montrose. The re¬ 
presentation of the Buchanan family at that date devolved upon 
the Buchanans of Auchmar, who in their turn became extinct in 
1 816. One or more members of this family is or are buried in the 
11amshorn Churchyard, Glasgow. The late Dr. Francis Hamilton- 
Buchanan of Bardowie, Spittal, and Leny, as heir male of Walter, 
first of the family of Spittal, established in 1826 his claim as chief 


192 


BUCHANAN. 


of the clan, and in his family it rests still. 

The next historical family to receive a notice at my hands is 
that of 


THE DUCAL HOUSE OF MONTROSE. 

which is one of high antiquity and distinguished fame. Its founder 
in Scotland was the Anglo-Norman knight, Sir William de Graham, 
who came to Scotland in the reign of David the First, from whom 
he received the lands of Abercorn and Dalkeith. The knight had 
two sons, Peter and John, in whom the direct line was carried on. 
In the time of William the Lion the family obtained the lands of 
Charlton and Barrowfield, as well as the lordship of Kinnabar, all 
in Forfarshire ; and this was the first connection of the family 
with the district in which the lands of “ auld Montross ” are 
situated, whence they subsequently derived their ducal title. In 
war and in peace the family made itself felt as a powerful factor 
in the state, occupying, as members of it did in several reigns, 
prominent positions as soldiers, statesmen, and administrators. 
Sir John de Graham in Wallace’s time did notable service in the 
cause of defending his country’s liberties ; and the race has earned 
for itself, by prowess in the field, the proud title of the 
“ Gallant Grahams.” Sir David Graham, in Bruce’s reign, was 
one of his most valiant and trusted supporters in camp, field of 
fight, and at council board. In 1451 the family was enobled, 
its then chief, Patrick Graham, being created Lord Graham. 
William, third Lord Graham, in 1504-5 was created Earl of 
Montrose by James the Fourth. In the fulness of time (1612) 
there sprang from the illustrious house “ the most honourable 
James, Marquesse of Montrose, Earl of Kincardine, &c., and 
General Governour for His Majesty in the Kingdome of Scotland in 
the years 1644, ’45, and ’46.” Immediately before the first of these 
' dates Montrose sided with the Covenanters. He then, to their 
disgust and to the joy of the Royalists, sided with the crown, and 


BUCHANAN. 


193 


wrought great havoc amongst his former friends on many a battle 
field. He is looked upon by one set of men as an apostate whose 
memory is of an ill odour, and by another as the pink of knightly 
perfection, whose memory ought to be held in reverence by all 
loyal citizens. His troops having been defeated in 1650 at Corbies- 
dale, Ross-shire, when invading the kingdom in the interests of his 
master, he fled into the wilds of Assynt, where he was captured^ 
nearly starved to death, and delivered up to General Leslie, by 
whom he was brought to Edinburgh. He was there tried as a 
traitor to the Covenant, and condemned to death. He was exe¬ 
cuted 21st May, 1650. His demeanour in his last moments was 
very noble and dignified, leading one to the conclusion that he at 
all events was at peace with God and his own conscience. 

In an old work which I hold on Montrose’s wars in Scotland, of 
date about two hundred and fifty years ago, I found the following 
lines composed by him upon the death of King Charles the First : 

“ Great ! Good ! and Just! Could I but rate 
My griefs, and thy too rigid fate, 

I’d weep the world to such a strain 
As it should deluge once again. 

But since thy loud-tongu’d blood demands supplies 
More from Briarus’ hands than Argus’ eyes, 

I’le sing thy obsequies with trumpet sounds, 

And write thy epitaph with blood and wounds. 

Montkose. 

Written with the point of his sword.” 

The Marquis’s estates were confiscated, but they were restored 
to his son James (styled the Good), third marquis, who died 25th 
April, 1684. He had a son James, fourth marquis, who became 
first Duke of Montrose, to which dignity he was advanced on 
24th April, 1707. This holder of the title and estates of the 
family was not only the means of promoting the titular import¬ 
ance of the house, but was instrumental in making great additions 
to the family property by purchasing, in 1702, from the Duke of 


194 


BUCHANAN. 


Lennox, bis estate in the Lennox country, as well as many of its 
jurisdictions—among the number of which were the hereditary 
Sheriffdom of Dumbarton, the custodianship of Dumbarton Castle, 
and the jurisdiction of the regality of the Lennox. Duke James, 
after an honourable, useful life, died in London, 7tli January, 
1742. His immediate successor was Duke William, who died 
23rd September, 1790. When the Heritable Jurisdiction Aboli¬ 
tion Act of 1747 was passed, this holder of the title received as 
compensation for the hereditary offices withdrawn from him, the 
sum of £ 5,578 18s 4d. Next in the line of succession was 
another Duke James, who died December 30, 1836. He was 
followed by yet another of the same name and title, who was born 
in 1799, and died at Cannes (where he is buried), 30th December, 
1874. This duke was a most capable man, who took a deep 
interest in local as well as in Imperial affairs. At his demise, 
his eldest surviving son, Douglas Beresford Malise Ronald, K.T., 
became fifth duke. His Grace is Lord-Register of Scotland, 
Lord Lieutenant of the county of Stirling, &c. He was born 
November 7th, 1852. Married a few years ago Miss Graham of 
Netherby, and by her has issue. Her Grace is the good genius of 
the locality, more especially in the way of ministering to the wants 
of sick children, for whom she has been chiefly instrumental in 
erecting and equipping a sanatorium at Balmaha. 

THE MONTROSE HOLIDAY HOME. 

was formally opened on Saturday, 2nd May, 1891, in presence of 
a goodly company, who were invited by the Duke and Duchess of 
Montrose to witness the ceremony. The proceedings were opened 
with prayer, offered by the minister of the parish, Rev. Dr. 
Mackintosh. 

The building is in the Gothic style of architecture, stands 
within its own grounds, is two storeys in height, is finished in a 
neat but plain style, and commands a charming stretch of the 


BUCHANAN. 


195 


loch. The home contains on the ground floor a large play-room, 
with dining-room adjoining, so arranged that these apartments can 
be converted into one if needs be. There are also on the same 
floor the matron’s parlour, maid’s room, kitchen, bath-room, and 
other accommodation ; while from the play-room access is obtained 
to a large play-shed. The upper portion of the edefice yields dor¬ 
mitory accommodation for thirty children, arranged in four apart¬ 
ments, besides the matron’s bed-room, and a small room containing 
two cribs, which, if required, can be used for special cases, or for 
a sick-room. Behind the main building there are sundry out¬ 
houses. 

At the opening, there were in the home eleven girls and four 
boys enjoying its benefits. Interesting addresses were given on 
that occasion by Lord Provost Muir, of Glasgow, Professor Story, 
D.D., and J. C. White, Esq., of Overtoun. At the close of the 
proceedings the Duchess of Montrose thanked the ladies and 
gentlemen present for having come to take part in the opening 
ceremony of the Montrose Holiday Home for poor children ; and, 
on the motion of the Duke of Montrose, the Lord Provost was 
thanked for presiding. 

The home has been opened free of debt. It is intended that it 
be kept open all the year round with the exception of the months 
of January and February ; and it is arranged that the children be 
provided with clothing while in the institution. 

To her grace of Montrose the greatest credit is due for this ad¬ 
dition to the number of institutes which have for their object the 
amelioration of the condition of poor and afflicted children. 

The only other family of which I pen anything in this connec¬ 
tion is that of 

BOB ROY MACGREGOR OF INVERSNAID. 

In the reign of William III. the direct male line of the chiefs 
of the ancient, purely Celtic MacGregor sept became extinct, and 
the representation fell, by “a formal renunciation of the chiefship,” 


196 


13UCHANAN. 


into the Glengyle branch of the family, of which Rob Roy was a 
member and his nephew the chief. His own designation was that 
of Inversnaid, but he seems to have acquired a right to the 
property of Craig-Royston, a domain of rock, heath, and forest, 
situated on the upper part of the east side of Lochlomond. 

Rob Roy, like many other Highland gentlemen, was a cattle 
dealer, and to further his business he had borrowed several sums 
of money from his near neighbour the Duke of Montrose ; and, 
becoming insolvent in 1712 through heavy losses, he absconded, 
and was involved in prosecutions which nearly ruined him. 
During his absence, messengers of the law visited his house and 
shamefully abused his wife, branding her on the breast with a red 
hot poker ; and she, being a high-spirited woman, incited her 
husband, on his return, to acts of vengeance. At the same time 
she gave veiit to her feelings in a fine piece of pipe music, still 
well known by the name of “ Rob Roy’s Lament.” A nephew of 
the duke, it is reported, was leader of the agressors. At this 
period the duke contrived to get possession of Craig-Royston, ren¬ 
dering Rob landless, and inciting him to become the “ bold 
outlaw ” of song and story. For nearly thirty years—that is, till 
almost the day of his death—he levied contributions from Montrose 
and his tenants, swearing that as his grace had robbed him of his 
lands, and his minions had maltreated his wife, he would live at 
his expense, and neither want for siller, meal, maut, nor beef, as 
long as these could be obtained by force of his strong right arm 
from the estates of his enemy. 

In 1715, Rob Roy, at the head of the sept of Ciar Mohr, to 
which he belonged, took up arms for the “Chevalier;” but his 
adherence to him was half-hearted, and at the battle of Sheriffmuir 
he played a somewhat equivocal part—one of masterly inactivity, 

“For he never advanced 
From the place where lie stanced 
Till nae inair was to do there at a’, man.” 


BUCHANAN. 


197 


Notwithstanding the sort of neutrality practised by Hob Hoy 
during the progress of the rebellion of 1715, he did not escape 
punishment. He was included in the Act of attainder, and the 
house in Breadalbane which was his place of retreat was burned 
by General Lord Cadogan. But upon going with about fifty of 
his followers to Inveraray, Hob obtained favour by surrendering 
his own arms and those of his tail ” to Colonel Patrick Campbell 
of Finnah, who in return furnished Hob with letters of protection 
under his hand. Being thus in great measure secured from the 
resentment of the Government, Hob Hoy MacGregor established 
his residence at Craig-Hoyston, Lochlomond- in the midst of his 
own kinsmen, and resumed once more his private, inextinguishable 
quarrel with the Duke of Montrose. 

For some years he continued to levy black-mail from those 
whose cattle and estates he protected, and harassed sorely the 
duke and his dependants ; and although an English garrison was 
stationed at Inversnaid fort to overawe, check, or capture him, his 
address and courage saved him from ever falling into their hands 
save once, and then he made a speedy escape. 

The far-famed Hob Hoy MacGregor was confessedly the best 
swordsman of his day. His celebrity for wielding the claymore 
excited Macneil of Barra to visit him for the express purpose of 
* trying his prowess. Barra was a gentleman possessing the quali¬ 
ties that endear a chief to his clan, with the accomplishments which 
confer acceptability in polished circles. On arriving at Hob Hoy’s 
house the Macneil chieftain found he was at Buchanan attending 
a market, and thither he repaired. He met several gentlemen on 
horseback on their way home, and, accosting the nearest, begged 
to know if Hob Hoy was still at the fair. 

“ Who enquires for Hob Hoy V asked a voice, more remote. 

“ Macneil of Barra,” said the chief. 

Hob Hoy approached, announcing himself ; and after exchanging 
salutes, Barra said— 


193 


BUCHANAN. 


“ I have heard Rob Roy extolled as the best swordsman of our 
times, and I have come a long journey to prove whether he or I 
deserve that commendation.” 

“ Chieftain of Barra,” said Rob Roy, “ I never sought a quarrel 
with any man ; and if it please you to think yourself the better 
swordsman, I have no objection to your opinion. 

“ This is the language of fear,” said Barra. 

“ Who dares to speak of fear to Rob Roy MacGregor V said 
MacGregor. “ Dismount, sir, and try if I’m afraid.” 

The chivalrous encounter immediately commenced, and Rob Roy 
found Barra nearly his match ; but after much dexterous play, he 
wounded the chieftain in the sword arm, so that he was several 
months confined to Buchanan. 

The substance of what immediately follows appeared recently in 
the Glasgow Herald newspaper. The matter is very interesting on 
account of the light it throws on Rob Roy’s latter days, and also 
for the notice it gives of the hero’s lineal descendants. 

“ Robert MacGregor, after a busy and exciting life, died like 
a decent man with his affairs in order, owing no man anything, 
and with a balance on the credit side. The date of his death has 
long been a doubtful point, but the Testament clears this up. 
Gregor MacGregor, a great grandson, who lived in Hill Street, 
Garnethill, Glasgow, in 1870, in some notes which the v T riter has 
seen, stated that his ancestor died at Innerlocharigbeg, about six 
miles to the west of the Parish Church of Balquhidder, on the 
28th day of December, 1734, in the 64th year of his age, he having 
been born on the 11th day of March, 1671. On this point Rob’s 
descendant did not agree with the majority of writers, who placed 
the date of birth about 1660, a difference of about eleven years. 
All those writers agree that Rob Roy v T as an old man at the time 
of his death ; but no Highlander who led such an active and 
healthy life as he did could be considered an old man at 64. In 
January, 1703, he had married Maria (Mary) MacGregor of Comar. 


BUCHANAN. 199 

Of his recent descendants, the most noteworthy was Sir Charles 
Metcalfe MacGregor, an eminent Indian soldier, and Asiatic 
gazetteer, who died at Cairo, and who was buried at Glengyle some 
years ago under circumstances that are still fresh in the memory 
of many readers. 

The undoubted representative of Rob Roy at the present time 
is Norman Macgregor, only surviving brother of Sir Charles M. 
MacGregor, who is a member of Lloyd’s, London. Norman and Sir 
Charles are fifth in direct descent from Rob Roy, thus—Rob Roy 
was the father of Coll; Coll was the father of John, a captain in 
the GOtli Regiment of foot, now known as the King’s Royal Ride 
Corps; John was the father of James, Major-General in the Hon. 
East India Company’s service ; James was the father of Robert 
Guthrie, major in the Bengal Artillery, whose sons were the late 
Sir Charles Macgregor and Norman M‘Gregor, as above noted. 
One thing about Sir Charles was his strong personal resemblance 
to his great ancestor, particularly in that “ wond’rous length and 
-strength of arm ” celebrated by the poet. 








IgfaEl^lsa^tg^^haa^fsaElalggMMgni 


tm 


QL halter 131. 


LUSS AND ARROCHAR. 


J^IGH the fascinating margin of the Queen of Scottish Lakes, 
^ and where her ample bosom is bedecked with multitudinous 
isles, beautiful of form and richly apparelled, the kirk and kirk- 
yard of the parish are situated, on a wooded promontory a little 
to the south of the Pier of Luss. The background of the fair 
scene is composed of verdant, fertile, bosky meadows and fields, 
which are dominated by richly-wooded hills of majestic mould, cut 
up by mountain-born streams, and diversified by far-withdrawing 
glens. 


In the God’s Acre of Luss there lie all that is mortal of many 
people whose lives are well worth recording, and rescuing from 
oblivion. 

It is centuries many since this spot of ground was solemnly set 
apart for the worship of God and the burial of the dead. 
Authentic history states that, about the middle of the thirteenth 













































NEAR LUSS, LOCHLQMOND. 





















LUSS. 


203 


century, Maldorven, the third Earl of Lennox, confirmed the 
patronage of the living to Maldorven, Dean of Lennox, and also 
to his son Gillemore. At that time it appears to have been an 
independent rectory. Since that far-distant period, twenty-seven 
ministers (including the present incumbent) in succession have 
with more or less fidelity looked after the spiritual interests of the 
parishioners, and reaped the fruits of the benefice. For well nigh 
six hundred years, 

LUSS KIRK AND ITS ADJACENT GRAVEYARD 

have been used for the purposes for which they were set apart, so 
that one feels as if he stood there on specially holy ground, con¬ 
straining him to think, if not to utter, “ How awful is this place.” 
The church which immediately preceded the present one (erected 
a few years ago by the present Sir James Colquhoun, Bart.), was 
a plain small edefice, of date 1771 ; it had, however, some good 
architectural features, which are described further on. 

From the Deformation period down to about the end of the 
second decade of this century, the great bulk of us Scotch people 
seemed to have lost all taste in regard to the style of house to 
raise to the honour and glory of God, wherein He might be 
worshipped acceptably and with godly fear. The churches built 
during that long period were, as a rule, hideously ugly, and the 
services of God’s house bald in the extreme. The worshippers, 
for the most part, paid no more outward reverence to the place 
where prayer was wont to be made than they would do to a 
change house, wherein they went to take a dram. 

The surrounding churchyards, during that long time, were 
almost invariably given up to the dominion of the rankest of grass 
and vile weeds of every description. 

How, thank God, we have come to a better frame of mind in 
regard to our mode of worship, the condition of the burial places 
of our dead, and the style of buildings we erect to the honour and 


204 


LUSS. 


glory of God. These are in this era not only holy hut beautiful 
houses, which make you feel as you stand within their hallowed 
courts that they are none other than houses of God, and veritable 
gates of heaven. 

My opinion is, that in this age, on the whole, we, in the good 
providence of the Almighty, are in a happier condition than any 
of our fathers were in since the apple-eating episode in the 
Adamic period “ when Auld Clootie gie’d this infant world a 
shog maist ruined a’/’ 

This short divergence over, I now hark back on matters apper¬ 
taining to Luss Kirk and kirkyard. 

Tradition affirms that, so early as the sixth century, Luss was 
the seat of a Christian church. A cairn of stones, about a-mile- 
and-a-half south of the village, and known as Carn-ma-Cheasoig, 
is pointed out as the place of the martyrdom of Saint Kessog or 
MacKessog, the tutelary saint of the parish. This event is said to 
have taken place a.d. 520. The Saint is supposed to have been 
buried in the churchyard of Luss; but there is no document 
relating to the church there of a date earlier than the thirteenth 
century, though there can be no doubt that it was in existence 
many years prior to that period. 

Another tradition has it that St. Ivessock was the Patron Saint 
of Scotland before St. Andrew was adopted as such. St. Ivessock 
having been martyred in a foreign land, his body was embalmed 
in sweet herbs and brought for interment to the church of his 
native place. The herbs ( L-a-s in Gaelic) germinated, and gave 
name to the parish. King Robert Bruce granted to the Kirk of 
Luss (1313) a sanctuary girth of three miles. 

At Rossdhu, the residence of the Chief of Colquhoun, a 
chapel was founded so early as 1107. A portion of the 
sacred building still remains, and is used as the family bury¬ 
ing place. Within it is a rude effigy, said to be of Saint 
Kessog. 


LUSS. 


205 


In the Glen of Loss, near Glenmollochan, an earth-covered 
ruin was long popularly known as “ The Chapel.” On 
breaking into it some years ago, for stones with which to build a 
farm steading in the neighbourhood, an arched vault, with narrow 
lancet openings, was discovered, and within were found a font, 
cross, and other ecclesiastical garniture. The late Sir James 
Colquhoun, with commendable veneration, enclosed the site of the 
ancient “Chapel’ 1 of St. Michael’s, of date end of 16th century, 
with an iron railing, the effect of which is not unlike that of a 
railed-in burial-place, and this is in nowise lessened by the “ head¬ 
stone ’’-like memorial stone, which on its one side bears an 
inscription in Gaelic, and on its other a translation into Latin. 
There is a tradition that this glen was at one time a place of con¬ 
siderable population. I append a translation of the inscription 
which is on the stone :—• 

St. Michael’s Chapel. 

James, Laird of Colquhoun and Luss, caused this monument to be erected 
to the memory of a bye-gone piety, and of those psalms formerly sung to • 
the honour of God (in this place), now, alas, completely dilapidated. 

In Luss churchyard there is a slight remain of an ancient 
ecclesiastical structure, and I have seen taken from recently dug 
graves richly moulded bases of pillars of the early English period 
of Gothic architecture. Perhaps the style of these architectural 
relics may be accounted for by the fact that “ the parish, previous 
to the Reformation, was a rectory, and between 1429 and that 
epoch was a prebend of the Cathedral of Glasgow.” “A chapel, 
subordinate to the parish church, anciently stood on the lands of 
Buchanan.” “ There are in the churchyard several stone coffins 
of considerable antiquity. Each consists of one stone with a 
stone cover. There is no inscription upon any of them,” nor, so 
far as I am aware, have they any tradition. 

The writer of a book entitled “ Characteristics of Old Church 
Architecture, etc., in the Mainland and Western Islands of Scot* 


206 


LUSS. 


land” (Edinburgh : Edmonstone & Douglas, 1861), says:— 
“Sometimes these lids of stone coffins (which, however, when 
found lying about by themselves, may in some instances have 
been merely grave-stones), are of curved or semi-eliptical shape, 
and carved with a sort of squamous ornament in horizontal lines, 
each overlapping the other, as at Abercorn, Luss, Govan on the 
Clyde, and until lately, Aldcamus in Berwickshire.” 

The churchyard, like most others in the country of great age, con¬ 
tains many old-fashioned grave-stones “with uncouth rhymes and 
shapeless sculpture deck’d ”; but the majority of these possess no 
general interest except for their age, style of design, and inscription. 
Several others—of date perhaps more than half-a-century ago— 
must have been somewhat costly; they are in good taste, and the 
inscriptions are in excellently designed and executed “script.” 
Others are merely a slab of slate from the neighbouring 
quarries, polished on the surface, with the letters cut by some 
native “genius,” with as “native” an instrument. 

There is one monument for which a visitor will not fail to look, 
and which, from its peculiar design, he will have little difficulty 
in finding :— 

In memory of Johx Stuart, D.D.F R.S., born in Killin 1743; suc¬ 
cessively minister of Arroquhar, Weem, and Luss, whose genuine piety and 
amiable temper endeared him to his family and flock ; while his profound 
and varied knowledge, devoted to the noble object of translating the 
Holy Scriptures into his native language (Gaelic) under the sanction of the 
Church of Scotland, gained for him universal respect. His useful life was 
closed by a peaceful death, May 24, 1821. Filins moereus hoc patri caris- 
simo momememtum posuit. 

Dr. Stuart was otherwise distinguished than as a translator— 
more especially as a botanist; and under the thatched roof of the 
manse noteworthy tourists and others were frequently entertained 
with a simple but unfeigned hospitality. 

Dr. Stuart’s son, Joseph, became minister of Kingarth. Over 
his grave there was planted a silex Stuarti, so called from having 


luss. 207 

been discovered by his father. A daughter was married to the 
late Captain Brown of the Loch Lomond steamboats. 

“ The celebrated John MacLaurin, known generally in connec¬ 
tion only with his subsequent ministry in Glasgow,” was also a 
minister of Luss. 

The tombstone, however, which in Luss Church-yard will receive 
the chief attention of the antiquary, is one said to be in memory 
of a Baroness MacAuslan—a lady whose husband distinguished 
himself at the seige of Tournay. She having died in France, her 
body was brought to Scotland, and buried in Luss Churchyard. 
In accordance with the fashion of the period, her coffin was 
strewn with flowers, and particularly with the Jleur-de-lys —some 
of which grew to the surface of her grave, and became miracu¬ 
lously efficacious in staying a pestilence then raging throughout 
the country.” From this special flower some have derived the 
name “ Luss ; ” others from the Gaelic L-u-s, signifying a plant. 
This stone (at least that much of it which is above ground) may 
be briefly described as a recumbent monolith of a “ sowbackit ” 
outline, the sides chased rather than carved with an arcade of 
interlacing Norman arches, and the ridge with a sort of squamous 
ornament, both of which, it is said, were at one time inlaid with 
gilding. This stone is specially mentioned in a standard work on 
ancient Scottish monuments, and a very fine water-colour drawing 
was made of it by the late A. D. Robertson, of Glasgow. 

The MacAuslans still bury in this portion of the churchyard, 
and the family, a sept of Buchanan, has been otherwise associated 
with Luss ; as, for instance, “ the only daughter of the late Baron 
MacAuslan, after the death of her husband, selling her interest to 
Sir Humphrey Oolquhoun, Bart., of Luss, her superior; and the an¬ 
cestors of the principal families of MacAuslan in the counties of 
Tyrone, Derry, and Down in Ireland, going out of the parish of 
Luss to that kingdom in the latter part of the reign of James VI.” 

“ Glen Luce in Wigtownshire derives its name from Valina 


208 


LUSS. 


lucis, the valley of light,” a derivation which may be equally well 
applied to Luss upon Loch Lomond, either in conformity with it. 
physical peculiarities—a valley laying its bosom fully open to the 
play of the day-beams, or in harmony with the results which 
attended the teachings of the early Christian missionaries 
Another translation of L-u-s is a hero. 

Within the last few years, while a grave was being dug, a 
Gothic cross, four or five feet in height, was discovered. It now 
stands against the ruin of the old church—in which ruin I ought 
to mention there is an old slab inscribed to the memory of some 
long since deceased clergyman or schoolmaster. 

Near to this ruin—which is close by Dr. Stuart’s monument— 
Sir James Colquhoun erected a little cenotaph in memory of his 
father, and those who with him were drowned in returning from 
deer shooting in Inch Lonaig. 

Some of the old inscriptions are, as might be expected, some¬ 
what quaint in their mode of spelling and expressing ; and a few 
of those of fully fifty years ago are remarkable for their propriety 
and elegance of diction ; there are, however, not many “ epitaphs 
of impressing individuality, nevertheless the following four lines 
had a place (and praise) in an article on tombstone inscriptions 
which not long ago appeared in a London magazine :— 

Could he disclose, who rests below, 

The things beyond the grave that lie, 

We more should learn than now we know, 

But know no better how to die. 

The burial place of John Walker, the local poet, is covered by 
a “ bowster stane ” of polished slate, into which are cut these 
verses on the death of a favourite child :— 

’Twas when the primrose hail’d the infant year, 

When all was eye, and all was list’ning ear, 

My sweet rosebud reclined his weary head, 

And here he lies among the silent dead. 


LUSS. 


209 


Uncertain life, how transient is thy show ! 

How high thy projects, and thy end how low ! 

This day in health, a country’s pride and boast— 

Perhaps to-morrow mingling with the dust. 

Ge domhain dorch an leabd ’nuaigh 
Na bitheadh gruaim air creidmheach beo ; 

Tha ’n hi a teaclid an toirear buaidh, 

’Scha mhaslaich truailleaclid sinn nis mo. 

( Thus translated.) 

Tho’ dark and dismal is the grave, 

Let faith dispel the gloom ; 

We yet shall vanquish all our foes, 

And triumph o’er the tomb. 

John Walker was survived by a daughter, Mary, who is also in¬ 
terred in Luss kirkyard. She was a remarkable woman. She 
devoured literature, and to some good purpose. She had a capital 
memory, a vigorous understanding, and great lucidity of speech, 
which enabled her to convey to others her knowledge and 
thoughts. I believe she read the whole of the Encyclopaedia 
Brittanica. 

John Walker, who farmed the hill of Camstradden, Luss, was 
author of “Poems in English, Scotch, and Gaelic, on various 
subjects;” published by Mr Ogle, Glasgow, in 1817. The poet 
had an intimate knowledge of the Gaelic language, and he 
assisted greatly the Hev. Dr Stuart, minister of Luss, in trans¬ 
lating the Bible into that tongue, much of the work being done 
in the home of the poet. Sir David Wilkie, the eminent painter, 
often visited “The Hill,” and one of his finest works, comprising a 
baby in a cradle, and a collie dog watching it, was painted there. 
John Walker’s poems were composed at intervals during thirty 
years, and show considerable diversity in character and merit. 

I do not know if it be peculiar to Luss, to country, to High¬ 
land, or to old churchyards, it is nevertheless worthy of observa¬ 
tion, those of one name or clan having their burying-place in one 




210 


LUSS. 


particular corner ; thus in Luss, the Colquhouns and Grants bury 
to the east of the church, the Walkers to the south, the MacAus- 
lans and the MacLellans to the west. It may have resulted 
possibly from the original family, or from that “ clannishness ” 
which in the Scots may be a ruling passion even in death. 

Almost all north of the church appears to be of a comparatively 
recent date. In beauty it is vastly inferior to the eastern, and 
especially the southern parts. Than this latter there can scarcely 
be a more beautiful last resting-place, realising to the letter the 
description of the poet:— 

“ Beneath this yew 
It is a lovely spot ! The sultry sun, 

From his meridian height, endeavours vainly 
To pierce the shadowy foliage, while the zephyr 
Comes wafting gently o’er the rippling stream. 

’Tis a nook 

Most pleasant. Such a one perchance, did Gray 
Frequent, as with a vagrant muse he wanton’d.” 

This “ nook most pleasant” may be prosaically described as rising 
by a pretty steep grass-grown bank from the river Luss, and 
guarded, so to speak, by a number of magnificent elms and lindens 
- -shading from the sun and shielding from the storm-—with a 
solitary yew advancing towards the church. Seen from the lake 
or the glebe, the church and this noble screen of trees form one 
of the most attractive features in a landscape which for varied 
beauty can be rarely rivalled. 

The “holy bell,” by which many have “been knolled to church,” 
and many to their last narrow homes, was rung and swung in one 
of those circling trees until about thirty years ago, when it was re¬ 
moved to the less romantic and “ auld warl,” but perhaps more 
appropriate position, the church’s belfry. It was wont to be 
jocularly said, in an adjoining parish, that “ on Sabbath the 
Luss kirk bell never commenced to ring until Sir James’ carriage 


LUSS. 


211 


was in sight.” This was doubtless true, but the reason is a very 
commonplace one—the remarkable punctually of Sir James, 
although there are some folks nearer home who were sometimes 
wicked enough to attach to the fact a very different, but, I believe, 
wholly groundless signification. 

Inch-do-Mhannach (“ the Monk’s Island), about a mile from 
Luss, is said to have been the place of residence of Saint Kessog, 
and on it, some years ago, several stones of ancient workmanship 
were discovered, probably the fragment of a monastery or other 
religious edefice. I have been told that at an early period a bell 
was suspended on Tom-nan-clag (the height of bells), the highest 
eminence on the island, which, being rung, summoned to divine 
service the adjacent parishes of Luss, Inch-Cailleach, and Kil- 
maronock. The name Tom-nan-clag certainly supports the tradition.” 

Although Auchenheglish (the field of the church) is not in 
Luss parish, perhaps it may be mentioned that at one time there 
were there a kirk and kirkyard, in which kirkyard there is said 
to have been at least one interment from Luss. Over the ruins 
of the kirk, in many fathoms deep, and at a considerable distance 
from the main land, buried in Lochlomond, a “perch ” or cross, 
made of iron, has been erected. When the present mansion was 
being built, about five-and-twenty years ago, one entire stone 
coffin, and the remains of four or five bodies in seperate graves, 
but with no indication of coffins of wood or stone, were discovered. 
At that time there could be traced the remains of a turf dyke 
enclosing the graveyard. These particulars were got from Mr 
Hodston, of the Office of Public Works, Glasgow, who was clerk of 
works at the building of Auchenheglish house. Mr Hodston tells 
that while there a very old man informed him of a funeral to 
this old burying-ground of an uncoffined body from Luss, which 
was carried on a door. 

As has been already stated a few pages back, the church of Luss 
immediately prior to the present one was built in 1771, 


212 


LUSS. 


and had accommodation for about five hundred worshippers. 
Mostly all guide books that I have seen speak of it as being 
“ excellent in its masonry ;” but it was more : in its elevation 
towards the south—and, strange to say, where it was best seen— 
it had even architectural character. Its plan was oblong, with 
an “ aisle ” towards the north projecting at a right angle. 
Opposite to this “ aisle,” as it was called, was the pulpit, and in 
the upper part of it was the Colquhoun of Luss “ gallery.” On 
the right of the pulpit was the Camstraddan gallery, and on the 
left the Bannachra. (When the church was built there were 
three heritors in the parish—the lairds of Luss, Camstraddan, 
and Bannachra ; now there are two—of Luss and Bannachra.) ’ 
The “Luss” gallery occupied the whole area of the aisle, and 
was reached by an outside stair. In front was a row of old- 
fashioned chairs, and behind there must have been some accommo¬ 
dation for semi-circling the fireside, to which the gallery’s 
occupants retired, at least during the sermon. In front of this 
gallery was hung three hatchments, and on each side of the wall 
on the same plane with it, two, of members of the Luss family; 
while beneath the Camstraddan gallery was a marble monument 
in the wall of some member of the Colquliouns of Camstraddan. 
In front of the pulpit, and beneath the “ table ” seats, were two 
inscribed slabs, monuments of ministers long since departed. 
These are now to be seen outside the walls of the present church. 
On the external face of one of the walls of the old church was a 
rudely sculptured memorial stone of the “ Lairds of Arrochwar,” 
with a skull, cross-bones, hour-glass, and pick and shovel on it, 
and bearing date, 1612. The church within was plain, but 
comfortable. 

The new church, built a few years ago by the present chief of 
Colquhoun, as a memorial to his father, who lost his life in Dec., 
1875, while returning from Inch-Lonaig, is of Gothic architecture, 
is somewhat ornate, and is suggestive of being a model of a larger 


LUSS, 


213 


and more imposing edefice. The church is adorned by several 
stained glass windows, inserted by the heritors, the minister, the 
congregation, and others. The new building has given opportunity 
for an innovation—the plate at the kirk door. In the old, the 
“ collection ” was made by “ the ladle,” Sir James’s dole excepted, 
which was dropped into a special plate placed upon a step about 
midway up his outside stair. The “ladle,” which seemed strange 
to the casual visitor, has become the instrument of collecting in 
“ fashionable ” town churches. Another thins: that caught the 
attention of strangers was the special prayer for the family of 
Colquhoun. With one minister it was in this wise :—“ Bless this 
parish and congregation, from the family which in the wise 
arrangements of Thy providence Thou hast placed at the head of 
it, to the very poorest individual;” with one of his successors— 
“ the family of chief distinction, and Thy servant, the head 
thereof.” 

The church-yard has been new-trimmed, several pretentious 
tombstones have been erected, and consequently there is less for 
the lover of the picturesque and the indulger of the sentimental. 
It is enclosed by a handsome wall, in which are two lychgates—• 
one towards the north, the other towards the west—specialities 
hitherto uncommon in Scottish kirkyards. On each is an appropri¬ 
ate passage of Scripture. 

The circumstances of “ the preachings ” were presumably much 
the same in Luss down to fully fifty years ago as they were in 
other country churches. On “ the Sacrament ” Sabbath a collec¬ 
tion plate, covered with white linen, stood, with an elder beside it, 
on each side of the churchyard gateway. The sacrament was 
dispensed at a succession of “ tables ”—the tables extending the 
whole length of the church—the “elements” being bestowed by 
the officiating clergyman right and left from the centre, in front 
of the pulpit. While the communicants were entering and leaving 
the table-seats the hundred-and-third psalm was sung to the tune of 


214 


LUSS. 


Coleshill, “ the line ” being “ read ” by the precentor in a sort of 
monotonous chant, as simple as it was solemn. The “ Sacrament ” 
was then dispensed only once a year, in summer, and through the 
open doors was heard the gentle ripple of the leaves, causing them 
to cast flickering and fitful shadows upon the walls, like those brief 
cloudlets of the world that sometimes partially overshadow even 
the Christian’s home; and the soft, low gurgling of the stream 
rolling onward to the ocean, like the passing to eternity, ever 
generation after generation, of those whose last narrow homes it 
sweeps past as unheedingly as does the living world without, that 
lives as carelessly as if it were to live for ever. Also occasionally 
would be heard the distant singing of the psalms by those who 
were engaged in open-air worship, or, as it was popularly called, 
the “ tent preaching ”—the minister occupying a sort of covered 
rostrum, and his listeners sitting chiefly on the “ bowster stanes.” 
Many ministers were required at a country sacrament at that time 
-—one, perhaps two, to preach on the “ Fast ” day ; one on Satur¬ 
day, the “ preparation ” day ; several to “ serve ” the succession 
of tables; one to preach on Sabbath evening, and another on 
Monday, the “thanksgiving” day; and as these were generally the 
clergymen of the neighbouring parishes, and as the churches of those 
who officiated on Sabbath were necessarily closed, many of their 
congregations as necessarily followed them, and so increased the 
congregation that gathered about “ the tent.” Members of families 
came great distances to be at home at the Sacrament time, and 
they also added to the number. Although not on sacramental 
occasions, Dr. Chalmers and Dr. Candlish preached in Luss. Un¬ 
til Dr Stuart’s death, a Gaelic sermon was regularly preached in 
Luss Parish Church. 

Two or three years ago, an article appeared in (I think) the 
Cornhill Magazine on Highland Funerals, and the first custom 
mentioned was that of Luss. I regret that I did not copy the 
article. Invitation to a funeral was given in this fashion ;—. 


LUSS. 


215 


Say, two of the more intelligent boys of the village, or other parts 
of the parish, as the case might be, went from house to house ancl 
cried at the door, “ Warning here to attend the funeral of A. B., 
on Thursday first, at twelve o’clock” (as name and times might be). 
Of course, each boy had his defined district. In short distances, 
the coffin was generally borne on “spokes,” in longer, sometimes 
on a cart, but is now commonly on a hearse. Occasionally, how¬ 
ever, the coffin was carried a long distance on spokes, and followed 
by a walking procession, the effect of which was solemn and 
impressive. A few years ago there was a funeral in which the 
chief mourner walked in front of the carried coffin. At the time 
of which I write, the church bell was begun to be rung when 
the funeral procession came in sight. It is now tolled. At the 
present time, the funeral service is sometimes in the open air. 
Formerly, and till very recent date, part of the service was a 
service of “funeral biscuit” and wine, with, sometimes, whisky; 
and it was customary for the grave-digger, immediately after the 
grave had been filled up and covered, to invite the company to 
one or other of the inns, to partake of somewhat similar hospi¬ 
tality. Funeral parties brought by boat are not common ; there 
is one, however, about which there is a special interest, that of 
old Robert Colquhoun, Sir James Colquhoun’s deer-keeper in 
Inch Lonaig. The late Sir James is supposed to have written 
the following paragraph:—In May, 1843, “ died on this island, 
in the house in which he was born, nearly a century before, 
Robert Colquhoun. When seven years old, he was taken into 
the service of Sir James and Lady Helen Colquhoun, and for the 
last few years of his life, it used to be his proudest boast, that he had 
served four of the chieftains of Colquhoun, his fealty descending 
unimpaired from sire to son. When the suns and snows of 
seventy years had rendered him less able for active duty, he 
requested to be allowed to end his days in the rugged and roman¬ 
tic island of his birth. The funeral of the old man, sublime in 


216 


LUSS. 


its very simplicity, was truly characteristic of himself—the little fleet 
of boats, all abreast, keeping solemn time with their oars on their 
way to the village of Luss, where, surrounded by the mountains 
he so often climbed, quietly reposes this faithful servant of the 
chiefs of Colquhoun.” The late chief, with a no less peculiar 
respect for the worthy character of the venerable deer-keeper than 
an exercise of feudal privilege, laid his head in the grave. 

I am not aware of the lych-gates ever having been used for their 
legitimate purpose. At the last funeral which I heard of there, 
which was three or four years ago, there was a short religious 
service at the grave, but this practice is, I believe, not general. 
At the time of the “ resurrectionists,” there was a tent—an ugly 
square building—placed at the churchyard gate, in which, night- 
about, parishioners, two in number, kept watch, and which eyesore 
was retained in its place long after there was any necessity for it. 
In 1834, there was some suspicion that a body had been illegally 
exhumed, but, upon examination, it was found that the suspicion 
was unfounded. 

To give my readers an idea regarding the cost of and the cus¬ 
toms observable at funerals sixty-five years ago, I submit the 
following, copied from documents in the hands of a public 

functionary in Dumbarton :—Received from A-L-, £1 

10s, being the price of the coffin of G-B-, deceased. To 

funeral charges at Renton for J-B-, whisky, four bottles, 

12s ; rum, two bottles, 7s ; wine, four bottles, and half-mutchkin, 
12s 3d—in all, <£1 11s 3d. The above was incurred at coffining 
and funeral. The sum of 5s was paid to one Walter M‘Allaster, 
for conveying the corps to Luss for interment. The funeral 
charges incurred at Luss, the place of sepulture, were—bread, 2s ; 
whisky, 14s—16s in all, reminding one of Jack FalstafFs “but 
one half-penny-worth of bread to this intolerable deal of sack.” 
A Robert M‘Farlane, church officer of Luss, receipts an account 
for the grave-digging, 2s 6d; mort-cloth, 7s; journey to Renton 


LUSS. 


217 


with the same, 3s ; for lifting the gravestone, 2s—14s 6cl in all. 
The sum disbursed over the head of the burying of the deceased 
party, who only left sufficient effects to barely pay the burial ex¬ 
penses, was the sum of <£4 1 Is 9d, of which there was disbursed 
for refreshments—principally whisky—£2 7s 3d. 

Having finished my story of the kirk and kirkyard of Luss, I 
will relate what I know of its notable people and historic families. 
As has been my wont, precedence is given to the clergy. 

THE REV. DUNCAN CAMPBELL, 

minister of Luss, was born in Edinburgh, in 1821, and took his 
Course of Arts and Divinity at its University. He was licensed 
by the Presbytery of the same city, in 1835 ; was ordained 
minister of Fossoway and Tullichbole in 1846, and inducted 
minister of Luss Parish in the year 1852. During his—almost 
forty five years—ministry in the parish, he has been a power for 
good in diverse ways, and has secured the entire confidence of the 
parishioners. 

The only other minister of the Gospel in the parish is the 

REV. THOMAS E. JUBB, F.C. MINISTER. 

This divine was born at Earlsheaton, Dewsbury,. Yorkshire, in 
1854. When he was nine years of age, his parents removed to 
Glasgow, where he was educated, first at a private academy, and 
afterwards at the High School. Mr Jubb studied and graduated 
at the University of Glasgow, and proceeded in due course to the 
Church College. On receiving license in 1882, he acted for some 
months as locum tenens in the West Free Church, Rothesay, after 
which he became assistant to the late Rev. David Purves, Maxwell- 
town, Dumfries. On the retirement of the Rev. Eeil Stewart in 
October, 1883, he was ordained minister of LusS Free Church, 
where his services are highly appreciated by an attached people. 
The church, which is beautifully situated on the loch side, was 

Q 


218 


luss. 


completely renovated and partially endowed by the late William 
Colquhoun, Esq., Rossdhu. 

LORD ORMIDALE. 

This eminent man (Robert M‘Farlane) was born near Luss at 
the beginning of this century. His father was a farmer on the 
estate of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Mr Macfarlane’s appren¬ 
ticeship to the law was served in the office of the late Mr James 
Greig of ’Eccles, W.S., a well-known and highly distinguished 
Edinburgh conveyancer. Robert Macfarlane, who in course of 
time also became a writer to the signet, married a daughter of 
his apprentice master, and continued to carry on business as a 
W.S. for some years ; then he passed as Advocate and became a 
most successful Counsel. Mr Macfarlane was for some years 
Sheriff of Renfrew. Afterwards he was raised to the bench, and 
assumed the title of Lord Ormidale. After a distinguished career, 
he died on 3rd Nov., 1880, aged 79, and is interred in Warris- 
ton Cemetery, Edinburgh. (His son, George L., is a member of 
the Faculty of Advocates.) His lordship was a Deputy-Lieu¬ 
tenant of Dumbartonshire. Everything relating to the old 
village of Luss, its environments and people, were very dear to 
the deceased senator of the College of Justice, and he took great 
delight in revisiting the scenes of his happy boyhood. While 
that was the case, yet his sympathies were not confined to that 
quarter—they extended to all matters affecting the general 
interests of the whole county of Dumbarton, and any literary 
works treating thereof were eagerly acquired by him. 

There are a few other Luss men who have, in their several 
walks in life, achieved considerable distinction. For instance, 
there are the brothers Thomas and John Ethelbert Gildard, now 
in the service of the Corporation of Glasgow, the former in the 
Office of Public Works, and the latter in the office of the Water 
Trust. They are both men of culture, and have earned praise 


LUSS. 


219 


from the judicious by their pens and otherwise. In addition to 
these, there are Duncan M‘Nicol, now of Rothesay, the Cabman 
Poet, who sings so sweetly ; and last of all to be mentioned in this 
connection are the brothers James and Donald MacGregor, of 
hotel-keeping fame. The first mentioned deceased a good many 
years ago, but the last named is still with us, hale, hearty, and 
eminently prosperous. 

I now proceed to notice briefly two of the historic families of 
the parish, the first in importance being 

THE COLQUHOUNS OF COLQUIIOUN AND LUSS. 

On a mound near the margin of Lochlomond, about two miles 
south of Luss, and about fifty yards to the north-west of Rossdhu 
House, there stand the ruins of an ancient chapel which seems to 
have originally formed a part of the old castle of Rossdhu. A 
small portion of the grey walls of this ancient residence is still to 
be seen a little to the east of the time-battered, centuries-old 
religious fane. Nothing now remains of this at-one-time goodly 
edefice but the ivy-covered walls, within whose cold shade many 
members of the Colquhoun family lie in the dust of death. 

The place of sepulture of the Colquhouns of Colquhoun and 
Luss is almost entirely hid from view by a large number of yew 
trees of noble proportions, one of which, standing at the entrance 
door, was supposed by the recently deceased Sir James Colquhoun, 
eleventh baronet, to have been planted in the twelfth century. 
There used to be inside the chapel an old baptismal font. It has 
been removed to the new chapel at Rossdhu House, but there is 
still to be seen within the walls of the old chapel a large carved 
stone effigy of an ecclesiastic, believed te be that of Saint Kessog, 
the patron saint of Luss. 

In very far-back times the chiefs of the Colquhouns had their 
place of sepulture in the crypt of Glasgow Cathedral, near the 
middle of the south wall; and as the masonry over their grave is 


220 


LUSS. 


both high and sculptured, their last resting-place is not hard to 
find, despite the dim, religious light which obtains in the place 
even at the noon of day In times less remote, tradition has it 
that the kirkyards of Dumbarton and Kilpatrick were employed 
by the family as places of burial. 

Within the confines of the venerable Chapel of St. Mary, Ross- 
dhu, there lie the following members of the Colquhoun family, 
which rose to distinction in tne reign of Alexander II. Sir 
Robert, the great-grandson of the founder, Umphredus, married 
the heiress of Luss, and from them the present Sir James is nine¬ 
teenth in descent :— 

Sir Humphrey Colquhoun, died 1718, aged about 47 years. He 
was one of the representatives for Dumbartonshire in the last 
Scottish Parliament, and a strenuous opponent of the Union. 
Through his only child, Anne, the Luss estates were carried into 
the possession of James Grant of Phiscardine, whom she married. 
He assumed the name and arms of Sir James Colquhoun of Luss. 

Sir James Colquhoun, died on 16th November, 1786, aged 72 
years. Sir James was one of the younger sons of the above- 
noticed marriage. His elder brothers having in succession sue- 
ceeded to the Grant estate, the Luss estate devolved upon him 
according to Sir Humphrey’s will. 

Lady Helen (Sutherland) Colquhoun died on 7th January, 1791, 
aged 73 years. The town of Helensburgh was named after this 
estimable lady. 

Sir James Colquhoun, died on 23rd April, 1805, aged about 64. 
This baronet was Sheriff-Depute of Dumbartonshire, and Princi¬ 
pal Clerk of the Court of Session. 

Mary (Falconer), Lady Colquhoun, died on 12th April, 1833, 
age unknown. 

Sir James Colquhoun, died on 3rd February, 1836, aged 62. 
Elected representative for Dumbartonshire in the House of 
Commons in 1S02. 



SAINT MAC KESSOC AS FOUND IN HIS CAIRN 










LUSS. 


221 


. Janet Sinclair, Lady Colqulioun, died on 21st October, 1846, 
aged 66. The praise of the Good Lady Colqulioun is in all the 
places where God-likeness is held in reverence. 

Jane Abercromby, Lady Colqulioun, died on May 3rd, 1844, 
aged 23. She was wife of the late and mother of the present 
Sir James. 

Sarah Maitland Colqulioun, died on the 28th January, 1865, 
aged 62 years. She was daughter of Sir James and Janet Sinclair, 
Lady Colqulioun. 

Sir James Colqulioun died on 18th December, 1873, aged 69. 
The lamented deceased was for years Member of Parliament for 
and Lord Lieu tenant of the County, and justly esteemed for hon¬ 
ourable Christian conduct by all ranks and conditions of men. 
He was drowned in LochloniOnd while returning from deer shoot¬ 
ing on Inch Lonaig. 

William Colqulioun, youngest brother of above, died in March, 

1884, aged 77 years. He died a bachelor. The deceased was 

closely identified with the political, social and religious life of 

Dumbartonshire. He seceded in 1843 from the church of his 
* 

fathers, and became a great stoop of the Free Church. 

The following inscription in Latin was placed on the chapel 
walls by the late Sir James, eleventh baronet of Colqulioun and 
Luss. It was composed by John Colqulioun, Sheriff of the county 
of Dumbarton, grand uncle of the present Sir Janies. 

Translation . 

“ In memory of his ancestors of the family of Colqulioun, whose hones 
rest here, this Monument was erected by James, Laird of Colqulioun 
and Luss, in the year of Grace, 1839. ‘ By Him who overcame death and 

rose again, we are taught that w'e too shall again take.flesh and bone.’ ” 

The original family property of Colqulioun, whence they took 
their name, which lay to the eastward of Dumbarton, has long ago 
passed into other hands, saving some kind of superiority still held 
by them over the lands in which for centuries they held almost 
sovereign sway, 


/ 


9 •) 9 


LUSS. 


JOHN COLQUHOUN. 

Although the remains of John Colquhoun—author of “The 
Moor and the Loch,” ancl other works—do not lie in the 
venerable chapel of Rossdhu, along with those of his kinsfolk, 
yet, on account of his being a member of the historic house of 
Colquhoun and Luss, and a notable Lochlomond man, I here give 
a short sketch of his life. He was born in 1805. AA 7 as second son of 
Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., his mother being the “good” Lady 
Colquhoun. His boyhood was spent on the banks of Lochlomond, 
“ ’mid scenes of nature’s wildest grandeurbut each season he 
w'as sent to Edinburgh for the futherance of his education at its 
High School. Ultimately, he and his elder brother, James, w r ere 
sent to AVinteringham School, Lincolnshire, and from thence to 
Edinburgh University. 

AVhen this course of education was over, John Colquhoun 
joined the 33rd Regiment, the “Duke’s Own/’ exchanging ere 
long to the 4th (Royal Irish) Dragoon Guards, and it was while 
his regiment was quartered at York that he became “a good 
soldier of the cross ” and a “ Christian sportsman.” 

Before many years v 7 ere over he sold out of 4th Dragoon 
Guards, and married Frances Sara, fourth daughter of E. Fuller 
Maitland, of Park Place and Stansted Hall, who w r as in all respects 
worthy of her husband. Four sons and five daughters v T ere born 
to them, all spared to grow up to manhood and womanhood, and 
knit together in the bonds of love and mutual esteem. 

For thirty years he held religious meetings in the Grass- 
market of Edinburgh. As a sportsman and a writer on sporting 
subjects he had few equals. After an illness of five weeks, he 
passed in perfect peace to his rest, on 27tli May, 1885. 

The day before he died, John Colquhoun “ saw a vision 
Heaven opened ! and he beheld his wife within its sacred enclo¬ 
sure, arrayed in Robes of Righteousness, and most beautiful to 
behold because of the celestial radiancy which streamed from her 


LUSS. 


223 


fair countenance, and in an ecstacy lie uttered her name. Next 
day, which was the eighth anniversary of his wife’s death, he 
entered into the rest that remaineth for the people of God. 

All through his illness the “ Christian sportsman’s ” mind was 
kept by Divine Grace in perfect peace. He had the assurance 
of the Holy Spirit witnessing with his spirit that he had passed 
from death to life, and that therefore nothing could seperate him 
from the love of Christ. At eventide, with him it was light; 
death for him had no terrors. Shortly before he quitted his 
earthly tabernacle his daughter, Miss Colquhoun, observed him 
most earnestly looking at his hands, and asked the reason. He 
replied to her in these terms :—“ I sometimes think I should 
like to have been crucified to show my love to the Saviour.” 

Early in John Calquhoun’s married life he dedicated himself 
solemnly to the service of the Lord in these terms :—“ With the 
help of the Holy Spirit I engage to dedicate myself to the service 
of the Lord, and to try, as far as I can, to do His will towards 
God and towards my neighbour; to watch the first approach of 
sin in my heart, and to pray for the Spirit’s aid and influence 
against it; to keep my heart with all diligence ; to shirk no duty, 
however irksome or unpleasant, if I am convinced that it is laid 
upon me for the glory of God, or for the good of my fellowmen ; 
and as I can do nothing of myself, not even think a good Oiought , 
I now beseech my blessed Lord and Saviour’s intercession to help 
my infirmities.” This soldier of the Cross was enabled by God's 
Grace to quit him like a man and be strong. 

I have now to say a few words regarding the M‘Auslane family, 
for long a notable one in the parish of Luss. 

THE M‘aUSLANE FAMILY. 

Among the families which from of old time were connected 
with the district of the Lennox is that of MtAuslane, which is 
variously spelt—by some, as above printed, by others without 


224 


LUSS. 


the final e, and by not a few with a final d. It is on record that 
M‘Auslane was the ancient surname of the family of Buchanan, 
and to the same stock likewise belong the M‘Millans, and M‘Col- 
mans or M‘Calmans. At first the name w T as spelt MacAuselan, 
meaning son of Auselan, or rather Anselan, the first ancestor 
being Buey Anselan, meaning the yellow-haired Anselan. He 
w T as son to O’Kyan, provincial king of the south part of Ulster, 
and left Ireland in 1016, taking refuge in Scotland, and landing 
with some attendants on the northern coast of Argyllshire, near 
the Lennox country. 

After a short period of time he was introduced to King Mal¬ 
colm II., and taken into his service to fight against the Danes, 
who were then harassing the country. Prince Anselan or Ause¬ 
lan, as the name came to be written (a u taking the place of an 
n), so distinguished himself at different battles that King Malcolm 
gave him the greater part of the estate of Buchanan in Stirling¬ 
shire, on the north side of Lochlomond, along with other lands, 
in reward for his achievements. 

Gilbert, the eighth laird, was the first who assumed the name 
of Buchanan, though he and some of his successors seem to have 
used their ancient surname as their humour and inclination led 
them. John, the twelfth laird, had three sons, the eldest of whom, 
Sir Alexander MacAuselan, greatly distinguished himself at the 
battle of Bauge in France, where he killed the English leader, 
the Duke of Clarence. Several of the family attained the honour 
of knighthood when it was more difficult to attain than it is now 
in these piping times of peace; and one of them, Patrick, the 
sixteenth laird, who, with a great many of his name, was killed 
at the battle of Flodden, was married to a daughter of the Earl of 
Argyll. 

Tradition gives an account of one MacBeth, Baron MacAuselan; 
a person of uncommon stature and strength, who lived in the 
time of King Pvobert III, 


LUSS. 


jU Jj O 

John, the twenty-second and last laird of Buchanan, died in Dec., 
1682, and the estate of Buchanan, after having continued 665 
years in the M c Auslane or Buchanan family, became transferred 
to the Marquis of Montrose. 

For a long period the M £ Auslanes seem to have been located 
chiefly in the neighbourhood of Luss, and in the ancient church¬ 
yard of that village lie the remains of many of the name. At 
one time three farms, those of Prestalloch, Stockidow and Inner- 
laurin, were owned by three brothers of the name of M c Auslane— 
Peter, James, and Humphrey. The three farms were all situated 
near each other on the lands now belonging to Sir James Colqu- 
houn, Bart.—that of Prestalloch being near to, but not quite in 
Glenfruin, and at no great distance from the banks of Lochlomond. 
Peter was great grandsire of a M £ Auslane family, several mem. 
bers of which have occupied positions of prominence and useful¬ 
ness in the departments of religion and literature. Among these 
were the Rev. Dr Alex. M £ Auslane of London; Rev. John 
M £ Auslane, Garliestown, and Wm. T. M £ Auslane, LL.D., of Glas¬ 
gow, well known as a poet and hymn writer. His only son, 
William, who died in January, 1891, a few months after having 
been licensed by the Glasgow U.P. Presbytery, gave promise of 
more than maintaining the traditional ability of the family. 

It is interesting to mention that by the mother’s side this 
family is descended from a branch of the once powerful and royal 
house of Stuart—the Stuarts of Appin. The great grandmother 
of the brothers named, who in her day was celebrated for her 
beauty, was a daughter of Stuart of Ballachulish, while her uncle, 
Colonel Charles Stuart of Ardshiel, led the Stuart clan in the 
different battles fought on behalf of Prince Charles Edward. I 
have seen an interesting account of a visit which, in the summer 
of 1890, Dr W. T. M £ Auslane, with his two daughters, paid to 
Ardshiel and different parts of Appin. This great grandmother 
was a niece of the then Marchioness of Breadalbane. 


226 


ARROCHAR. 


ARROCHAR. 

The parish of Arrochar, which embraces a goodly portion of 
north-west Lochlomondside, was for long part of Luss. After 
its disjunction therefrom, Archibald M‘Lachlan was presented as 
first minister of the charge b} 7 the patron, MacFarlane, laird of 
Arrochar, who, as only heritor within its bounds (save MacFarlane 
of Gartartan), had undertaken the burden of providing a kirk, 
manse, and glebe in the newly-erected parish. The origin of the 
name of the parish is disputed. Some say that it is derived from 
the Gaelic Arrar—a hilly country ; and other some assert it takes 
its rise from Aracliar—a measure of land. 

Since 1682 there have ministered to the parishioners in holy 
things fourteen clergymen, including the present incumbent. 

The kirk, kirkyard, and manse of Arrochar are situated at 
Tyness, about a mile south of the village. They form a beauteous 
combination, standing ’mong green fields at the base of the range 
of the rugged hills which seperate Lochlong from Lochlomond. 

Fronting the sacred edefice, the loch stretches its dark liill- 
o’ershadowed waters for many a league, and directly opposite the 
place of graves Ben Arthur, dark of hue and rugged of mien, 
towers up proudly, having as apex that weird auld carle the 
Cobbler, and these give a sublime aspect to the entrance of dreary, 
dark Glencroe. This glen has as its southerly termination the 
westerly-trending range of hills, at the feet of which lies in deep 
repose the richly wooded promontory on which Ardgarten House 
stands, the beloved Highland home of MacGregor of Glencroe, a 
native of Luss, known world-wide as the popular mine host of the 
Royal Hotel, Edinburgh. His estate, as I have been informed, 
belonged of old to the MacGregors, but these were hunted out 
of it when the clan was nameless and proscribed. Now a mem¬ 
ber of the clan Gregor has re-conquered it, and it once more owns 
a MacGregor as lord. 


ARROCHAR. 


227 


In this connection it is worthy of mention that the laird of 
Glencroe’s deceased brother, James, who erstwhile was proprietor 
of the Queen’s Hotel, Glasgow, purchased the Glengyle estate, 
Loch Katrine, a very ancient patrimony of the MacGregors, and 
in his family it still remains. 

The present kirk of the parish, which is a fine specimen of the 
Gothic architecture of its era, was built in 1847, in near proximity 
to where its predecessor stood, the ruined grey walls of which are 
still to be seen enclosing a place of sepulture, wherein, among 
others, are buried all that is mortal of the Rev. Dr. MacFarlane, 
the genial minister of the parish from 1844 to his death in 1869, 
and his great friend, Mr John M‘Nab, Arrocliar Hotel. Mr 
M‘Nab was a native of Blair Athole. He was for a long period 
the popular steward of Dumbarton steamers. In 1865 he leased the 
hotel of Arrocliar and sheep farm connected therewith. Two 
years before his decease, which occurred about seven years 
ago, he had an attack of an apoplectic nature, which en¬ 
feebled him so much that he had arranged to retire soon from 
active life and live privately at Tarbet. After a renewed attack 
of his old complaint, he quietly passed into the silent land, aged 
65. He was a much-loved, honourable man, and full of pawky 
humour. He is survived by Mrs M‘Uab, three sons and a daughter. 

Before leaving Lochlong-side for that of Lochlomond, I have 
thought it right to give a short biographical sketch of the esteemed 
minister of the parish, 

REV. JAMES DEWAR, M.A. 

The minister of Arrocliar is son of an erstwhile schoolmaster of 
that parish. Having received a good education at home, young 
Dewar was sent to the University of Glasgow to study for the 
ministry. After finishing his studies, he obtained license from 
the Presbytery of Glasgow on the 8th January, 1851. For some 
months, however, before he became a licensed preacher, he was 


ARROCHAR. 


employed as missionary under the Rev. D. Jamieson, of St. Paul’s, 
Glasgow. Mr Dewar next became assistant to the Rev. Dr. 
Norman MacLeod (old Norman), of St. Columba’s, Glasgow. After 
acting in that capacity for a short time, the Duke of Argyll pre¬ 
sented him to the church and parish of Kilmodan at the unanimous 
request of the parishioners, and he was ordained to that charge in 
September, 1851. There he continued until May, 1869, when 
his native parish became vacant, and to it he was presented 
by the late Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Mr Dewar is a good 
Gaelic scholar, and preaches with as much fluency in that 
language as he does when he is discoursing in English, so that his 
services are in request over a considerable area. 

About two miles from Arrochar, across the isthmus which 
divides Lochlomond from Loch long, and not far from the margin 
of the former, in a quiet glen amid the majesty of hills, beautiful 
for situation, there stands, near the road and immediately behind 
the Tarbet Free Church, 

BALLYIIENAN BURIAL PLACE. 

So far as is known, no chapel, down to a very recent date, ever 
stood on or near the spot to account for a place of sepulture 
being there. It is the general belief that its origin as such took 
place many centuries ago after a bloody encounter between rival 
clans, when the slain were there deposited in the bosom of 
their mother earth, all gory and clad in their tartan array. It is 
a picturesque burying place that of Ball;yhenan. 

One of the finest tombstones in the place of graves is erected 
to the memory of the late Mr M‘Pherson, Hotel Keeper, Tarbet, 
father of the present esteemed tenant of the hostelry. 

On the south-east corner of the graveyard, which exhibits in 
picturesque combination billowy mounds and quaint, moss-covered 
tombstones, there stands a grey granite monument about eight 
feet in height, surmounted by an elegant draped urn. The ground 


ARROCHAR. 


229 


in front is carefully tended by loving hands. The inscrip¬ 
tion on the tombstone runs as follows :—“ In loving memory 
of Alexander MacPherson, Tarbet, Lochlomond. Died 9th Nov., 
1861. Elizabeth, his daughter, died 29th October, 1862 ; and 
Janet Cameron, his widow, died at Stirling, 20th February, 1882. 

‘ Her children arise up and call her blessed.’ And Janet Milli¬ 
gan, wife of A. H. MacPherson, Tarbet Hotel, died on the 6th 
February, 1889, aged 41 years. C I know that my Pedeemer 
liveth.’ ‘Them also which sleep in Jesus will Cod bring with him.’ ” 

Mr Alexander MacPherson was born at Laggan, Inverness- 
shire, in 1804, his father being a farmer. After receiving a fair 
education, and doing a spell of work on his father’s farm, he began 
hotel keeping, first in Perth, then in Blair Athole. In 1854 he 
removed from thence to Tarbet Hotel, Lochlomondside, where he 
remained till his death. Mr MacPherson was a man of great push 
and energy. He was a well-read man, especially in the domain 
of history, and on literary matters corresponded, amongst others, 
with the late Sir Archibald Allison, Bart., the historian, and with 
the Messrs Blackwood, his publishers. At his death, the subject 
of this memoir was 57 years of age, and left a family of four sons, 
four daughters, and a widow, as also a host of friends, to mourn 
his departure 

It may be stated that there is a somewhat pretentious white 
marble enclosed tombstone on the west side of the place of graves, 
erected to the memory of the lairds MacMurrich of Stuckgown, 
whose history is narrated further on ; and it is also worthy of note 
that near the entrance gate There is a stone of memorial over the 
grave of a blacksmith, with a goodly sized anvil and other objects 
carved on same. 

The minister of the Free Church, incidentally noticed above, is 
one who for the last decade has taken a warm interest in the 
spiritual and temporal advancement of the people among whom 
his lot is cast. 


230 


ARROCHAR. 


REV JOHN R. ELDER 

was born at Edinburgh fifty years ago, son of Rev Dr Elder some¬ 
time Minister of St. Paul’s Church, Edinburgh, latterly of West 
Church, Rothesay. Moderator of Free Church General Assembly, 
1871. Educated at Rothesay and Edinburgh. M.A. of 
Edinburgh University. Licensed in 18G7 by Free Presbytery of 
Dunoon. Assistant atlnverurie, Aberdeenshire, and in St. Matt¬ 
hew’s Church, Glasgow. Minister of Free Church, Cromarty, for 
thirteen years. Minister of Free Church, Arrochar, since April, 
1882. The reverend gentleman, it may be stated, is a member of 
the School Board, and also of the Parochial Board of Arrochar 
Parish. 

The great historic family of Arrochar is 

THE MACFARLANES OF THAT ILK. 

The burial place of this ancient family was Luss. The land 
knoweth the family as its lord no longer. They traced their de¬ 
scent to Gilchrist, fourth son of Alwyn, Earl of Lennox, who ob¬ 
tained a grant of land in the reign of Alexander II. His son 
Duncan succeeded him, and he had a son Malduin, by his cousin 
Matilda, daughter of Malcolm, fourth Earl of Lennox. Malduin 
was father of Bartholomew, in the Gaelic Pharlan, and he in all 
probability was the chief after whom the clan was named. The 
early history of this clan is one of turbulence and bloodshed. 
Their raids, however, seem to have been more in the direction of 
harrying and harassing their more lawless northern neighbours, 
than engaging in acts of hostility against their more law abiding 
southern ones. The earliest and principal stronghold of the 
clan Farlane was situated at Inveruglas, and it being destroyed in 
Cromwell’s time, their chief had afterwards his residence at Tarbet 
and at Elian Vhow, a lonely little isle on the north end of Loch- 
lomond, where the ruins of his seat are still to be seen. Loch Sloy 
was the gathering place and slogan of the clan. On the death of 


ARROCHAR. 231 

the sixth Earl of Lennox without male issue, Malcolm MacFarlane 
became the representative of the male line of the family. He was 
son of the Bartholomew mentioned above, who, about 1344, 
obtained from his cousin Donald a confirmation of all the lands and 
liberties previously in possession of his family. His son and 
successor, Duncan, obtained a charter of the lands of Arrochar, 
and married Christian, daughter of Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow. 
There never failed the clan a chief to rule it, from that time down 
to about the end of the eighteenth century, when the estate of 
Arrochar while possessed by John MacFarlane, was brought to a 
judicial sale (in 1785), and purchased by Ferguson of Raith. John 
MacFarlane, the last clieif, had several children. 

When in Edinburgh recently, I had an hour to spare and went 
to spend it in Greyfriar’s Churchyard, my object being to visit the 
grave of the last of the MacFarlanes of that ilk. I found it easily; 
it is situated at the south west corner of old Grevfriar’s Church, 
right under the slab inserted in its wall to the memory of Allan 
Ramsay the poet. The MacFarlane memorial stone is of freestone, 
circular topped, and stands seven feet or so high. Within the 
circle the arms of the family are engraven, in bold relief, having 
over them the legend on a scroll, “This I’ll defend,” and beneath 
them the slogan of the clan “Loch Sloy.” The slabs of stone contain 
the following inscription : “ In memory of Janet MacFarlane, 
daughter of William MacFarlane of MacFarlane, Esq., died 2nd 
Dec., 1821 ; and of her niece, Margaret Elizabeth MacFarlane, 
who died May 1 2, 184G, aged seventy nine years (not twenty nine, 
as given in a local history), being at the period of her decease the 
lineal representative of the ancient and honourable house of Mac¬ 
Farlane of that ilk.” The slab containing the foregoing inscrip¬ 
tion has slipped out of its place, being parted from the monument, 
and now rests on the ground and against the stone in an upright 
position. To shew how strong the clannish feeling still exists, I 
was informed by the keeper of the graveyard that a MacFarlane, 


232 


ARROCIIAR, 


a common soldier quartered in Edinburgh Castle, came recently to 
the revered burial place with a tradesman to fix the inscription 
tablet into its original position, but to his great regret it had got 
twisted and could not be reinstated. As showing the increase of 
recent years in the value of Highland property, it may be stated 
that Ferguson of Faith in 1785 paid for the Arrochar estate the 
sum of £28,000. In 1821 it was sold to Sir James Colquhoun 
of Colquhoun and Luss, Bart., for ,£78,000. 

When the MacFarlane family began to get into pecuniary 
difficulties, the Stuckgown portion of the Gartartan property was 
disposed of, which in the course of time led to the establishment 
on Lochlomondside of 

THE MACMURRICIIS OF STUCKGOWN. 

The estate of Stuckgown was sold by Alexander MacFarlane of 
Gartartan, in 1718, to John Syme, flesher, burgess in Edinburgh. 
The property, in 1799, was acquired from his heirs by two brothers, 
John MacMurrich and Malcolm MacMurrich, merchants, Glasgow, 
who were at their decease succeeded in the ownership by their 
nephew James MacMurrich. He, in virtue of powers contained 
in a special Act of Parliament, disposed of the estate for £42,000 
to the trustees of Sir James Colquhoun, of Colquhoun and Luss, 
Bart. The Stuckgown property split up the Colquhoun estate on 
west Lochlomondside in a most tantalizing way, and the late Sir 
James left instructions in his will to buy it up at any price if it 
ever came unto the market The property for which such a long 
price was paid is an eminently attractive one. The recent laird 
of Stuckgown, who has a life-rent interest in one of the farms 
on the estate, still lives on the property. 


33 93 

























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